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I got a really good deal on a reman long airpack that was stored in some rough conditions. Most of the parts actually turned out to be in good shape but the air can Im not sure about. The spot where the piston sat developed some corrosion. I ran a fine hone through a few times but can still feel...

As part of my rear suspension rebuild I had to get a new NOS trunnion. Got it from easternsurplus and just now got to the point of getting torque rods installed. The issue I ran into is that the torque rod stud doesn't fit all the way into the trunnion (see attached pic). The stud fits into the...

Putting my rear axles back together and ran into an issue with the spring seat pads on the passenger side See the screenshot if you don't know what I'm talking about. On one side they're worn down to nothing and the spring was starting to wear down the bracket. I was able to find replacement...

I'm going to be putting my brake system back together with basically all new parts. I'm seriously considering going with DOT3/4 fluid just because it's easy to get anywhere and I don't mind flushing it every couple of years. Is there any reason to stick with DOT5 if you're basically starting...

I'm looking at the pump linked below. It looks like a much cheaper option than trying to replace the intank pump. The specs look right, but I'm not sure if there's something I'm missing. Thoughts? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0713PZ58C/

Im working on flipping the hubs and took the brake drum adapter off of one of the drums so that I could get the drum turned. After I did that I realized that the bolts holding the adapter to the drum are in pretty bad shape and I probably wont be able to reuse them. Problem is that I cant find...

Some of you probably saw my other thread about rust under the tandem plate. Got both plates off and decided to take off the spring seat assemblies to look at everything in there. Unfortunately I think I found a serious problem. Looks like the solid bearing block wore a deep groove into the...

So it looks like my M35 developed a pretty bad case of rust under the plate that attaches the tandem assembly to the frame. Im thinking that my only option is to cut off the rivets, make a new plate, and bolt everything back together. Any thoughts or suggestions before I start cutting pieces off?

So I just discovered that they now sell wireless tire pressure and temp monitoring systems that you can use on any vehicle. They just stick on your dash like a GPS. I had no idea this even existed. Going to get one for my ranger and then maybe a nicer one for the M35. Anyone already have one...

I came across these and was just wondering if they are good to go on a stock truck? Anyone used them? http://www.rockwelloffroad.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=106

My bed is off the truck and I need to know how much space there is on a stock M35 between the bed and the cab. If someone with a truck that's in one piece could measure that for me I'd really appreciate it!

I just wanted to share a few things I learned while adding bushings to my hinges. First, look over the original ODIron PDF to get the basic idea of what you're doing. Now here's what I did differently. Supplies: 5/16" cobalt bit 3/8" cobalt bit 3/32" cobalt bit (for grease fitting) #1 cobalt...

Scanned this in and thought someone might be interested.

If no matter what you do with the brake adjusters you can't get the gap down to .010 on the lower side of the shoes is it new drum time? I'm having this issue on one of my axles and I've replaced pretty much everything else.

I clipped this vent (i think) line at the air pack and like a dummy didn't take a picture or write down how it runs along the frame. Could one of you guys take a look at your trucks and help me out? Here's a picture of the line I'm talking about. http://imgur.com/tduUy46 EDIT: Looking over...

Does anyone sell replacements for the lower adjusters and the C clips that hold the shoes on? Mine are a bit loose and bending them back into shape doesn't seem to do much. Also has anyone put a flat washer under the lockwasher on the back of the adjusters? When I removed mine they dug into...

I'm referring to the plug that connects the rear harness to the front harness for example. Is there a tool to get the pins out or is there some trick to it? I've been searching the forum, but haven't found a specific thread that shows how one of these comes apart. The reason I ask is my rear...

I know the rears are riveted on, but is there any reason why I shouldn't drill out the rivets and replace them with grade 8 bolts/nuts? I'd like to clean them up and it would be easier off the truck.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the best way to deal with it? Can't reach in there to scrub it out but painting over it seems like a waste of time too since it'll just come back up again.

I just removed the wheels still attached to the hub/drum on my rear axle to replace the seals and the wheel cylinder. I didn't touch the adjusters when removing the wheel cylinder. My question is do I need to do the major brake adjustment if I'm replacing the cylinder and reusing the old pads...