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My bad experiences with taps is mostly from 80's cars in the 90's. Maybe wiring itself has improved or the taps have improved. (Like I said, the cheapo clip on ones are terrible.. posi-taps are _MUCH_ better, but I still ran into issues with them. This was mostly when I was in high school...

(on non HMMWV) I've seen problems with both posi-tap and those cheap-o blue tap connectors. Both rust due to water inflitration into the tap itself, or damage to the wire so that over time it's current carrying is reduced and the wire breaks due to heat (or may vibration or both). So I'd...

Love it when I can just reply to myself. Found it in TM 9-2320-280-24P-1 - Figure 76. It's "View A - part 2".. 5935011495165 - 7N9738 and apparently it's a pretty common connector! Now to pickup both a male and female version and verify it fits.. then I can build a harness for a tach. Edit...

I'm considering adding a tach to my HMMWV, but don't want to cut any of the existing wiring (or use taps). Looking at the pulse tach on the back of the engine, I should be able to just move it to my own wiring _IF_ I can find the right connectors. Does anyone happen to know what the...

LOL the local Wrestling event ended up using the HMMWV for one of the wrestlers to “arrive” in. Apparently was a huge hit with the crowd.

Got my rapco 383 green just in time. Next parade is tomorrow and I wanted to clean up the bed for the people who have to sit there. At some point I’ll take out the cargo divider and paint it as well, but no time tonight.

My feel, the vendors need to list if it's an actual domestic part or not. There are some vendors I only buy from occasionally "when I don't care". But for the most part Kascar and Mac Motors are my go-to places.

Pretty typical to buy enough (IC) parts for US gov't orders and warehouse them. Then you can get a waver on 'made in the US', if you can show sufficient supply. (And as you said, there is the intel part of it as well to deal with, but can be addressed.). Just remember as you buy parts, use...

I missed this post back in July, but it's a good idea. On my RX-8 same problem. On the side you couldn't tell someone had the blinkers on. A quick wiring change (since side blinker is required in Japan), and suddenly people can see you are making a lane change, turning a corner, etc. A lot...

I assume bolt pattern, input shaft/torque converter, need to match the Detroit Diesel. So be aware that any old 6 speed won't necessarily "fit" without some sort of adapter.. maybe multiples. There was another thread in the hotrod section talking about putting in a a 6-speed. Might be a good...

Any idea if the core is _really_ different then the CIV pump? Or is it just a higher tension bi-pass spring to keep the pressure up. (I'm assuming it would be different if it's higher pressure AND higher flow then a standard one.)

As far as I know, as a civilian you aren't allowed to buy it. I've seen a lot of people using rapco products as well as other that are colorwise the same, just not 'CARC'.

(looking at the pictures more closely.. It appears to be a civilian H1 made into a limo and then painted camo with military tires. The little bit of dash I can see looks like an H1.. and the front/back both have center marker lights like an H1.) So ANYWAY, back to the original thread. I was...

https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/32465/one-example-from-the-armys-tiny-fleet-of-stretch-limo-like-humvees-is-still-soldiering-on No rainbow or swimming pool........

On my M998 I was able to find a replacement set of seatbelts (3-pt) for the front of mine on ebay. (NOS, all tags matched the ones I replaced exactly..) New Universal 3 Point Seat Belt Lap/Shoulder Adjustable U.S. Made M998 HUMVEE https://www.ebay.com/itm/175305595939 I bought from this...

I went out and took a picture. With the 200 AMP generator the top of the reservoir cap is hidden pretty good. To fill it you need a long neck funnel, also be careful to not OVER fill! (The manual has specifications on how to check the level. I don't remember offhand if it's check the level...

(posted to the wrong thread.. ignore me)

The reservoir is most likely on the hydraulic pump itself. Look straight down between the generator and the hose coming off the radiator. You should see a cap right on the pump. That is where you need to add fluid and keep it topped off. I looked and I only have a picture of the pump from...

it's the open/closed end (closed is what matters). Basically slightly less the 1/4" plug is what is needed. Likely I'll end up getting some of the Caplug T-0 as they seem to be the best match I've found.