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If it has a John Deere 6068 or 6090 engine they are light years ahead of anything Caterpillar had to offer.

Use this as a reference: Bottom end noises (crankshaft speed) - Top end noises (1/2 crankshaft speed) -

You have a misfire. These engines are normally very smooth at idle, you're is shaking. The frequency is wrong to be a rod knock, it's too slow. I think you'll find your problem is under a valve cover. You can crack injector lines to identify the suspect cylinder. In this case you should see no...

If you can find a newer 6.5 diesel truck they have porcelain terminals. The Packard 56 terminal inside the porcelain holder can be removed and replaced. I installed them on my truck. These fit 1/4 inch spades.

Use the NAPA part number listed above. It's the safest route. Do not confuse it with a starter solenoid that comes in the same package or you will fry your glow plug controller.

Look at the terminals on your current glow plugs. If they are 1/8 inch wide, you will want to run the 13g plugs. If they are quarter inch wide, you will want to run the 60g plugs. If you want to run 60g plugs for the self-regulating, you can cut the connectors off your existing wiring and...

The solvent carried paints have a funny recoat window. You can recoat within 30 minutes or after 24 hours. If you recoat inside that window the solvent in the new coat will soften the prior coat and the paint will get all wrinkly.

That truck would be worth $6-7k out here in California. If the rust level is low.

Don't mix those two things. The sodium hydroxide in drain cleaner degreases everything. It's then rinsed and then dipped phosphoric or sulfamic acid to remove oxides. If there is any oil on the surface at all, the acid won't make contact and won't clean. You could also consider putting it in...

Its a 1977 Dodge W20 with a 318 engine and 727 transmission, the drivetrain parts are all readily available. You're going to have to go through the same routine you would with any 46 year old vehicle; renew seals gaskets, and hoses. Carburetor rebuilds are routine maintenance.

Don't use lock washers if you don't need them. They provide a moisture path to the threads of the bolts and cause seized fasteners. Locking compounds work better if you think they need them. Wedge lock type washers are for high temperature where compounds don't work.

Excess idling will plug a cat. The turbo outlet o-ring does age over time but it requires a lot of hours to do unless maybe the truck was parked in the desert. I put a silicone o-ring on mine. -408 was the size. A dab of PTFE grease makes it assemble and disassemble easily.

You need to replace the filter. The sediment in the bowl isn't clogging it.

If it's down on power and surging start with the fuel filter.

The truck will take any engine you throw at it. The challenge is finding an accessory rack that will support the dual alternators. You can buy 6.5 NA GEP engines but I assume you don't like the price tag. Those will work with your existing accessory rack. I'm putting a center mount turbo engine...

Got the doghouse fabricated. I used corrugated posterboard and hot glue to make the shape. 3/4 inch clearance around everything. I hope that's enough when the engine flexes in its mounts. Used 1"x3/16 Nomex tape to make the flange. The rest of it is lightweight woven roving and West System. No...

Detroits with a hydraulic governor go to the no fuel position when there is no oil pressure (engine not running). The older Detroit Diesel engines had a fixed fuel rack that contributed to the runaways. When an injector fails and gets stuck, that cylinder stops firing but the stuck injector...

Can you put the drain plug from your new housing in the old one? Otherwise, you're going to have to thread the hole and install a set screw with some permanent Loctite.

2-stroke oil is the best fuel stabilizer you can get. Mix it up 50:1. Those old engines won't know the difference. Use the good synthetic stuff for dirt bikes, it's low ash.

The other question is why do you need to replace your housing?