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Could be anything leaking. Fuel and oil or just oil. Fuel will wash the valley and rear main seal area and make it look like oil. But rear main seal is also possible. Also how well were the heads cleaned and the valve covers prepared before the valve covers were resealed? The valve covers have a...

I am hoping in 2021. I should work faster but I hate sanding and bodywork in the cold. Working in a 115 year old barn with an electric heater just don't cut it when it is below freezing. Insulation is needed.

That door and fender are basically scrap. But I would get them functional and live with it. I drove an M1009 for 10 years that didn't have a straight panel on it. It didn't make it run and drive any better then a perfect one. That is functional and patina of a battle wagon. Maintained all stock...

Top picture down a little lower on the rear side of the head behind the last rear glow plug. 2 wires into 1 plug. From what I see it looks like a clean truck.

I think it looks great. It has character and patina. And top of that it has CARC TAN paint and will last a lifetime. It is a battle wagon and mainly needs some TLC and some true to the book maintenance. Remember it is a 1984. They are selling 2021 models now and that makes that M1009 37 years...

Just take a look at the right side of the engine towards the rear of the head. There is a sensor there that sometimes gets loose and shorts out. i am not an electrical genius but I had a similar issue many years ago and found that plug was melted and the cause of my issues. Not a positive but...

Well if I had to say there is a difference I would say only a few internal parts. But i have run them equally hard and never had any failures. Under the valve covers the earlier ones had cast rockers and the later years had stamped rockers with nylon keepers. No show stopper. i never had any...

I went and looked at a CUCV 6.2 engine I have as a spare. I think you need these parts/studs/bolts. Easy fix. Go to the hardware store and get a short section of threaded M10 1.5 metric rod and a 4 M10 1.5 nuts. Flange nuts if they have them. Make your own studs and they will work fine. The...

And just like that the rear cab roof seal was off and I see nothing bad This is an area I have overlooked in the past. I have been challenged installing these seals and I have tried every trick in the book. Seems that nothing fits like the original. I may just clean up the original and reinstall...

I was highly motivated this AM. I finished my Honda wood hauler, filled the bird feeders and emptied my shop of all other pieces of equipment but the M1009. And look at 1000 the windshield is out and I have completed my goal. If only I were strong enough to carry the fiberglass roof. The...

I cleaned up the 4WD shifter housing and undercoated the bottom side and the lever. I will grease and oil everything and reassemble it before I install it. It is a little more complex that just a lever. it has a spring and bushings and will shift nice when everything is cleaned , greased and...

As I was down in the barn working I decided I wanted to clean and undercoat the under side of the floor tunnel where the transmission area is. I removed the 4WD shifter and disassembled it. I know how easy they are supposed to work and this one was a bit tight. The floor area above the...

Don't the coolant crossover manifold have the same stud/bolts? And the rear ones have them and they are not used. Let me know I can help here.

I am going to remove the 4WD shifter so I can undercoat the underside and clean and lube the shifter mechanism. I also will move the 4WD light wiring to the outside so it does not have to travel on the topside of the floor. I have the body mounts, motor mounts and rear transmission mounts. I...

More pictures for review. Not sure why the small hole was in the drip edge. Had a piece of mechanics wire twisted in it. Possible antenna hold downs. Both antenna brackets were torn off the body. Left side was horribly torn.

My thread slipped to the second page. I must be a slacker. I worked a full 9 hour day and came home with a small amount of energy left. Enough to remove the rear fiberglass top and slide it back for close examination of the pinch weld area and examine the seals. I very much dislike the M1009...

Also keep this in mind. The 6.2 diesel has metric M10 x 1.5 treads in the block for the starter. I know as a fact that 3/8 16 bolts will fit in and get semi tight. But they are NOT correct also the support bracket that goes in the block is M8 1.25 metric thread. Don't jam a 5/16 18 bolt in that...

You just need them studs?

This is the way I route the heater hoses. IMHO it is better than the factory method. The factory just used the same routing as the civilian models and that ran the hoses under the rear battery tray and exposed them to rub points. Good Luck. The P clips are available at a hardware store.