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I suppose you could, but the wire is pretty simple. Just get some 18 or 20ga galvanized wire. Pretty easy to do. My bolts are a flat head screwdriver, not a hex head, so thread lock might be too much to get back out if needed.
I made an external air line to my air system so I can pull air while truck is running (yes, I have a glad hand too), or pump the system up while the truck is off. I pumped it up and tracked down a couple leaks that I could finally hear without the motor running. Also cycled the CTIS system down...
I just put mine on from him, works and looks nice. I would also recommend heated seats, they make a world of difference.
I did order some black anodized button snaps to replace the silver ones that came with the kit.
https://a.co/d/f92ZBFc
Also, here is the seat heater kit I installed...
What are the 8.3's supposed to run at? Mine gets to about 165 and stays there. Don't think I have ever even had my fan kick on; but I just drive around town unloaded.
Looks like it is a 6CTA from the engine tag. I did hear a rumor that the power was turned up from this number due to the extra weight of the ROPS cab. Not sure how true that is.
Interesting. I ordered a 6CTA block heater, and also followed this guide:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/adding-a-block-heater-and-coolant-filter-on-6cta-8-3.131589/
Everything seemed to be the same. Maybe in the 2011 rebuild something changed?
Since the truck is still fairly new to me, I have been doing things to make it suit me better. Biggest one is a complete coolant flush. Added a coolant filter and block heater while the coolant was out, plus a stick on oil pan heater. Also put in a battery maintainer and cut off switch since the...
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