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You can see the batteries and how they look in stalled here - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-831a-troubleshooting.134803/page-4#post-1667559
You'll want to grab the Technical Manual from the manual section of the forum and do a bit of quick reading to get up to speed on how these things work.
If you have power at the receptacle but not the lugs (assuming you flipped the switch) you need to troubleshoot the circuit that energizes...
Paralleling for this generator would have to be a feature built into the inverter. The engine speed has no effect on output frequency. That is good and bad. Good since we can run the engine at a RPM to give good power and fuel burn characteristics for a specific load. Bad because now its not so...
You shouldn't damage the multi-turn pots by turning them too far. The adjuster will just slip off the threads at the end. They have a little spring clip to keep it pushed up against the treads so it will catch when you turn it back the other way.
The real issue is knowing when that has happens...
http://www.governors-america.com/documents/PIB1007%20A%20SLC100%203%20kW%20Gen%20Set.pdf
There is the setup for the governor. You can ask them about buying a new one.
For sure switch them out as a test. You can buy new ones for a few hundred dollars. They have recently become available.
You can adjust the magnet. That is not likely your problem. Get the surging under control first. Then tweak the magnet only if it doesn't shut down correctly.
Take a look at this:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye_penetrant_inspection
See if you mechanic had a dye kit. If not you can get it pretty reasonably online.
Its good that the cracks don't appear to go all the way though. A dye test will let you see cracks that are coming that you can't...
Its hard to tell how severe those are. My gut is that they aren't terminal.
Do you have the stuff to do a dye test? To see if there are other micro cracks.
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