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Lithium’s will work. You’ll want to use iron phosphate flavor with a BMS since they will work better voltage wise in place of SLA batteries. If you are running on DC input and the batteries are mostly discharged the unit may not start until their charge comes up some.

I'll add that it will NOT run on the DC power input with out the batteries. Only the AC power input.

It will run fine without the batteries so long as the power supply is OK.

I verified mine would run with the batteries disconnected on AC power. Also verified in the manual that it indicates it will run on AC input power without batteries but it will not run on DC input power without batteries.

If I'm able to get out to the shop today I'll test mine and let you know. I'm pretty sure they will not run on the DC cord without the batteries but I don't know if I've ever tried it with the AC cord.

I posted the data sheet for the compressor earlier up this thread. The type and quantity of oil is listed on it. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/acutemp-refrigerator.175687/post-2113620

I hightly doubt they have removed all the oil. That would be a real job. Is there the single vampire tap on the refer line or did they do something more significant to the one you bought?

You can power the unit from 12-28V DC. There is a connector for that. Make sure you get the cable. I power mine in the field from either solar panels or from the trailer plug on the back of my truck. Works great.

They may work with LiFe batteries. Will still need a BMS but its doable.

Ug. Not a good spot to try and braze a TEE and Schrader valve.

Did they tap the stub or one of the actual supply/return lines?

It sayes in the service manual if im not mistaken that it is not serviceable. Obviously that doesn't mean it can't be serviced.

There are no connectors if its like mine. Just a crimped stub.

Take some photos if you don't mind. Are you going to do a nitrogen purge first? Attaching fittings?

Sounds like you are on the right track. I would recommend taking the batteries out to charge them. If something happens and they vent you don't want that to happen inside the unit.

I need to replace my batteries but I haven't yet since its not camping season here. I'll share what I find out when I do. I may go with some lithium batteries though since I have a bunch. Not as simple as the SLA batts since the lithium need a controller to keep them from catching fire. The...

I've done a lot of testing around the house and they perform very well. My summer camping plans were canceled due to work commitments so I've not been able to do a real test and enjoy some chocolate ice cream next to the lake. :)

Ah. ok. Yea, those are readily available in a bunch of different flavors.

That isn't likely to exist as a ready to buy part. You'll need to take a DC cable and put a connector on it.

I'm going to cross reference the connectors to the MIL spec pinout diagrams at the link below. Hopefully they are there. http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/wiringdevices/interconnect/Resources/Literature/Eaton_D38999_Series_III.pdf