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I would think so. There are about 1 million part numbers for that meter.

And now to one last,(I hope) post to this thread. The cut wire. Been thinking about this a bit. There could be several reasons for this. But must likely is, the MEL. Whats MEL. Going to set my instructors hat on here. Maintenance Expenditure Limit. I think the MEL comes out every year. The MEL...

Take care of bizness partner! When you are ready, we can go farther. Hope the well problem isn't anything tough.

Back reporting for duty SIR, Colonel SIR!! OK. Now when the gen set is cold, go around to the left side, and open the front door. In between the side of the gen set and the radiator, you SHOULD see a handle. When you push it down, it SHOULD spring right back up. The manual shutter control is...

Kris, Great job finding that wire! That is one of the hardest faults to find. And from the look of it, yes a cut wire. Makes you want to break someone's fingers. Yeah, that's a stumper. What washers on the IP are you talking about? For the injector lines? If so, there is supposed to be two per...

OK, If you find the fault and can fix it, do so. Then start that bad boy up!! Remember, hold S2 up until the volts and hertz meter come up. Then let S2 go. If the volts and hertz do not come up, after 5-10 seconds, let S2 go. If it stays running, let her rip for 1-1.5 hour. Charges the battery...

OK, if you use the bulbs so the over speed light and reverse power light sockets are empty, but the rest good, that's good enough for today. Lets find the fault first.

So have you. Your legs must be 5 CM shorter from all the walking!

Also, have you replaced the bad lights in the A9? Thats got to be done before we go much farther.

Disconnect the wire from the IP to ground, and try and start it. JUST TO PROVE ITS THE PROBLEM. If it dosn't start, disconnect wire P55X. Unhook C-Plug P5 from the SP/relay box. Find pin S. Use a m-Meter, set for ohms. Test for continuity between pin S and the other end of wire P55X. Got...

Start it! run it for 15-20 seconds!

Take a wire, go from the other terminal, where wire number P55X is hooked to the IP. Connect the wire there, and connect the other end to a good ground. Try starting again.

OK. now take out the jumpers, hook up the J37 and do the very same test. P80N to ground. If you get 24VDC, hook up the P80N to the IP. Then look to your left and up top to the last Injector line. Take a 7/8 wrench, (I think that's the size) and crack the line. Just loosen it a turn or 1.5 turns...

Should look just like this one. Why is the wire there? well, there are three models of this gen set. The Utility, (yours) the Precise 60 hertz model, and the Precise 400 hertz model. Your model has no governor. The other two do. The Electric governor, controls the engine speed by telling an...

OK. You got 24VDC at the G&H jumper in start. THAT'S GOOD! Now if the batteries are charged, I want you to test at the IP. Leave the jumpers in P37 C-Plug. Go to the IP, and remove wire P80N. Test VDC, nothing else. Not continuity or anything else, as VDC is what we are looking for. From ground...

Check at the G&H jumper for 24 VDC, while someone tries to start it.

fat lady sings

P47A goes to terminal 5. It should be hot. When you put the S2 in the start position, the S2-5 makes contact with S2-6, wire P45B. Thats the terminal you want, not S2-9. The schematic shows the numbers upside down, or so faded you cant read them! I am beginning to hate this crap. Way to many...

Yes. Have someone start it, and test at S2-9. Got VDC?, Good. Then have someone try and start it again, while you test at the G&H jumper. Got VDC?

At the S2-9, yes. It turns into several other wire numbers, until it comes out at J37G. Then it P47J.