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I agree with Scoobyshep. I don't trust that alternator setup, but maybe it's just because I'm not familiar with it.
Aftermarket AVR's can be had cheap.
That SX460 is still available ( Chinese knock off ) for $20 all over the internet.
You could probably buy 4 or 5 of them for less than the Delco...
Sounds like you have already decided what you want to do for control system, but if things change, I wonder if this gen would be a good candidate for an SX-460 AVR?
I've used them a few times on different military gens and they have worked well every time.
Excellent news! Keep making progress. Check your oil level now, then check it again after you have run it a little bit.
Keeping an eye out for an increase in oil level and the smell of diesel in the oil.
If the level stays constant then your umbrella seals are good. If the level starts to rise...
Once you have it installed, I would hook up the fuel line and leave the returns disconnected for now.
fill the day tank and let it drain into the pump housing to push out most of the air and fill up the pump.
With the returns connected it can be had to get fuel to drain into the pump body...
Don't pull the shaft out, just put the 2 new seals on the shaft. make sure they are oriented correctly. Then grease them up good like Guy mentioned. Then slowly slide the pump over the shaft. You will probably need to use a small pick or screwdriver to get the first seal started into the pump...
2 other things you can try on the delivery valve... although the tool is already on order....
Take a rubber glove and wrap it around the entire rotor, then use electrical tape or duct tape, wrap it up good and tight.
This is to seal off all the holes machined into the rotor.
Then if you have a...
On the delivery valve I don't think you can access it from the other end, but maybe I'm wrong. If you can access it go easy with it, don't want to damage the point on the end. But if the other end was open I would imagine that would defeat the whole function of the rotor and pistons, but maybe...
Yea that screw is very tight. I've used both torx on a ratchet and a small impact wrench.
Just be sure to hold it straight so the doesn't try to move sideways on you.
I don't recall what the proper name is for that head, but as a last resort you could get the actual bit for it, if you're worried...
Correct, you have them in the right order.
Be careful not to drop or loose the dished cups on the top of them, they are just sitting there.... not attached at all.
The power piston is currently all the way in, so you could safely grab it with a pair of curved jaw pliers, twist and pull ( after...
In the last picture, left is the Passive one, right is the active power piston.
Left has a spring inside, right may not because it operated using hydraulic pressure created by the pump to pus outward on that ball stud to advance the timing as RPM increases.
Out of curiosity is it the "Idler" ( forget what the TM calls the passive one ) side that's stuck, or the power piston / active side?
I believe the internal components are slightly different.
Sounds like you are finding all sorts of issues! Something tells me the pistons will be stuck in the...
For now I would leave the fuel inlet screen as an assembly. I don't think the kit comes with anything other than new o-rings, so just clean it out with spray carb clean and don't disassemble any further just yet, wait until you have the kit.
It has a check valve inside it, so make sure it is...
Yea, all those little particles are not helping anything... clean it up, then disassemble.
Once you get down to the final part... the pump head and the 2 little piston plungers, if the plungers are stuck in the head, that is the #1 cause of not getting any fuel out of the pump.
Yet another TM ambiguous mistake??
The way I have always done it is set the motor as you did, at 20*
Verify marks in the IP window are aligned.
Remove the pump.
Do not touch or rotate the engine!
Rebuild the pump and align the marks when finished rebuilding.
Reinstall the IP with the IP marks...
You are in the right spot.
Whenever the timing marks in the IP window are aligned you are at the correct spot, not 180* off.
The IP turns 1/2 the speed of the motor so you can only be off 180* by looking at the timing mark on the motor only ( in which case the IP marks would be 180* off.
With...
On the IP, no other tools needed in my opinion unless you happen to have tamper resistant Penta screws in the top cover or rear pump cover.
Since you already had the top off, we know you are good there, but I once had an 005 with tamper resistant Penta ( 5 sided instead of 6 like a hex key )...
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