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That is looking real good !

It's coming along ! Remember, even small progress is progress ! Those brackets are looking good !

Well It would hide any oil leaks ! :-D

That is why I only install complete engine assemblies which include the transmission when modifying from factory. I learned that lesson the hard way decades ago.

That weight I quoted did not include the bellhousing , shift tower or even the flywheel. These transmissions where the first so they didn't know what would break or what could be made from aluminum. We now know the whole housing can be made from aluminum, but back then who knew ? That is one...

Oh come on now. The basic transmission only weighs in at 435 Ibs. Add the deep cast iron oil pan and cooler and that bumps it up another 100 Ibs. Then of course there is the two speed splitter on the back. I don't know how much that weighs in at but I would guess at least 200 Ibs. So that means...

If you decide not to use the old Hydra-Matic transmission, I would be interested in buying it. I also hope you can free-up that block ! It would be great if you could reuse the old pistons.

Before you break the crankshaft bolt try and remove the pistons. You should be able to pound them out with a wood dowel from the bottom. I've done this many times in the past. Use lots of LPS or equivalent in the cylinders. Then see if the crank will move. It won't matter if you bugger up the...

It's funny that your thinking that way. At first I was going to go totally mechanical, but I needed to control the electric radiator fans, (I haven't finished that part yet, though I have all the parts now) and that required an electric switch. I almost used an old IHC dual fuel control switch...