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M1010 DUVAC Removal Plan "B"

Mad Texan

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I proceeded with installing my alternators today... I did not remove all the wiring for the DUVAC yet, but I plan to. I did Ohm wires out and disconnected power and ground to the blue box as well as where it fed into the 12v bus. I'm still waiting on a few things but I made a dry run to check operation. Before starting I checked individual voltages, 12.4 front battery and 12.7 rear battery. After starting front battery was 13.6 and both were 27.8. After running for a while the front voltage was at 14 and both were at 28.1.

I did find that the voltage at the stator taps on the lower alternator was higher than what I should have for a tach reading. I checked the voltage on the upper alternator stator taps and they were good. So I moved the brown diagnostic wire to the upper alternator as that is what I am using inside the truck for a tach signal. Seems to be working although I am going to adjust it a little at idle.

All in all... a successful day! I updated the diagram I made above... proceed at your own risk... YMMV
 

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m38inmaine

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Looks good, I sold the original "Plan B" truck a couple of weeks ago, he drove from Maine back to CA without issue, a testament to it's reliability. I never had any problems as well, glad to see this M1010 cure is living on to help others.
 

Recovry4x4

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I will second the motion. Shortly after ChevyC-60 completed his truck, it became my truck. The system works flawlessly. Still have the truck.
 

Mad Texan

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Looks good, I sold the original "Plan B" truck a couple of weeks ago, he drove from Maine back to CA without issue, a testament to it's reliability. I never had any problems as well, glad to see this M1010 cure is living on to help others.
I will second the motion. Shortly after ChevyC-60 completed his truck, it became my truck. The system works flawlessly. Still have the truck.
A testament to great minds and good execution! Thanks to all for sharing and allowing us to enjoy these vehicles further!
 

Mad Texan

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A while back I did finish removing the DUVAC wiring as I know I'll never go back. After working on cars for years, finding a random bundle of wires taped off can be troublesome for someone unfamiliar and can cause hours $$$ of diagnostics. Just some photos of the operation...
 

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Another Ahab

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A while back I did finish removing the DUVAC wiring as I know I'll never go back. After working on cars for years, finding a random bundle of wires taped off can be troublesome for someone unfamiliar and can cause hours $$$ of diagnostics. Just some photos of the operation...
It is troublesome (isn't it?!), even for someone FAMILIAR with electrical issues:

- Raised as a "Wood Butchering" carpenter, I was always mystified and stymied by electrical work

- Never liked it because my go-to solution to most problems encountered was (and still is), a wrecking bar

That doesn't do much good when you're up against wiring.



So, Mad Texan, you are clearly a man of real patience and uncommon intelligence:

- How does one systematically tackle that kind of spaghetti pile?!!
 

Mad Texan

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Location
Chester County, PA
It is troublesome (isn't it?!), even for someone FAMILIAR with electrical issues:

- Raised as a "Wood Butchering" carpenter, I was always mystified and stymied by electrical work

- Never liked it because my go-to solution to most problems encountered was (and still is), a wrecking bar

That doesn't do much good when you're up against wiring.

So, Mad Texan, you are clearly a man of real patience and uncommon intelligence:

- How does one systematically tackle that kind of spaghetti pile?!!
Systematically, there was a wrecking bar that was required to cut off the factory sheath that both bound and protected the wires, a razor blade. Once it was cut off it was just removing the wires no longer in use. Sometimes that was like untangling Christmas lights, but I wanted an end result that left no evidence of the DUVAC charging system. Once it was removed, just recovering the wires and protecting them, I added loom along the passenger valve cover and secured it like the drivers side. The replacement charging system that @m38inmaine and @ChevyC60 pioneered is simple and reliable. I have a binder on the truck that has M1010 pertinent information including a diagram for the charging system now.

I actually enjoy doing wiring. When it's somewhat organized it's easy to diagnose, but when it's a rats nest... :eek:
 

SandM1010

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Systematically, there was a wrecking bar that was required to cut off the factory sheath that both bound and protected the wires, a razor blade. Once it was cut off it was just removing the wires no longer in use. Sometimes that was like untangling Christmas lights, but I wanted an end result that left no evidence of the DUVAC charging system. Once it was removed, just recovering the wires and protecting them, I added loom along the passenger valve cover and secured it like the drivers side. The replacement charging system that @m38inmaine and @ChevyC60 pioneered is simple and reliable. I have a binder on the truck that has M1010 pertinent information including a diagram for the charging system now.

I actually enjoy doing wiring. When it's somewhat organized it's easy to diagnose, but when it's a rats nest... :eek:
Nice work I was thinking about cleaning up the wiring also, but sometimes I think maybe a future owner will want to go back to stock. I think it would be a bad idea but you never know. In the end I will probably do the same one day and just save all the wiring along with the box just in case.
 

Mad Texan

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Nice work I was thinking about cleaning up the wiring also, but sometimes I think maybe a future owner will want to go back to stock. I think it would be a bad idea but you never know. In the end I will probably do the same one day and just save all the wiring along with the box just in case.
I’ve seen several say the same about going back to stock, I guess if it’s all there and pristine I could see saving it. My DUVAC wiring was hacked with splices and wire nuts and honestly I don’t know if it worked at all when I got the truck. The charging system in the M1010’s seems to have been flawed from day one while the M1008’s and M1009’s are reliable. The same debate can be said about keeping 24v or converting to 12v only.
 

greenmachine001

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Recently, I acquired an M1010 with intermittent charging issues. I went through and cleaned all of the charging system connections, then reading about all the issues with the stock DUCAV system (and wanting a reliable charging system), I decided to start with m38inmaine's "Plan B", removed the DUVAC and associated wiring, then replaced the top alternator with a 12 volt unit. Afterwards, I discovered the bottom 28 volt alternator wasn't charging at all, and neither was the 28 volt alternator I removed from the top. So rather than taking a chance on rebuilding the 28 volt alts, I went and did the ChevyC60 modification (post #11). Using identical 12 volt isolated ground alternators, I wired one (top alt) to the front battery, and the other (bottom alt) wired to the rear battery. So, now I get 14.21 at the front battery and 14.17 at the rear battery.
Voltmeter is back in the green and all is well.
Next step is to replace the battery terminals.
This Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper does a superb job as well!
Hey man sorry to wake up an ancient post but any way you could share the part numbers off the alternators you used and maybe post some pics of the back of them for how you have them wired? Thanks!
 

Mad Texan

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Hey man sorry to wake up an ancient post but any way you could share the part numbers off the alternators you used and maybe post some pics of the back of them for how you have them wired? Thanks!
I believe we've all used this alternator in this thread: Leece Neville (110-555JHO) 12v 160A 1 wire self exciting alternator.

And here is a diagram for wiring:
1701094500867.png
 
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