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Repairing Jerry can Holes/Leaks Help

Corvette1974

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Upper Black Eddy, PA
Hello.

I recently got a military jerry can for free. It is a USMC model made in 5/94 (the year and month I was born). It has many leaks and holes in the bottom, the largest being about 3/8 inch long. I would like to repair this can if possible. The holes are too big to use a liquid sealer, and I think welding is my only option. I tried brazing it with a propane torch and silver solder but with no success (the solder wouldnt stick/wick....it just beaded off). What am I doing wrong there?

I was thinking I could just weld up the holes, is that possible with a wire feed flux core hobart 140 welder? I'm by no means an experience welder but I have done some pretty good jobs on thick metal in the past.

Lastly, I could bring it to a welding shop to fix it? Would that be economical and would it be easier to just cut the whole bottom off and take out like 1/2 inch and weld a new whole bottom on?

I realize I could just get a new one, but they arent very cheap anymore, and I like a good project! If I can get it fixed it will be used for diesel fuel.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,
Will
 

Jimc

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Mullica, nj
If it has Lot of holes then the bottom is pretty much shot. Would prob be easier and better to just weld a new bottom on. For a fuel tank you need to have clean and pure welds oherwise youll have pinholes in the weld that will leak. Flux core isnt really gonna do it. If you have gas for your mig then it can be done but a tig welder would be better for the job. The can needs to be super clean. Any residue on the metal will cause havoc with your welds. Ultimately it will be better for you to find another can.
 

zebedee

conceptualizer at large
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Will... my 2c :-
I recently got a military jerry can for free.
ok - so you aren't out any $$$ - remember this point...


It is a USMC model made in 5/94 (the year and month I was born).
seems more sentimental than usefull at this point...
It has many leaks and holes in the bottom, the largest being about 3/8 inch long.
Many holes - not just one so probably other holes ready to blow through - complete bottom could be 'thinned' by corosion...

I would like to repair this can if possible. The holes are too big to use a liquid sealer, and I think welding is my only option. I tried brazing it with a propane torch and silver solder but with no success (the solder wouldnt stick/wick....it just beaded off). What am I doing wrong there?
sounds like chemical contamination/cleanliness issue - there is probably a protective coating that needs to be removed... But solder is an option for the smaller 'pin' holes

I was thinking I could just weld up the holes, is that possible with a wire feed flux core hobart 140 welder? I'm by no means an experience welder but I have done some pretty good jobs on thick metal in the past.
Prep - cleanliness - prep - cleanliness etc., etc. Ge the picture!!

Lastly, I could bring it to a welding shop to fix it? Would that be economical and would it be easier to just cut the whole bottom off and take out like 1/2 inch and weld a new whole bottom on?
yes but at $40 - $60 / hr (???) is it really worth it ****. To cut and add a new bottom (of plate?) will destroy it's "originality" which is contrary to the 'sentimental' point from above.

I realize I could just get a new one, but they arent very cheap anymore, and I like a good project! If I can get it fixed it will be used for diesel fuel.
Just for diesel *** then why not get a plastic one?

It is only really appropriate to "restore" it if you need it for a similarly restored vehicle so you have operationally age related kit.
If you need a diesel can for your yard tractor (??) then a plastic one would be simpler.
If you want the "good project" then go for it - what can be the worst that happens - it leaks and you keep it "looking nice" and sentimental but don't use it - you aren't out anything but time and 'welding' materials.

It all depends on what your end use is - vehicle restoration or just a fuel can......

Thanks Jimc - I type too slow!I think you answered it way simpler....
 
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tennmogger

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You have a perfect candidate to convert to a Jerry Can Toolbox (Google it). That way you get to keep it and use it. There's a thread here on SS but I can't find it.
 

porkysplace

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If your refering to the "USMC" being stamped in the can it stands for the manufacturer , U.S. Metal Container .
Not the U.S. Marine Corps .
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
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18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Hello.

I recently got a military jerry can for free. It is a USMC model made in 5/94 (the year and month I was born). It has many leaks and holes in the bottom, the largest being about 3/8 inch long. I would like to repair this can if possible. The holes are too big to use a liquid sealer, and I think welding is my only option. I tried brazing it with a propane torch and silver solder but with no success (the solder wouldnt stick/wick....it just beaded off). What am I doing wrong there?

I was thinking I could just weld up the holes, is that possible with a wire feed flux core hobart 140 welder? I'm by no means an experience welder but I have done some pretty good jobs on thick metal in the past.

Lastly, I could bring it to a welding shop to fix it? Would that be economical and would it be easier to just cut the whole bottom off and take out like 1/2 inch and weld a new whole bottom on?

I realize I could just get a new one, but they arent very cheap anymore, and I like a good project! If I can get it fixed it will be used for diesel fuel.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,
Will
To make it "oil tight" without hot work you can use fiberglass as follows:

1. Grind bottom surface of can 100% (including inside surfaces of side extension).
2. Blow dust/debris from surfaces with compressed air.
3. Using cotton rag, wipe down surfaces with liberal amounts of acetone & dry surfaces with compressed air.
4. Procure/obtain about 4 sq feet of 1 1/2 oz chopped strand fiberglass cloth & a quart of resin. (Unit price cheaper by gallon but the resin has a very limited shelf life.)
5. Cut out a sheet (scissors cut) that fits the bottom shape as close as possible. Don't make it too tight...loose fit is better. This particular cloth has random pattern fiberglass strands "laminated" to form 2 layers. Carefully separate the two layers (just like a 2-layer paper towel sheet).
6. Take some of the remaining (uncut) cloth on hand and tear away a couple dozen of pieces about 2" across. These pieces will be for rolling up the edge or "flange" at the bottom. The "half layer" material will be easier to work, so take some of the large sheet remaining and tear it (into 1 layer) like you did before for the bottom pieces. These pieces should resemble snowflakes--do not cut the pieces with a scissors.
7. Mix up about a half of a small soup can of resin & hardener (aka catalyst). Using a throw-away chip brush, apply the resin to the bottom of the can. Now press the 1st piece you cut to fit on top of the resin & apply more resin until the white strands turn "clear" & there's no air bubbles. Once the first layer is done, you can add the 2nd layer and wet with resin until it completely saturated.
8. At this time you can start applying the torn pieces to overlap the bottom piece and work it up the sides. (Won't hurt if if laps over the very edge (bottom knife-edge) of the can--provided you grinded on this surface too. ) Apply the random small pieces all the way around the perimeter. Remember--the resin will start to kick (cure) in about 10 minutes or less depending on how much hardener you mixed in. You need to be working pretty fast.
9. Let this batch dry for at least 4 hours (it should be cured in less than 30 minutes).
10. Prepare the surface to do another batch by grinding/sanding any loose cloth strands or any air bubbles you see (which you shouldn't have).
11. After prepping the surfaces, blow down the dust & do a light Acetone wipe, allow to dry & then add 2 more "half-layers" of the chopped strand and more of the small random pieces around the edges.
12. When it's all done, let it cure overnight, do a water test the next day & you shouldn't have any leaks. This method will be fine for either gas or diesel.
13. Once you're done with leak test, allow to dry, do an 80 grit sanding and apply your ODG paint. Repair will last longer than the rest of the can....

A few general comments:

1. FG work can be a little messy. I use latex mechanics gloves from HF.
2. You can reuse your brush if you clean it with Acetone prior to the resin curing.
3. Lots of fumes produced--this is an outside job or in a shop with good air flow.
4. This same material & process also works great for truck beds, floor pans, trailer beds etc...obviously not OEM but if you need function over restoration, this is the ticket.
5. If you're not familiar with these materials & processes, best to practice on a piece of cardboard mocked up to resemble the can bottom....
6. All standard safety procedures apply.
7. The above instructions sound complicated but the job can be completed in two hours or less, depending on your skills & hands-on experience. This means about an hour for the 1st cycle and another hour for the 2nd cycle, including the paint work at the end.
 
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Corvette1974

Member
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Location
Upper Black Eddy, PA
Thanks for all of the advice and information! So welding shop - Too expensive and not worth it. USMC - Got it!

I could fiberglass is - I have done much glassing on the 'vette.....but is fiberglass fuel resistant for long term?

The toolbox is cool - My friend actually has one, it would make a cool project.

I'll look into all of this stuff. The can is just sitting in my basement half torn apart, I just dont like "projects" sitting idle especially ones that have a functional purpose / that I can learn on . But regardless.....its probably not worth it.

It was actually kinda funny. The can was in my friends garage corner and I asked if I could buy it from him. He gave it to me for free on one condition - if we could get the cap off! It was literally solid, we had to beat it with a hammer....and upon opening a literal sandstorm of rust dumped out! The can is clean inside except for the bottom, and mustve been sitting for who knows how long. Once I removed the paint the damage became aparent. Oh well......it's one of a million jerry cans out there.


Thanks for all the help,
Will
 

Jimc

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Location
Mullica, nj
Fiberglass is fuel resistant long term. They make fuel tanks out of it. The only issue in this case is polyester resin doesnt bond well to metal. I could aways peel a piece of glass off of metal fairly easily. if you did the repair, grinded the metal with 36grit then did the glass work with epoxy laminating resin it would bond to the metal much better. With all that said, clean it up paint it or something and make it a shop or garden decoration. If its that rusty it will be springing leaks left and right in places you thought were ok
 

tigger

Medic.
In Memorial
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Butler TN.
you could glass the bottom and them when it is cured put a liner in the inside. I did this with my jeep gas tank 2 years ago and no problems so far. Just make sure the liner is completely cured and dry before using.
 

Corvette1974

Member
493
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Location
Upper Black Eddy, PA
Fiberglass is fuel resistant long term. They make fuel tanks out of it. The only issue in this case is polyester resin doesnt bond well to metal. I could aways peel a piece of glass off of metal fairly easily. if you did the repair, grinded the metal with 36grit then did the glass work with epoxy laminating resin it would bond to the metal much better. With all that said, clean it up paint it or something and make it a shop or garden decoration. If its that rusty it will be springing leaks left and right in places you thought were ok
Haha Yep I forgot about that.....But I see the point of the like delamination possibility. The rust is weird - The internal coating that came on the tank is still there except for like 4 various holes and a few pinholes. I think your method will do the trick. Oh fiberglass....we meet again.

you could glass the bottom and them when it is cured put a liner in the inside. I did this with my jeep gas tank 2 years ago and no problems so far. Just make sure the liner is completely cured and dry before using.
This is an excellent idea. Ill give that a shot when I get around to doing this job.
 

Triple Jim

Well-known member
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Jimc, I know this discussion is about a can that will be used for diesel fuel, but fiberglass tanks are having trouble with the current gasoline blends. I know guys who have fiberglass gasoline tanks that are failing. The only laminating type resin I know of that holds up against gasoline now is phenolic epoxy. One type of that is sold by Caswell as a tank liner, and called phenol novolac. I imagine diesel fuel is much easier on resins, and may well not hurt ordinary epoxy or polyester.
 

Corvette1974

Member
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Location
Upper Black Eddy, PA
Jimc, I know this discussion is about a can that will be used for diesel fuel, but fiberglass tanks are having trouble with the current gasoline blends. I know guys who have fiberglass gasoline tanks that are failing. The only laminating type resin I know of that holds up against gasoline now is phenolic epoxy. One type of that is sold by Caswell as a tank liner, and called phenol novolac. I imagine diesel fuel is much easier on resins, and may well not hurt ordinary epoxy or polyester.
Hmm interesting.....It will be used only for diesel, so it shouldnt be a problem.

Honestly, if its just small pinholes, I would try brazing. It bounds well to almost any metal.
I tried using a propane torch and silver solder and it just beaded off....I was brought to my attention that it might be chemical contamination. Maybe I'll give it a shot. Regardless there are holes too big to braze.
 

Jimc

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Mullica, nj
i know this is a bit out of scope from the op and doesnt apply to diesel but...

3jim, i think the problem comes into play where you have older tanks made by these companies years ago that could get away with using regular general purpose poly resin either to cut cost or didnt know any better and now they are failing because the fuel has changed. im sure you also have new tanks being made by compaines that still either dont know any better or are trying to cut cost. either way the proper poly resin to use for fuel tanks is called hetron. its been around for years. there is no fuel nastier than race fuel. far more volatile that anything we get from the pump these days. i have a motorcycle race tank sitting in front of me now that is made with polyester and its about 6 years old and no issues even with race fuel sitting in it but being a real good race tank im sure hetron or equivalent was used on it. same goes with epoxy. there are good quality epoxies that are non novalac that hold up fantastic and there is junk resin as well that wont. there are a ton of different makes and quality. i do mods and repairs to these race tanks all the time and use west system here in the shop. its not novalac and works awesome but its a good quality resin too. in a pinch you could line a fuel tank with it if i didnt have novalac around. there is alot of cheap stuff out there that i wouldnt even think of trying. i have yet to hear of a novalac laminating resin but im a bit out of the loop on new specialty products like that.
 

Triple Jim

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Good information, thanks Jim. I'm going to pass this along to a friend of mine who makes custom bodywork and tanks for the old Kawasaki triples. He may know about Hetron already, but I've never heard him mention it. Neat stuff on your web site, by the way.
 
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Scarecrow1

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Florence , S.C.
There is a product at most auto supplies and even Walmart that's called Water Weld it is cheap at 6 dollars or so and all you do is need it together until it is a gray color and apply. I have used this stuff for ever and NEVER had it fail. Just follow the instructions and make sure you prep the metal before you use it. This stuff can be sanded and painted and if properly used it will last forever. The fact that you got the can for free seems worth the investment of six more just to see if it works.......
 

Jimc

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thanks jim!

thats a good link hndrson. all this talk about these things and i might pick one or two up. one to keep original and the other to paint it up all crazy.
 

Corvette1974

Member
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Location
Upper Black Eddy, PA
Thanks for the information on fiberglass and tanks. Very interesting...

I havent thought about brazing in a patch panel, maybe I'll give that a shot. This can is going to be my experiment in fixing a metal tank!

Those NOS tanks are real nice, maybe in the future that will be a purchase.


I've used water weld to repair the overflow tank on my M1028, it works excellently, but is it usable for long term fuel storage? I agree - I got the can for free, now lets experiment in finding the best solution to fixing it, regardless of if I need to spend some money - it will be worth the knowledge and experience gained.

Will
 
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