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Turbo time! Installing 6.5 turbo

481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Thought I'd start a new thread since I've actually started on this and I'm making good headway. There are some other threads on the installation that I've found very useful and helpful. Maybe I can add some small insight to anyone else thinking about adding a turbo. It's pretty straightforward, however due to the tight fit on the passenger side my advice is to do yourself a favor and remove the rf wheelwell before even trying to proceed. It really frees up some room.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
First thing I did was to remove the intake manifold, and while it was off I turned up the injection pump 1/4 turn. It's probably safer to go through the side window on the pump, but I didn't have much luck with that so I pulled the top off of the pump. A little tricky in there because you have to remove some pieces to get at the adjusting screw. If you don't get it reassembled correctly you can run into some big problems like runaway when you start it back up. I found some good YouTube videos explaining this. Then I started working on the right manifold. I was glad I had the fenderwell out because I had to use a 15mm wrench on the manifold bolts because of tight clearance. Luckily everything came loose easily. PB blaster is my friend.
 

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481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Got the right manifold off. Yes, it's a tight fit. Many of the bolts would not come all the way out because of the frame rail being so close so they slid out along with the manifold after using a sawzall on the exhaust pipe. I'll have to remember to insert the bolts into the turbo manifold and secure them with something while I'm sliding it into place. I'm done for the day but did pretty well as far as progress. The manifolds are not bolted on in the last photo, just wanted to see how it sat in there. I think I'll replace the glow plugs while they are right there.The rear one's bad anyway. New injector return lines are in order at this point too as well as some heat shield covers for them.
 

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2002ford

New member
461
0
0
Location
dayton,oh
Looking good so far. I have the tubo/intake and manifolds already. I want to put this in a m1010. I will be watching this thread.
 

2002ford

New member
461
0
0
Location
dayton,oh
Like I said, I will be watching. I scored all the parts I have for about $250.00 . I just need more money and time like everyone else. LOL. I am putting a 1031 back together now. I got it with every wire cut out of it. Yikes.... But it should run and move in a week or so. That gives me time to watch your thread.:beer:
 

Dawookie

New member
28
0
0
Location
Kingwood, TX
Got mine installed and still working on what to do with the batteries. Mine will both fit in the front tray but need to make some kind of bracket for them.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Haven't had a lot of time for the truck but I did get some work done on it this morning. Some of these steps were no fun at all, like the right manifold installation. Had to drill and tap the three broken flange studs. Also had to unhook the right engine mount (which involved removing the starter) and jack the engine up as far as I could to get the new longer manifold bolts in. I used a pair of FelPro manifold gaskets and the bolts are 10mm x 1.50 with lock washers. 5 are 90mm length 3 are 70mm. There are a bazillion braided oil feed lines on eBay for $15-20. Mine is 36" long with 1/8" NPT end for the engine end and AN4 at the turbo end. I got the blue 90 degree turbo fitting there as well. Turbo threads are 1/4" NPT and the line end is AN4. I also installed the 6.5 fuel pump block off/ drain plate and drain pipe. I plan on using the electric pump also taken from the Suburban donor.
 

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Jlprober

New member
19
3
3
Location
Jacksonville,FL
So I am New to this site and this is my first post and i have not bought the M-1031 yet. But are you installing a turbo on your 6.2 from a 6.5 engine?
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Yes. Mine's from a salvaged '95 Suburban. I made some more headway this afternoon and it is finally looking like an engine again. Waiting for my $15 crossover to show up from eBay, and hopefully that bolts up and clears the driveshaft. Looks like the CDR valve will work just fine in the original location but I'll need to bend up a copper pipe to run it up to the turbo air intake.
 

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Jlprober

New member
19
3
3
Location
Jacksonville,FL
Thanks for clarification. I was considering the banks system also. Did you explore that as well?

Please disreguard the pic as it belongs to a questions that i have for another thread.
 

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481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Yes I had an eBay search set up as well for a Banks system but they are harder to find at a reasonable price. I would have used either system depending on which good deal showed up first. There are a ton of these older turbo GM trucks sitting around dead somewhere waiting to be picked over. I paid 400 for this setup which came complete with the fuel pump and air filter housing and the best part was the guy had everything removed and waiting for me when I showed up. I do like the GM intake setup much more than the Banks "hat" that I've heard can be leaky and flimsy, plus I just like things that look factory when finished.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Made some good headway this afternoon. I re-routed my front oil cooler line to clear the 6.5 left manifold. Easy to do with a 90* street elbow from the hardware store. I also unhooked that line from the clamp on the inner fender so I could route it inside the frame rail and over the motor mount instead of squeezing it up between the manifold and frame rail. I'm glad I changed both manifolds instead of just the right one because the 6.2 manifold outlets are dramatically smaller than the 6.5's. Top and sides are done. Just need to put the crossover on when it shows up and install the electric lift pump, and then figure out what to do with the batteries.
 

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truck1

Member
332
10
18
Location
San Anselmo,CA.
While your in there before you button it up, you might consider a spin on fuel filter mod- easy modification and you'll probably have to do it sooner or later.
 

reloader64

Active member
377
137
43
Location
Liberty Hill, Texas
Which electric fuel pump are you going to use? I read somewhere that the electric pump from the electronically injected engine makes too much pressure for the mechanical injector pump. I don't know whether or not it's true.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Stock fuel pump taken off the same 95 'Burb. Fuel pressure is relatively low on these trucks, typically 4-10 psi which is about the same as the 6.2 mechanical lift pump.
 
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481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Got it up and running yesterday! For some odd reason the truck starts and runs much better than it used to. (IP adjustment?) I know it's getting much more fuel as there is black smoke out the pipe when I rev the engine.

Factory crossover fit fine, although there's not a lot of drive shaft clearance so I'll be addressing that once the rest of the project is done and wrapped up. Used factory electric pump seems to work fine.

Drilled the manifold for the pyro probe with the engine running so any shavings would be blown back out of the hole. If I would have been using the noggin, this hole would have been drilled and tapped prior to installation. Doh.
 

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