What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Keith_J said:

I had the same problem with stuck and broken bolts. I used Heli Coils to repair the threads. M10-1.5 threads.

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I also do this and replace the bolts with a stud and nut, so I still only need one wrench, plus no more stripped aluminum.

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Drove mine to get some ice cream today. It sat for nearly a month with no love. I wanted to make sure the fuel system was sealed after converting to a spin on filter set-up and new injection pump. Sarge started up just fine, ran down the road and looked good doing it.

Converted the NATO 12 pin trailer to provide for civy trailer brakes and 12 volt supply. Sockets A, C and F on the truck were wired to the same circuit, blackout stop and marker ( C and F) and blackout (A) . Cut A free and used that for electric brake signal (civy blue).

For the 12 volt positive source (break away battery and RV battery charge), I disassembled the truck connector and soldered a length of Packard wire to socket K (NATO standard receptacle for vehicle 12 or 24 volt +). Ran this wire all the way to the engine bay, then used a Scotch Lock connector to tap into the fuel heater pink wire for switched and fused 12 volts. I don't think I will use a trailer whenever the fuel preheat is requested. But if it burns a fuse, I have extra.

All other connections for a 7 way are straightforward.

Now for the adapter..I have a M101 trailer wiring plug plus 12 pin. I cut it off to 18" and connected wires accordingly to the 7 way. Now my trailer connections will be easy.

Now onto the fun stuff. My CUCV is a working M1031 SECM. Which means the generator is a must. It had been acting up, found the problem was electrical with the governor actuator. Specifically one electrical terminal screw had fallen out. Just my luck, its a 3/8" long #5-40. Hen's teeth or Chuck Norris tears, no one carries that. But I have a bucket or two of fasteners and FOUND ONE. Well, had to use my screw shortener but far better than needing my stretcher. Got the governor working.

Had a slow leak in the air system so I replaced the drain valve and all corroded plumbing. Gone are the iron fittings, Teflon tape and leaking quick connects. All brass plus all new Milton M connectors. Bubble tested leak free. Plus added 3/8" Nylon tube to the engine compartment..why? AIR HORN!!! Yes, AIR HORN! Kleinn dual tone. One more check box off the never ending laundry list.

Haven't really done anything last weekend. One of my cats died last week and went to get another one.



My FlowKooler waterpump did arrive! The HMMWV coolant crossover is expected next week.

Rutjes said:

Haven't really done anything last weekend. One of my cats died last week and went to get another one.

View attachment 754216View attachment 754215

My FlowKooler waterpump did arrive! The HMMWV coolant crossover is expected next week.

View attachment 754213View attachment 754214

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Is the FlowKooler pump set up for the "V" belt or the serpentine belt? Years ago I put a serpentine (reverse rotation) pump on a Mustang with a "V" belt engine and couldn't understand why it seemed to run hotter after ward . If it is for the "V" belt what is the part number? Sorry you lost your cat, I have one that enjoys when I am sitting the computer on Steel Soldiers.

emeralcove said:

Is the FlowKooler pump set up for the "V" belt or the serpentine belt? Years ago I put a serpentine (reverse rotation) pump on a Mustang with a "V" belt engine and couldn't understand why it seemed to run hotter after ward . If it is for the "V" belt what is the part number? Sorry you lost your cat, I have one that enjoys when I am sitting the computer on Steel Soldiers.

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This one is for the v-belt setup, clockwise rotation. Serpentine should be counterclockwise rotation.

Testing out the air horn means I have to recharge the tank..well, the governor interlock is out of whack with the drive gear switch..I flipped the governor on with the transmission in NEUTRAL!!! That made the engine go to 3600 RPM, just for a second..the governor is looking for speed output from the PTO, sensing nothing it went full throttle!!

No damage, this was a commanded input through the throttle shaft and the centrifugal governor in the injection pump limits speed.

Got the Wilson remanufactured Delco 27Si alternators installed with new pulleys and fans and belts.

Sharecropper, it is almost a shame to put that beautiful engine under a hood. Absolutely a beautiful job you are doing.

Unfortunately nothing good to report here. Gelled up my 08 the last cold spell we had, knew it was going to be well below zero and forgot to put an additive in the fuel. Oh well, maybe I'll remember next time lol.
Been trying to limp my front axle along till this spring, it's in serious need of a complete overhaul or replacement. Now the lockout on the passenger side quit locking. The stub axle is shot from a bad bearing and the lockout was a not so good shape when I bough the truck. 43 degrees the other day and it melted most of the snow on our driveway and turned to ice that night. Now can't even get out of the driveway lol. It rises 33' in elevation to the road. Looks like I'll tow it through the yard with my tractor to the road, then I should drive it right to the driveline shop to see what it's gonna cost to overhaul it. If it's not too far gone.
I've seen some good used axles, but they are being sold in pairs. Don't want both, just a front.

The Derale fan came in. Got it installed. Front of the beast is finished.

Sharecropper said:

The Derale fan came in. Got it installed. Front of the beast is finished.

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You have a part number for that new fan?

Tinstar said:

You have a part number for that new fan?

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17120. I provide more details in the last post of my rebuild thread.

Today I finally got around to hooking up my tag light. A previous owner apparently replaced the bed on the truck with a civvy bed. Back when I first got the truck and was troubleshooting the b/o light system, I found this tag bracket/light bent up and out of the way behind the mil bumper. A little cleaning, painting, and wiring and presto! A semi-factory tag bracket and lamp. Previous owner had bolted the tag directly over the marker lamp.

My 09 had gotten hard to start. Had the symptoms of bad gp’s. Preemptively ordered a new set of Bosches. Ended up ohm’ing the gp’s and also testing with a test light and all 8 seem fine. Which is good as the only three I unscrewed where swollen and stuck so I put them back.

The PO put a spin on fuel filter and I noticed whilst fiddling with the he gp’s that diesel was everywhere. Turns out the petcock was a 1/4 turn open. Tightened it then cycled the plugs twice (it’s 40* outside) and it fired right up. Must have been sucking in air.

wbdodgeiv said:

My 09 had gotten hard to start. Had the symptoms of bad gp’s. Preemptively ordered a new set of Bosches. Ended up ohm’ing the gp’s and also testing with a test light and all 8 seem fine. Which is good as the only three I unscrewed where swollen and stuck so I put them back.

The PO put a spin on fuel filter and I noticed whilst fiddling with the he gp’s that diesel was everywhere. Turns out the petcock was a 1/4 turn open. Tightened it then cycled the plugs twice (it’s 40* outside) and it fired right up. Must have been sucking in air.

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If they are swollen, failure is not far behind.

It could just be carbon build up too, a long high rpm run may clean it up enough to pull the plugs.

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The GPs will not fix themselves.
Your inviting Murphy’s Law to leave you stranded with an engine that won’t start at
the worst possible time.

The tips could break off and cause damage.

Recommend replacement ASAP.

I experienced the hard start a while back on my M1009 as well. I thought it was glow plugs but they were fine, I also found it was much harder to start if the front of the truck was uphill instead of down. It got worse and i finally realized the fuel filter base was leaking and allowed air to get in the fuel line over night. I put in a spin on filter with a hand primer to aid in priming since it was such a pita to crank and jump out and bled air and repeat several times before it would start, the rest of the day was fine but overnight it would lose prime and the colder it was the worse it would be. The new filter has been so nice and it turned out to look good too.

Started great again this am, just over freezing. Maybe 2-3 sec of cranking. I’ll start work on making a gp removal tool this weekend.

At the bagel shop:


ETA: I also have the gp solenoid fed directly from the front battery so I won't have cascading gp failures. I don't understand the point of the resistor bank and feeding it from 24v. If it had 24v glow plugs then it would balance the load across the batteries, as it is the second batteries contribution is wasted by the resistor bank.

wbdodgeiv said:

Started great again this am, just over freezing. Maybe 2-3 sec of cranking. I’ll start work on making a gp removal tool this weekend.

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Most guys here use Acdelco AC60G glow plugs.
They are self limiting (no swelling) and work great and have an excellent track record.

Wellmans will swell on you.
Evidently the Bosch ones do also.