What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

joshuak said:

Drove it to work.

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Hope you got the steering wheel chained.

I'm sure some of Baltimore's roaming illustrious 'disadvantaged urban youth' would love to relieve you of the burden of owning that truck...



I miss Smith Island... Hahah.. no crime...no riff raff

TechnoWeenie said:

Hope you got the steering wheel chained.

I'm sure some of Baltimore's roaming illustrious 'disadvantaged urban youth' would love to relieve you of the burden of owning that truck...



I miss Smith Island... Hahah.. no crime...no riff raff

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Nope no chains, honestly I rarely lock my vehicles. Agreed on Smith Island, I'm about 25 min. from Crisfield, not exempt from the same problems troubling the rest of small town America, but a beautiful area for sure.

What have I done to my CUCV today? With head hung low, we towed her home
Wife and I were on a leisurely drive over the back roads to some property we will be moving to, pulled up to a stop sign and she quit. Been running good but looked close on fuel, I was goig to stop to get fuel anyway. Added a couple gallons and no dice. New fuel filter seems I've been running a lot of bio, still nothing. Not pulling fuel to the filter. Off to get a new lift pump in the AM.

FrankenCub said:

What have I done to my CUCV today? With head hung low, we towed her home
Wife and I were on a leisurely drive over the back roads to some property we will be moving to, pulled up to a stop sign and she quit. Been running good but looked close on fuel, I was goig to stop to get fuel anyway. Added a couple gallons and no dice. New fuel filter seems I've been running a lot of bio, still nothing. Not pulling fuel to the filter. Off to get a new lift pump in the AM.

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An electric pump can be had for less than $30 and plumbed inline below the passenger side door, and it doesn't have to be 'on' until you need it....

Comes in real handy if you need to prime it (for whatever reason).

TechnoWeenie said:

An electric pump can be had for less than $30 and plumbed inline below the passenger side door, and it doesn't have to be 'on' until you need it....

Comes in real handy if you need to prime it (for whatever reason).

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That thought passed my mind but the mechanical pumps last plenty long. Besides that electric pumps I see locally are more geared towards hot rodding, like the big Holley pumps, or have too small inlet/outlets. I'm sure I could have ordered one but my patients is thin when it comes to needing parts lol. With a good pump it primes pretty fast anyway, only had an issue once but the leaky lines didn't help.

FrankenCub said:

That thought passed my mind but the mechanical pumps last plenty long. Besides that electric pumps I see locally are more geared towards hot rodding, like the big Holley pumps, or have too small inlet/outlets. I'm sure I could have ordered one but my patients is thin when it comes to needing parts lol. With a good pump it primes pretty fast anyway, only had an issue once but the leaky lines didn't help.

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Airtex E3158. Designed for use with the 6.2l

Just an FYI.

My mayday plan for field change of the fuel filter uses a small hand vacuum pump connected to the petcock on the filter. Just connect the vacuum pump, open the petcock, and hand-pump until the filter is full.

New set of shoes.

My 16 year old set of Goodyear Wrangler tires that came with my 1009 got a little dangerous to run. The side walls were dry cracked real bad.

Installed a set of Hankook Dynapro MT RT03s stock size 31"x10.5"x15". $149.00 each mounted & balanced. Not to aggressive and should do me just fine for my driving requirements.

It’s Monday.

Was Headed to get new tires.
About 15 miles to go and no warning blowout at 55 mph.
Installed set are BF Goodrich Commerical TAs.
Not putting same back on.
6 years old and not worn past change indicators.


Didn’t bend rim but did bend truck.
Tread completely separated as you can see it still laying in the road.

Could have been worse.

Any special fab work to mount that setup?

Looks great, just can't tell if it was simply spaced off the firewall or you made a bracket.

Mainsail said:

My mayday plan for field change of the fuel filter uses a small hand vacuum pump connected to the petcock on the filter. Just connect the vacuum pump, open the petcock, and hand-pump until the filter is full.

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Tinstar said:

View attachment 734582View attachment 734583View attachment 734584
It’s Monday.

Was Headed to get new tires.
About 15 miles to go and no warning blowout at 55 mph.
Installed set are BF Goodrich Commerical TAs.
Not putting same back on.
6 years old and not worn past change indicators.

View attachment 734587View attachment 734585View attachment 734586
Didn’t bend rim but did bend truck.
Tread completely separated as you can see it still laying in the road.

Could have been worse.

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Looks like no one was hurt, so good.

And also what was the brand/make of the blow out tire? 6 years old and not past indicators is pretty poor.

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Kaiser67M715 said:

Looks like no one was hurt, so good.
And also what was the brand/make of the blow out tire? 6 years old and not past indicators is pretty poor.
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I mentioned what I have mounted on truck in that post.

BF Goodrich Commercial T/As

Installing new set of Michelin’s Friday.

Tinstar said:

I mentioned what I have mounted on truck in that post.

BF Goodrich Commercial T/As

Installing new set of Michelin’s Friday.

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Were you running them at 65lbs like it showed on stencil on the side of your truck? That could be part of the problem with running them that stiff.
I run my Goodyears at 45lbs, rides smoother, less jarring when pothole hunting and they don't seem to build up any heat.

dougco1 said:

Were you running them at 65lbs like it showed on stencil on the side of your truck? That could be part of the problem with running them that stiff.
I run my Goodyears at 45lbs, rides smoother, less jarring when pothole hunting and they don't seem to build up any heat.

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I was not.
Had 50 in them.
Only time I do 65psi is when I have a heavy load in truck or trailer.
Then deflate back to 50 once unloaded.

Didn’t hit anything on road either.

Just Murphys luck saying hello.

Tinstar said:

I mentioned what I have mounted on truck in that post.

BF Goodrich Commercial T/As

Installing new set of Michelin’s Friday.

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Guess I need to get my eyes checked, thought I read that's what you put on after the blow out...but rereading, yeah, "installed set BF Goodrich, not putting the same on"

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Hi guys. My first time responding to a thread. Please don't pick on me too bad if I screw this one up. Just learning how.
I bought a non running m1008 last year. My first MV. Been wanting one for a long time and the price was right! Since I've had it, had the alternators rebuilt (One was kinda melted inside). New tires. Shocks. New brake calipers and pads. Replaced all the brake hoses. New brake shoes, wheel cylinders, hardware and oil seals on the rear. Doghead relay mod. Glowplugs, glowplug relay, fuel injectors and return lines.
I have a few more parts to install that I haven't been able to get to yet, like a new fuel lift pump, high flow water pump, door and window seals and exhaust system.
GOT to get a new dashpad! The original one is so cracked it looks like someone chopped it with a machete.
I'm trying to get it running by this fall. Things slow down when it gets really hot outside or it's raining all weekend.
Any suggestions about replacement wood for the side racks? Other things to focus on?
Thanks for any suggestions.

Get the fiberglass slats. They are green fiberglass and last forever. I have a pile of the slats I removed from M1008 troop seats when I scrapped a pile of the seat frames. They should be pretty easy to ship. Do you have any measurements and quantities? If interested let me know. These are cut to length and drilled. You just need to add the 5/16" carriage bolts. I scrapped them also. To me scrap is scrap. Sitting on a pile and saying hey those are worth something. Well yes. They are worth what they weigh. Have a Great Day

The slats on my '08 are 3@ 35 1/8" and 3@ 44 7/8" per side.
Prime and paint those thing too, they are the devil! Every time I'm in the back of my truck doing something I rub my arms and the fiberglass and pay for it the next couple days. I gotta get mine painted lol.
The guy I bought my '08 from didn't have the seat bases.

I made a bench out of the fiberglass slats and traded many slats to people. That fiberglass never showed any splintering or slivers and when I cut it I compare it to plastic slats. Very hard. If you have strands of fiberglass showing exposure you have something completely different or you used a chain saw to cut it. I never seen any strands visible on anything. They are well built and strong as steel. I just traded about 8 new 14 ft bench seats to a member here. Never seen any bad fiberglass slats. All the ones I have and had were coated in 383 green paint nice smooth finish. I never seen any unpainted. How about some pictures.

cucvrus said:

I made a bench out of the fiberglass slats and traded many slats to people. That fiberglass never showed any splintering or slivers and when I cut it I compare it to plastic slats. Very hard. If you have strands of fiberglass showing exposure you have something completely different or you used a chain saw to cut it. I never seen any strands visible on anything. They are well built and strong as steel. I just traded about 8 new 14 ft bench seats to a member here. Never seen any bad fiberglass slats. All the ones I have and had were coated in 383 green paint nice smooth finish. I never seen any unpainted. How about some pictures.

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It's not that these are bad, the paint has been worn off in sections. Once painted and sealed up this wont be a problem any more. I don't think I have any splinters showing anywhere, and they are strong for sure. Much better than having wood slats. I'll continue to use these until I locate one of the caps/camper tops they used on some. May have to place a wanted ad for one.