alpine44
Member
- 397
- 16
- 18
- Location
- Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
I will shop around where we live now, in Western North Carolina. Last time I asked, I was quoted around $1000 by a LineX shop in Montana for just the cab.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
rustystud
Well-known member
- 9,071
- 2,388
- 113
- Location
- Woodinville, Washington
"Line X" is assume stuff to be sure, but if you prep the body correctly the paint on liners can also work fine. First off you need the correct primer, but before you prime it you need to get all the rust and crud off. Then after priming you need to scuff it up to allow the liner to bound to it. If that is also done correctly you will have a liner that will last decades.
I just bought some "MonsterLiner" for my Deuce bed. I also bought some very high quality two part "Epoxy" primer. So after I sand the bed down to bare metal, I'll prime and then paint on the "MonsterLiner" . Yes it takes a lot of work and time, but it is cheaper then the Pro spray-on liners like "Line X" . Plus I choose the color "OD green" which Line X doesn't have. Also when using a Do-it-yourself liner you need to paint a UV protector over it. Thankfully with MonsterLiner it comes built in.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,274
- 9,603
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Trust me Rusty Stud I prepped and primed the M1009 floor on 2 trucks. One I had the DuraBak representative do for us as a demo so he could sell it as a rear threshold cover on a fleet run of Budget trucks. I looked good about a year. Then the hard wear areas at your feet where your heal sets when you drive. It began to get thick in that area and at both exit kick panels. It got bigger by the month. One day I was under the truck when it was at the dealer and I seen water dripping from the drivers side floor area at a couple places. I knew then what the thickening was. It was trapped water and rust under the coating. It had about 7 of them through out the cab. Anywhere a stone or something put a small tear or scratch in the surface. It collected water and rusted. I spent about 3 weeks cleaning the DuraBak out of the M1009 and paid $650. to get the LineX sprayed it. 10 years and not 1 rust spot. I have seen the home spun come and go. I would rather pay the first time then risk failure and pay more time and money the second time. That's just me. Money is a great tool when properly applied. Linex is applied hot with high pressure and dries hard and tack free in a few seconds. Our 2001 + 2007 Silverado still has great adhesion in the bed with over 200K and hard use. I wish you well. Have a Great Day.
- 4,256
- 1,707
- 113
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
X2 on the Line-X
You definitely get what you pay for.
Have the beds of all my trucks done with Line-X, except my M1008A1. Not doing that one.
I even had them spray the inside of a new WeatherGuard aluminum toolbox.
Great stuff and can’t beat the warranty.
The only drawback is you have to take whatever you want sprayed to their location.
I have seen Line-X mobile units, but only on Government jobs.
There are several things I would like sprayed, but it isn’t feasible to haul to their shop.
With that said, I could do a kit for those items, but I’ve yet to see a good, long term kit application.
You definitely get what you pay for.
Have the beds of all my trucks done with Line-X, except my M1008A1. Not doing that one.
I even had them spray the inside of a new WeatherGuard aluminum toolbox.
Great stuff and can’t beat the warranty.
The only drawback is you have to take whatever you want sprayed to their location.
I have seen Line-X mobile units, but only on Government jobs.
There are several things I would like sprayed, but it isn’t feasible to haul to their shop.
With that said, I could do a kit for those items, but I’ve yet to see a good, long term kit application.
- 883
- 1,302
- 93
- Location
- Rhein-Main Area, Germany
........while some consider to use linex in the floor area.......
.......the owner of this truck is one step further........lol
seen on a US car show today, near Frankfurt / a. Main
.......the owner of this truck is one step further........lol
seen on a US car show today, near Frankfurt / a. Main
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,274
- 9,603
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
That is alright if you plan on keeping the vehicle. But that just cut the resale value in half. Same as a lift kit and stacks. They bring pennies on the dollar at the auctions. Besides a Dodge needs that to stay together. When the metal rusts the Line X with still be there.
rustystud
Well-known member
- 9,071
- 2,388
- 113
- Location
- Woodinville, Washington
I didn't know you where referring to "DuraBak" . That stuff is awful ! Used it years ago and after only six months it started to come off in chunks ! I was referring to "Herculliner" and "MonsterLiner" myself. I've had great luck with both products. I've also had "RhinoLiner" sprayed in the bed of one of my trucks 18 years ago. It still is working great ! I don't know if "RhinoLiner" is still in business anymore though. The only thing I have against "Line X" is it can be slippery when wet. The other liners have a better grip I've found in our wet weather up here.
joshuak
Active member
- 747
- 214
- 43
- Location
- Slower shore, DE
Greetings german m1008, I enjoyed the pics you posted in the non MV spotted thread, good stuff. Did you have your M1008 on display, any pics? I think you've shown your engine compartment before and if I remember correctly it was really clean, looked good.
- 883
- 1,302
- 93
- Location
- Rhein-Main Area, Germany
joshuak
Active member
- 747
- 214
- 43
- Location
- Slower shore, DE
Nope, just chatting that's all.
In the other pics you showed some nice vehicles and from what I remember seeing, you have very nice truck yourself.
So I was wondering if you had displayed it and wanted to see some pics of your truck on display.
Es sieht gut aus. Looking good!
- 883
- 1,302
- 93
- Location
- Rhein-Main Area, Germany
........ ok, now I get it too.......LOLNope, just chatting that's all.
In the other pics you showed some nice vehicles and from what I remember seeing, you have very nice truck yourself.
So I was wondering if you had displayed it and wanted to see some pics of your truck on display.
Es sieht gut aus. Looking good!
I was there with my Truck but not realy displayed, I did not take any pictures either.
There are a few minor things to do right now, in progress......
View attachment 731368View attachment 731369View attachment 731370View attachment 731371
.....from the PO, under the taillight, right side, rust coming out under prestolit, sanded everything away and tinned, solder......don‘t have the right word ......re-glue the hood inlet, the tailgate on my truck is rusted on the lower edge, I bought a good old one a few months ago. This one must be prepared now.
...........if i have a little more time would be good
Last edited:
- 806
- 200
- 43
What have I done lately...I can't begin to list all of that work... so I better just write about the CUCV:
After having it sit in the yard for the last 5 months... I finally got our M1008 back up and running.
Had to tear down everything on the front of the engine, take the timing covers and etc off, remove intake and IP.... replaced sheared camshaft key (portion of the key that held the IP drive gear sheared when IP seized) Replaced IP with a rebuilt unit from Pensacola Diesel.
Also went ahead and replaced all 8 injectors with rebuilt bosch injectors from Pensacola Diesel.
Just got it all back together 2 days ago, took it for a short test drive just down the road and back. Sounded much quieter, ran smooth, and drove great.
Just have a few little things to button up and it should be good to go back into service.
Still have to update my other thread... but so glad to have our truck back in working condition.
After having it sit in the yard for the last 5 months... I finally got our M1008 back up and running.
Had to tear down everything on the front of the engine, take the timing covers and etc off, remove intake and IP.... replaced sheared camshaft key (portion of the key that held the IP drive gear sheared when IP seized) Replaced IP with a rebuilt unit from Pensacola Diesel.
Also went ahead and replaced all 8 injectors with rebuilt bosch injectors from Pensacola Diesel.
Just got it all back together 2 days ago, took it for a short test drive just down the road and back. Sounded much quieter, ran smooth, and drove great.
Just have a few little things to button up and it should be good to go back into service.
Still have to update my other thread... but so glad to have our truck back in working condition.
Last edited:
- 157
- 83
- 28
- Location
- Colchester, VT
I removed the th400 / np208 from my m1009 and installed a SM465 manual transmission with a np241 transfer case. I pulled them out of a 89 3/4 ton suburban I bought for parts a few years ago. The burb was a gasser so I had to use the flywheel out of an 83 diesel l got last year. It wasn't too difficult to swap and I didn't have to mess with the driveshafts. I like it so far.
Attachments
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,274
- 9,603
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Hey I would like that grille and core support from the Suburban. Do you still have it? Is it available? Buy, trade?
3jumpjeep
Member
- 157
- 1
- 16
- Location
- Linsdale, TN
The only vehicle I own with auto trans. is my M1028A2. When I get a M1009 I'll probably swap in manual trans.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
- 157
- 83
- 28
- Location
- Colchester, VT
The grille was all cracked and broken and the core support was rotted so they went to scrap.
Finally got around to cutting out some floor rust and patching it over. Thankfully this is by far the worst spot on the whole vehicle. I lack welding skills so 3/16" rivets were the order of the day. Rust shows in last photo on the black spray-on coating due to putting the carpet back down for a test fit.
MarcusOReallyus
Well-known member
- 4,524
- 810
- 113
- Location
- Virginia
Ahhhhh..... FINALLY!
I got my passenger door fully functional, thanks in part to some parts from cucvrus (latch assembly and a door panel), a few odds n ends (seals and a bunch of screws) from LMCTruck, and a new lock cylinder.
The lock cylinder was part of a set of two door locks and the ignition lock, all keyed alike, from GMCPAULS Truck Parts. Nice to finally have non-CUCV keyed locks, and have all three keyed alike. $44.25, shipped. Great serrvice, too. I ordered online on Saturday night, and it shipped in the wee hours of Monday morning, got here on Tuesday. Can't argue with that!![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
I also installed a new exhaust system, manifold back. "Flowtech 52525FLT - Flowtech Super StreetDual Exhaust Kits", from Summit Racing. Other than the mufflers, it was a complete bolt up kit, except for needing to buy some clamps and one simple 2 1/4" extension piece, belled on one end, straight on the other, which I cut down to about 6".
I got my passenger door fully functional, thanks in part to some parts from cucvrus (latch assembly and a door panel), a few odds n ends (seals and a bunch of screws) from LMCTruck, and a new lock cylinder.
The lock cylinder was part of a set of two door locks and the ignition lock, all keyed alike, from GMCPAULS Truck Parts. Nice to finally have non-CUCV keyed locks, and have all three keyed alike. $44.25, shipped. Great serrvice, too. I ordered online on Saturday night, and it shipped in the wee hours of Monday morning, got here on Tuesday. Can't argue with that!
I also installed a new exhaust system, manifold back. "Flowtech 52525FLT - Flowtech Super StreetDual Exhaust Kits", from Summit Racing. Other than the mufflers, it was a complete bolt up kit, except for needing to buy some clamps and one simple 2 1/4" extension piece, belled on one end, straight on the other, which I cut down to about 6".
Last edited:
dougco1
Well-known member
- 819
- 548
- 93
- Location
- Cooperstown NY
I guess I can't take your truck for a spin now.Ahhhhh..... FINALLY!
I got my passenger door fully functional, thanks in part to some parts from cucvrus (latch assembly and a door panel), a few odds n ends (seals and a bunch of screws) from LMCTruck, and a new lock cylinder.
The lock cylinder was part of a set of two door locks and the ignition lock, all keyed alike, from GMCPAULS Truck Parts. Nice to finally have non-CUCV keyed locks, and have all three keyed alike. $44.25, shipped. Great serrvice, too. I ordered online on Saturday night, and it shipped in the wee hours of Monday morning, got here on Tuesday. Can't argue with that!
View attachment 732132
I also installed a new exhaust system, manifold back. "Flowtech 52525FLT - Flowtech Super StreetDual Exhaust Kits", from Summit Racing. Other than the mufflers, it was a complete bolt up kit, except for needing to buy some clamps and one simple 2 1/4" extension piece, belled on one end, straight on the other, which I cut down to about 6".
- 4,256
- 1,707
- 113
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
Changing the locks is one of the very first things I did to truck.
I used the ACDELCO 2 key kit.
Round key for door.
Square for ignition.
Still use the chain through the steering wheel also.
I do like your one key setup.
Probably would have done that If I knew about it back then.
I used the ACDELCO 2 key kit.
Round key for door.
Square for ignition.
Still use the chain through the steering wheel also.
I do like your one key setup.
Probably would have done that If I knew about it back then.