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Thread: What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

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    Private SSGTUSMC's Avatar
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    Well last night I lost all lights in the rear. I traced all the wires, connections and grounds. Turned out to be the ground connection on each taillight. I spliced and soldered new wires and ran the grounds to the frame. Good as new! No I have all working rear lights.

    Tomorrow I will be installing new steering linkage and alignment along with tire rotation, rear diff seal, gear oil change and engine oil change!!! Also I have a 24v solar panel charging system from Humvee mil surplus to install. My on board 24v "Battery Tender" plug in charger kicked the bucket..... Was a good piece of gear for 3 years. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6462c2d1fe.jpg

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    Sergeant emeralcove's Avatar
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    Grounds are the bane of automotive electrical, the steel frame and body conducts electricity fine but rust and corrosion does not. I have started to add a "home run" ground wire to the battery negative post so the frame/body is redundant, not bypassed. Soldered connections are much more corrosion resistant. Since moving to the Pacific Northwest I have been learning a lot about wet climates and bad grounds, something I did not encounter much in the Southwest.

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    Paint piercing washers are a plus too.
    1986 M1008
    1984 M1031
    1984 M1010

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    Quote Originally Posted by emeralcove View Post
    Grounds are the bane of automotive electrical, the steel frame and body conducts electricity fine but rust and corrosion does not. I have started to add a "home run" ground wire to the battery negative post so the frame/body is redundant, not bypassed. Soldered connections are much more corrosion resistant. Since moving to the Pacific Northwest I have been learning a lot about wet climates and bad grounds, something I did not encounter much in the Southwest.

    Yep. You learn fast about proper grounding up here. I have run individual grounds to each of my body panels and frame and dash. All connect back to the battery. I got that idea from working on our buses here. They all have "ground bars" throughout the frame. That way any electrical component has a pathway straight to the batteries. The ground bars are solid brass with stainless set screws.

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    I replaced the rear brakelines and hose and while doing that I found out the proportion valve is broken.

    I have been searching for a part nr and could not find it.
    Is there a replacement part for the original?

    For now I have connected the line directly to the hose.

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    2 Star General Kaiser67M715's Avatar
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    No replacement parts. OK to bypass, just might lock rears more, especially in panic stops, and when wet

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    Part 2 of coolant flush. I used 2 quarts of Blue Devil, then drove it for two weeks, still a good bit of silicate buildup in the tubes and rusty sediment so I am repeating it until it is clean. Got a mechanical water temperature gauge (capillary tube type) so now I can see the relationship between coolant and exhaust gas temperatures, handy to know when pulling.

    Next mod is secondary transmission cooler, mounted downstream of the header tank cooler.
    Last edited by Keith_J; 01-05-2019 at 23:33.
    1986 M1031 SECM.
    1985 MEP 002A
    1974 MEP 026C, eventually converting to electric start.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith_J View Post
    Part 2 of coolant flush. I used 2 quarts of Blue Devil, then drove it for two weeks, still a good bit of silicate buildup in the tubes and rusty sediment so I am repeating it until it is clean. Got a mechanical water temperature gauge (capillary tube type) so now I can see the relationship between coolant and exhaust gas temperatures, handy to know when pulling.

    Next mod is secondary transmission cooler, mounted downstream of the header tank cooler.
    OK call it a shameless plug but...

    If you add a Paradox By Design Cooling Upgrade kit you will find all the remaining gunk in the system is a fast way. The reason it is taking so long to clear the system is the rear of the block has horrible pockets that hold air, rust, grit, etc. After our system is in place the rear of the block is opened up to the rest of the cooling system and is constantly bleed as you go.

    https://paradoxbydesign.com/collecti...nt-upgrade-kit

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    Quote Originally Posted by 911joeblow View Post
    OK call it a shameless plug but...

    If you add a Paradox By Design Cooling Upgrade kit you will find all the remaining gunk in the system is a fast way. The reason it is taking so long to clear the system is the rear of the block has horrible pockets that hold air, rust, grit, etc. After our system is in place the rear of the block is opened up to the rest of the cooling system and is constantly bleed as you go.

    https://paradoxbydesign.com/collecti...nt-upgrade-kit
    Running one right now. I'm the customer with a M1031 and the need for a slightly longer hose.
    1986 M1031 SECM.
    1985 MEP 002A
    1974 MEP 026C, eventually converting to electric start.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Swfb View Post
    I replaced the rear brakelines and hose and while doing that I found out the proportion valve is broken.

    I have been searching for a part nr and could not find it.
    Is there a replacement part for the original?

    For now I have connected the line directly to the hose.
    Go to "Summit Racing Parts" and buy an "adjustable" proportioning valve. That way you will not lock-up your rear brakes and possibly have an accident. Also as a plus, you can fine tune your stopping ability since no vehicle is identical. The factory just aims at the middle ground and hope it fits all vehicles.

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