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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Mainsail

Mainsail

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This command post unit came up on the fire department auction locally but nobody bid on it. I bid and won it at the opening bid of $1. After tax and fees, a grand total of $2.09 out the door.

Not sure whether I should keep it or flip it on craigslist, but it works in the M1009 pretty well. There's one more part not shown; I think it held the radio control heads.
 

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dougco1

dougco1

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Mainsail said:
This command post unit came up on the fire department auction locally but nobody bid on it. I bid and won it at the opening bid of $1. After tax and fees, a grand total of $2.09 out the door.

Not sure whether I should keep it or flip it on craigslist, but it works in the M1009 pretty well. There's one more part not shown; I think it held the radio control heads.
Click to expand...
Were you the only one at the auction? Nice score
 
KI4FKW

KI4FKW

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Alabama
Got my title in the mail. Got my black out drive light hooked up and tested. Took all four of my blackout marker lights off and tested. Two work perfectly, brake light is out on one, one front one is dead. Fixed a poor connection on one rear blackout marker. Removed a tag bracket / light that was tucked away beneath the truck and am preparing to paint it and place it somewhere else. Got my horn contact button parts in the mail. Am finishing up ordering a few miscellaneous parts from members here. Ordered a Laguna radio, speakers, and other misc. parts from LMC.
 
swinters

swinters

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Olympia, WA
Replaced my windshield washer bottle since the original was cracked near the mount bolt. The TM calls for GM part number 3990892 but both of my CUCV's have GM #3961557 in them, as do both of my 1982 civilian parts trucks. I kinda wonder why the difference. The bottle in my GMC parts truck was good so I cleaned that one up and installed it.
 
edpdx

edpdx

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Changed brake shoes and wheel cylinders. I am always a little daunted when staring into the inner workings of the drum. Took lots of pictures. First one takes the longest. I developed a new bleeding strategy:

The new cylinders had regular bleeder valves. Instead of opening the valve and closing the valve and opening the valve ad nauseam, I just opended the valve some with a clear vinyl tube attached to the valve that ran into a bottle. My OPEN and CLOSE was achieved by simply bending the hose closed and then opening before my helper applied the brake pedal. I had the shoes and drums pretty close and after about 40 applications of the brake pedal I got pretty good braking- no (or little) air left in the lines. Try it.
 
MarcusOReallyus

MarcusOReallyus

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edpdx said:
Changed brake shoes and wheel cylinders. I am always a little daunted when staring into the inner workings of the drum. Took lots of pictures.
Click to expand...
You and me both! :beer:


edpdx said:
First one takes the longest. I developed a new bleeding strategy:

The new cylinders had regular bleeder valves.
Click to expand...
Try speed bleeders. They have a one-way valve in them. Crack 'em open, pump away. A tube down into a container as you described contains the mess, but you can do all four wheels at the same time, with one person. Just keep the master topped up.
 
Rutjes

Rutjes

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Siphoned empty the still half full M1009 tank I had removed, disconnected transfer-case linkage and unbolted the hydro-boost unit. Cab is pretty much ready to be pulled off.
 
KI4FKW

KI4FKW

Member
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Alabama
Got some more parts in the mail (two blackout lights, battery bracket, rifle mounts). I pulled the dash pad and gauges to instal a radio. I got a Retrosound AM/FM/AUX model. For simplicities sake, I put two dash speakers in the corners and a double speaker in the center. Luckily, the previous owner had replaced the windshield with one with a built
in antenna. I connected it. Works great. Now to put it all back together.
 
Recovry4x4

Recovry4x4

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edpdx said:
Changed brake shoes and wheel cylinders. I am always a little daunted when staring into the inner workings of the drum. Took lots of pictures. First one takes the longest. I developed a new bleeding strategy:
Click to expand...
I'm just the opposite. In a sick way, I enjoy working on drum brakes.
 
Mainsail

Mainsail

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I thought it would a two or three hour job; swap in the new(er) sliders for the topper. The old ones had moss growing in the tracks since I bought them used for $20 several years ago, but worst of all they leaked. I had reused the old (prob OE) window seals so that may have been part of it.

It took me the entire day! The right side (first) was giving me fits, but the left went much smoother. As soon as the sun hit the driveway I put the new seals on the hood to warm them up. I strolled out around 10am and didn't finish until 5ish.

They do not appear to be leaking, so far so good. Not crazy about the tint but it came with the windows. Unlike the old ones, the locks on the new(er) windows actually work. The frames are still raw aluminum; I had primed and painted the old ones but it didn't stick too great so I'll probably just leave it. I may try to disassemble the old ones to keep the glass.

Since the antenna and riser had to come off, I cleaned up the antenna connections and added a ground strap from the top of the riser to the guard bolt; all connections check good.
 

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rustystud

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
Mainsail said:
I thought it would a two or three hour job; swap in the new(er) sliders for the topper. The old ones had moss growing in the tracks since I bought them used for $20 several years ago, but worst of all they leaked. I had reused the old (prob OE) window seals so that may have been part of it.

It took me the entire day! The right side (first) was giving me fits, but the left went much smoother. As soon as the sun hit the driveway I put the new seals on the hood to warm them up. I strolled out around 10am and didn't finish until 5ish.

They do not appear to be leaking, so far so good. Not crazy about the tint but it came with the windows. Unlike the old ones, the locks on the new(er) windows actually work. The frames are still raw aluminum; I had primed and painted the old ones but it didn't stick too great so I'll probably just leave it. I may try to disassemble the old ones to keep the glass.

Since the antenna and riser had to come off, I cleaned up the antenna connections and added a ground strap from the top of the riser to the guard bolt; all connections check good.
Click to expand...
Did you use a good "etching" primer on the frames ? Aluminum needs a etching primer for the paint to stick.
 
Mainsail

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
rustystud said:
Did you use a good "etching" primer on the frames ? Aluminum needs a etching primer for the paint to stick.
Click to expand...
The only primer in the garage is self etching primer.

The wheels have gone many years with a coat of self etching primer and spraycan flat black, with only some chipping where a rock or lug wrench has hit.
 
O

olly hondro

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tucson AZ
3 inch exhaust system. Recall it was straight piped before. I still have to drive to the trailhead (not a trailer queen), the exhaust w/no muffler exiting right behind the driver was giving me a headache. All better now.
muffler.jpg
 
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