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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

WECSOG

Member
68
2
8
Location
Prescott, AZ
Replaced the drivers side inner fender. It was rusted out. Found a replacement at the local junk yard off a Suburban.. It apparently had some issues with oil leakage as oil was ever where under the hood including on the inner fenders. Well that issues helped preserve the inner fenders in as new condition. $12.00 well spent on a like new inner fender!!
 

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CivilEGR

Member
70
20
8
Location
Detroit, MI
I'm new to an M1008A1 and the site, so I've been doing the basics.

Hosing out all the mouse poop and piss. Trying to find a solution to the smell.

Added some radiator sealer to hopefully stop the leaks.

Cut off the handy chain lock for the steering wheel.

Getting ready to pull the heater core and air box to further clean out the mouse issues.

Started ordering some parts to get rid of the death wobble. Bolt in steering box reinforcement, King Pin rebuild kit, new steering stabilizer.

Taking inventory of what I need/want.

Needs some corner panels replaced, sealed and primed. Not much other rust repair required.

Want new wheels/tires at some point.

Want replacement bench seat and dashboard, partially to get rid of the mouse piss problems, and partly to spruce it up a bit.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
:wink:
Cut the lock off since no key or cut chain off?

Cheap insurance since it takes less than a minute to steal one of these Trucks.
OK. How do you steal one if you don't have the key? I would hear one of these trucks start a 1/2 mile away. Besides no one wants to steal a camo truck. They wouldn't get very far very fast. I thought yo lived out in the nice part of Texas. Just let the keys hang and doors unlocked. That's the way it is here. No one stealing my trucks. They fear the reprisal. Have a Great Day. I take every chain and lock and recycle it as soon as the truck gets home. If I wanted to steal one the bolt cutter is the master key.:wink:
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
810
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Location
Virginia
Hosing out all the mouse poop and piss. Trying to find a solution to the smell.

Please pay attention to the hantavirus comments on your other thread.

As for the smell, once it's all cleaned out, blast it with ozone. Hook up a battery charger so you can leave the key on and the heater fan running full blast to circulate the air through the system, and ozone it for a couple of hours with one of these ozone generators from Amazon. Use it with a regular appliance timer or use the built-in timer up to 180 minutes.


After the ozone treatment, make sure to air it out well before you stick your face in there and breathe deeply! Give it at least a half hour with the doors open, or a few hours with everything still closed up.

I use one in my house with a digital appliance timer. It runs for 30 seconds every 7 minutes. Just enough to keep the odors controlled in the house. About once a month I blast my crawl space for a couple of hours. Keeps the mice away. :)


Added some radiator sealer to hopefully stop the leaks.
I hope you used either Alumaseal or Copperseal. The goopy stuff can clog up a system
 

Tinstar

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:wink:
OK. How do you steal one if you don't have the key? I would hear one of these trucks start a 1/2 mile away. Besides no one wants to steal a camo truck. They wouldn't get very far very fast. I thought yo lived out in the nice part of Texas. Just let the keys hang and doors unlocked. That's the way it is here. No one stealing my trucks. They fear the reprisal. Have a Great Day. I take every chain and lock and recycle it as soon as the truck gets home. If I wanted to steal one the bolt cutter is the master key.:wink:
Very easy to do.
Key or not makes zero difference.
Experienced thief’s can take your truck in less than a minute.

I live in Oklahoma and am in a nice part.
Leave the keys in it all the time........at HOME.
If someone walks up my 1/4 mile driveway to steal something, then they will leave in a Medical Examiners Van since they will not be breathing anymore.
I always keep the gate closed so someone can’t “wander” in accidentally.

I was referring to when someone’s out and about away from home.
Shopping, park, game, etc.

Use my steering wheel chain/lock at every stop I make when I go inside and will not have eyes on it.
The truck draws attention and their not getting cheaper and obviously aren’t making more of them.
Classic trucks, camo or not, are very popular now and prices rising.
CUCVs are no exception. Especially all original examples.
If Someone wants it bad enough, they’ll get it, but I try and make it as unattractive a target as possible.

Make the thief take a lot of time to steal it.
They don’t like that and will move on, usually, to an easier target.

The lock and and chain do help.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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Location
Virginia
If someone walks up my 1/4 mile driveway to steal something, then they will leave in a Medical Examiners Van since they will not be breathing anymore.
If you are going to announce your intention to commit first degree murder on a public forum where your posts are easily found and traced to you (yes, they are), you should at least watch this video in case that day ever comes. (Actually, everybody should watch this about once a year.)

And yes, if you do shoot and kill someone under the conditions you describe, and this post is found and traced to you, it will be first degree murder and no "stand your ground" law will save you.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-7o9xYp7eE
 
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Tinstar

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Edmond, Oklahoma
If you are going to announce your intention to commit first degree murder on a public forum where your posts are easily found and traced to you (yes, they are), you should at least watch this video in case that day ever comes. (Actually, everybody should watch this about once a year.)

And yes, if you do shoot and kill someone under the conditions you describe, and this post is found and traced to you, it will be first degree murder and no "stand your ground" law will save you.


You clearly do not know Oklahoma Law.
 

Evil Dr. Porkchop

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,952
269
83
Location
Colchester, VT
Went to the salvage yard this morning and picked up some parts: Another shift boot, 6.5 diesel oil pump drive to replace the vacuum pump, another clutch fluid reservoir, a shifter out of a jeep wrangler, and some shift knob parts.
IMG_2525.jpg
I use the later style transfer case shift knobs on my trucks to replace the always cracked original style. The blank center button is removable so it's easy to change them around. Since I had to remove the np208 bezel with the shift indicator I grabbed a button from an 80s Dodge to use on that, and then the 5 speed pattern from a Ford pickup.
IMG_E2526.jpg
I welded the jeep shifter to the transfer case lever just because, then worked on the shift boots. I haven't seen a real good way to make both boots work since they're so close together so I just winged it. I cut and welded the two boot retainers into one which will work decent enough.
IMG_2535.jpgIMG_2536.jpgIMG_2537.jpg
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,388
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Please pay attention to the hantavirus comments on your other thread.

As for the smell, once it's all cleaned out, blast it with ozone. Hook up a battery charger so you can leave the key on and the heater fan running full blast to circulate the air through the system, and ozone it for a couple of hours with one of these ozone generators from Amazon. Use it with a regular appliance timer or use the built-in timer up to 180 minutes.


After the ozone treatment, make sure to air it out well before you stick your face in there and breathe deeply! Give it at least a half hour with the doors open, or a few hours with everything still closed up.

I use one in my house with a digital appliance timer. It runs for 30 seconds every 7 minutes. Just enough to keep the odors controlled in the house. About once a month I blast my crawl space for a couple of hours. Keeps the mice away. :)




I hope you used either Alumaseal or Copperseal. The goopy stuff can clog up a system
So the "ozone" keeps those little devils out ? I'll have to try that then. I've tried pretty much everything else to keep those evil critters out and nothing seems to last long short of heavy duty poisons. Which killed one of my cats last winter !
 

Merddin

Member
91
-1
6
Location
Cape Girardeau, MO
My dad said moth balls will keep mice out. Cheaper than an ozone machine. But ozone can kill bacteria and I assume viruses as well. High concentrations of it can be harmful, if a lot is inhaled. Ozone is why the air smells so fresh after a thunderstorm. The lightning creates ozone.
 
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swinters

Member
56
9
8
Location
Olympia, WA
I've had a Banks Sidewinder turbo kit sitting on the shelf in my shop for way too long and decided to put it on and open up some shelf space. I still had the original motor mounts and was having a problem with the exhaust head pipe coming off the turbo hitting the frame so checked my motor mounts and sure enough they were bad. I picked up a pair of them and just came in from putting them in. What a job! It would have been way easier had it not been for the turbo, exhaust crossover, and head pipe all being in the way. Got it done though. Still have to finish hanging the exhaust and put the batteries in so figure on two more days with all of the honey-dos that I keep getting hit with. Word to the wise - If you're going to do this, right after the step where you pull the right side exhaust manifold, write in "change both motor mounts"! They're cheap and will need to be replaced. CUCVs used the small block mounts (A2292) vs. the Big Block (A2395) that the K30's use. When they designed the CUCV all the 6.2s used the small block style but GM later changed to the Big Block style but due to parts commonality requirements and production contracts the CUCVs stayed with the small block. In some ways the small block style is better but they do need to be changed more frequently. The pair I just bought were about $20.
 
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TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Nova Laboratories, WA
I've had a Banks Sidewinder turbo kit sitting on the shelf in my shop for way too long and decided to put it on and open up some shelf space. I still had the original motor mounts and was having a problem with the exhaust head pipe coming off the turbo hitting the frame so checked my motor mounts and sure enough they were bad. I picked up a pair of them and just came in from putting them in. What a job! It would have been way easier had it not been for the turbo, exhaust crossover, and head pipe all being in the way. Got it done though. Still have to finish hanging the exhaust and put the batteries in so figure on two more days with all of the honey-dos that I keep getting hit with. Word to the wise - If you're going to do this, right after the step where you pull the right side exhaust manifold, write in "change both motor mounts"! They're cheap and will need to be replaced. CUCVs used the small block mounts (A2292) vs. the Big Block (A2395) that the K30's use. When they designed the CUCV all the 6.2s used the small block style but GM later changed to the Big Block style but due to parts commonality requirements and production contracts the CUCVs stayed with the small block. In some ways the small block style is better but they do need to be changed more frequently. The pair I just bought were about $20.
Let us know how it works. I've heard anything more than a couple PSI and kaboom...
 

Tinstar

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Edmond, Oklahoma
So the "ozone" keeps those little devils out ? I'll have to try that then. I've tried pretty much everything else to keep those evil critters out and nothing seems to last long short of heavy duty poisons. Which killed one of my cats last winter !
I use FreshCab
Have had extremely good luck with it.

The one place I didn’t put it was my M925A2 battery box.
Didn’t even think about it.
To me it was “sealed”.
Cab mice free.....battery box no.
The mice came through the cable hole at the bottom.
New owner found it.

Most farm and ranch stores plus Amazon will have it.

E26F4322-7205-4CF3-A995-F49C8D8F3AEA.jpg
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Let us know how it works. I've heard anything more than a couple PSI and kaboom...
The banks was manufactured for the 6.2. Anything under 10psi and 1100F for EGT, your all set. Stud the top and bottom end of the motor, you could be able to boost upwards of 15Psi.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

swinters

Member
56
9
8
Location
Olympia, WA
The banks was manufactured for the 6.2. Anything under 10psi and 1100F for EGT, your all set. Stud the top and bottom end of the motor, you could be able to boost upwards of 15Psi.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
You're right on the money on the boost and EGT. I've put several on for other people and they're doing fine. Heck, I used to put Schwitzer smoke kits on semi's running the 250 Cummins back in the early 70's and it was the same thing. California started handing out tickets for excessive smoke so the Cummins shop I worked in was inundated. We told the drivers that if they started approaching 1100 degrees on the pyrometer that they needed to grab a gear and let the engine work easier. I love these Banks kits and they do great as long as you don't have a loose nut at the steering wheel.
 
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