What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Another Ahab said:

No electrical expertise here, but can you explain why a 1) relay is a better alternative to a 2) switch?

If there is no simple explanation, I'll get it, but hoping maybe that there is.

Is it simple?

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The way GM has wired (and most manufacturers) their headlight switches, it typically ends up with voltage loss at the headlight sockets. I have seen as much as 2 volts loss going through all the wiring and dash switch. You are also running all of the current though the switch, which over time starts to degrade with wear and current arcing of contacts. By running relays for the headlights, it allows almost zero voltage and current loss and you are running the current though a relay rated much higher than the factory switch would ever run at for extended periods. You end up with brighter headlights (assuming incandescent bulbs) and a headlight switch that will likely never fail. For me, Win, Win. I have done this on Jeeps and classic cars and it works great. Also this keeps all of the high current load in the engine bay and not having it come through the firewall and into the dash.

chevymike said:

By running relays for the headlights, it allows almost zero voltage and current loss and you are running the current though a relay rated much higher than the factory switch would ever run at for extended periods. You end up with brighter headlights (assuming incandescent bulbs) and a headlight switch that will likely never fail. For me, Win, Win. I have done this on Jeeps and classic cars and it works great. Also this keeps all of the high current load in the engine bay and not having it come through the firewall and into the dash.

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A clear explanation, thanks! And agreed that it sounds like a "no-brainer" (a relay over a switch).

Yesterday I did some more work on getting the blazer fuel tank (test) fitted. Ordered a plastic tank (31 gallon) and a new sending unit. Waiting on those for final fitting. I then loaded up the 1008 and 1009 donor doors and took them to my work shop (closer to home and more comfortable to work at). Got 2 doors stripped to the bare shell. Now the other two... windows are stuck closed, might be a tough job?



Today I decided to do some woodworking. I made 2 axle stands using furniture dollies. Space is getting limited so the ability to move them around will be useful. Working on them will also be easier this way, especially for my dad, who lost a leg. Fixing/cleaning/repairing brakes, bearings, etc. will be a nice job for him to tackle.



And since I was getting the fuel tank shipped anyway I decided to get a set of AC-60G glow plugs and AntennaClimber's glow plug card as well.

Rutjes said:

Today I decided to do some woodworking. I made 2 axle stands using furniture dollies. Space is getting limited so the ability to move them around will be useful. Working on them will also be easier this way, especially for my dad, who lost a leg. Fixing/cleaning/repairing brakes, bearings, etc. will be a nice job for him to tackle.

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Sorry to hear about your dad's leg, but good to know he still wants to tackle stuff, good for him.

And nice work on those dollies!

Very nice stands you fabricated up there. I really hate to se doors that have speaker holes hacked in them. Besides the poor speaker takes all the weather and the door has no good sound quality. Looks like you are moving right along on your project. Did you ever discover what axles you have in that truck? You may have mentioned it and I missed it. Looks like you have a handle on it. Good Luck.

Another Ahab said:

And nice work on those dollies!

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cucvrus said:

Very nice stands you fabricated up there. Good Luck.

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Comment by cucvrus is on the money, because really those things look well-thought out and solid:

- Where did you get that 3x4 material for the "stretchers" between the dollies?

That's good stuff.

Another Ahab said:

Sorry to hear about your dad's leg, but good to know he still wants to tackle stuff, good for him.
And nice work on those dollies!

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Veins clogged up after years of smoking. Good thing he is the type of person that can't sit still. It's tougher for him now, but he keeps busy.

cucvrus said:

Very nice stands you fabricated up there. I really hate to se doors that have speaker holes hacked in them. Besides the poor speaker takes all the weather and the door has no good sound quality. Looks like you are moving right along on your project. Did you ever discover what axles you have in that truck? You may have mentioned it and I missed it. Looks like you have a handle on it. Good Luck.

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I hate having the speaker holes there too. Oh well, it's what I have to work with. The donor doors are in worse shape then I thought, will probably use the doors that came with the 1028.

Too be honest, I haven't looked closely at the axles yet. They are a D60 and a 14-bolt. Still unsure where they came from. The 14-bolt is from a Suburban maybe? D60 from I think is original.

Another Ahab said:

Comment by cucvrus is on the money, because really those things look well-thought out and solid:
- Where did you get that 3x4 material for the "stretchers" between the dollies?
That's good stuff.

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All off the shelve stuff . Those "stretchers" are 50x75mm. 18mm plywood for the stands with 50x75mm in-between.


Has anyone ever replaced the door window sashes? All of mine are kinda rusted (through). I can make some work, but I'd like replacing them. After lots of Googling I found LMC has them.

Rutjes said:

All off the shelve stuff . Those "stretchers" are 50x75mm. 18mm plywood for the stands with 50x75mm in-between.

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50mmx75mm, the Metric system is SOOO much simpler to work with than the mediocre (really medieval) Imperial system.

You all are lucky.

It drives me nuts that we still cling to Imperial over here (means two sets of wrenches and sockets, instead of just one).

I've already pulled out all my hair from the frustration of needing BOTH!!

Metric or SAE, it is when on a given vehicle they chose to use both sometimes with metric threads and an SAE head. I figured it was some kind of exercise program so I would have to get out from under a vehicle the maximum number of times for any task. Even stuff from China, I have a "Hazard Fraught" tow bar that is made in China and some of the adjustment bolts have a metric head and I assume metric threads but the self locking nuts supplied with it require a 3/4" wrench............ Seriously, how is that justified?
have you seen the sockets that aren't broached in the traditional 6 or 12 point but instead in a female 6 spline so they work on both metric or SAE............. well kind of. Wouldn't want to need to really bear down on that set up but for light work it.

emeralcove said:

Metric or SAE, it is when on a given vehicle they chose to use both sometimes with metric threads and an SAE head. I figured it was some kind of exercise program so I would have to get out from under a vehicle the maximum number of times for any task.

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You might have hit on it, right there, emeralcove:

- Maybe some boardroom of manufacturing executives who get together for laughs to see how screwey they can make it for the consumer!

Sofar I've been able to get around with just metric tools. Only on the instrument panel I found bolts that where too big for 6mm and to small for 7mm. I managed to get them out using pliers though. Tapped the holes to accept metric bolts.

Got tired of my wiper blades falling off or laying on their side. Purchased a set of later model GM wiper arms and cut them down and welded them. They use a pin instead of the spade.

pigpen60 said:

Got tired of my wiper blades falling off or laying on their side. Purchased a set of later model GM wiper arms and cut them down and welded them. They use a pin instead of the spade.

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Are the ends damaged?
Mine are original and have been flawless.
Almost 4 years now

I dont think they are damaged.

pigpen60 said:

Got tired of my wiper blades falling off or laying on their side. Purchased a set of later model GM wiper arms and cut them down and welded them. They use a pin instead of the spade.

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Buying the one 16" wiper fits all style make for to many connections and sloppy fit. I agree. The bayonet style lock that came stock are some of the better ones I have seen. As long as you buy the proper ones that are designed to fit that mount. Not the universal mount wipers that come with all the adapters. Even the shepherd loop style suck if you use the 1 size fits all brand. I had a few CUCV's that had M151 style wipers adapted to the arms. No Good.

I get my wiper blades from NAPA.

Even Walmart is OK. They all sell a universal wiper. I get exact fit ANCO 16" 31-16. They all seem to be a varied fit. But right out of the pack these will snap on and stay on. Not to be confused with Snap-On. They are less pricey than that brand. The ANCO replacement blades are a Product of Mexico. But if the wiper fits. Wipe it. Have a Great Day and Be Safe.

I have been using Silblades on my last few vehicles and they have been awesome. Fit great (just put a set on my M1010 and Cherokee) and on my Ram they were on for 4 years, sitting out in the SoCal sun and still worked like new. As far as I know the new owner has had them on for the last 2 years in WY. A little pricey up front but not having to replace blades every couple years is great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029X5UQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

chevymike said:

I have been using Silblades on my last few vehicles and they have been awesome. Fit great (just put a set on my M1010 and Cherokee) and on my Ram they were on for 4 years, sitting out in the SoCal sun and still worked like new. As far as I know the new owner has had them on for the last 2 years in WY. A little pricey up front but not having to replace blades every couple years is great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029X5UQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Just ordered a set.
Curious to see how they perform.

Axle stands are a success! Glad I bought an engine hoist. Was able to lift one side of the 14-bolt onto the stand using the hoist and managed to lift the other side on it by myself. The D60 was still attached to the leaves/frame. I hoisted up the frame, rolled the stand under it and unbolted the axle.



Removed everything bolted to the frame so when I get it epoxy coated they have better access. Will have those parts coated separately.

I've also met a fellow Dutch Steel Soldier in person. We had a lot of CUCV discussions on Whats App before. Today he dropped of some old DB2s I needed for parts and he got a saddle tank and accessories for his dual tank build.