What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Mainsail said:

Well if we're going to talk radjo, here's my current set-up. The VHF control head is on top, then the remote for the spotlight, then the SmartSiren control head, and finally the UHF control head.

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That's one real fine set-up there; looks great.

Ever since I bought my '09 six years ago, I have been aware that the wire loom that runs inside of the chassis frnt-rear has been hanging, I looked at it way back but it looked like rivets had broke off. I ended up looking at it yesterday with better light. Two of the three of the flanged clamps that hold the loom in place were still looped over the plastic tube loom. I thought I needed rivets, but I opted instead for flanged 3/4" self start bolts. Zipped them in next to original holes All good now. Man I hate dangling.

C15TA said:

Rob, I can understand your hesitation about travelling alone but with all the vehicles going to War and Peace on the ferry could you not find someone to tag along with? The times I went to War and Peace from The Netherlands I couldn't believe all the migrants living in the bushes outside the ferry terminal in Calais. We are not used to that sort of thing in Canada. Have a good trip.
Met vriendelijke groeten.
Barry

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Barry, I can find someone to tag along. It's thursday behind a Deuce. Slower driving, more distance to meet up, more stops, because he has his little girl with him.
Maybe today or tomorrow afternoon I will leave.
The migrant problem is in Calais, I will be travelling from Dunkirk.
Still suspicious bout those migrants, they have nothing, but do have money for the latest cell phones to keep in contact with each other..

cucvrus said:

Yes I would weld a nut and heat the area a bit. That is a common pipe plug thread and you should be able to get that out without an issue. You have the room under there to work and with the flatbed you should have more room. I would put the plug with the square male drive on it when you replace it. I had a few that the female 3/8" drive were partially stripped and I was able to clean them real good and get them out. A few with an air chisel and some with the ratchet and some tin hammered in the hole. But I got them all out. Just a thought. Good Luck.

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Some race car friends dont have fill holes in their rears. They fill a plastic bag with the proper amount of fluid, throw the bag in, and drive off. The gears grind up the bag and the oil is dispersed.

edpdx said:

Ever since I bought my '09 six years ago, I have been aware that the wire loom that runs inside of the chassis frnt-rear has been hanging, I looked at it way back but it looked like rivets had broke off. I ended up looking at it yesterday with better light. Two of the three of the flanged clamps that hold the loom in place were still looped over the plastic tube loom. I thought I needed rivets, but I opted instead for flanged 3/4" self start bolts. Zipped them in next to original holes All good now. Man I hate dangling.

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If you hate dangling, why did it take 6 years to fix? Just poking at you...

Rob, please remember to post photos of your trip so the rest of us can live vicariously through you.
mvg,
Barry

I bought my m1009 a parts truck with a d60, 14bff, 205 t case and 35" tires.

Well since I couldn't make it to Weare this weekend. I guess this weekend is a good time to get some more maintenance done. My package from LMC came in today. Replaced Drive and passenger door window seals inside and out. Replaced the rear window crank and seals too. Had to sand and paint the chrome handle to OD green. Also replaced the fuel hose cove in the back of the bed. And another Lube order done again all around all points.

How hard was it to do the window seals?
Thanks

CUCVLOVER said:

How hard you as it to do the window seals?
Thanks

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It depends lol..... Are the old ones still in? Make sure you pull/scrape the old ones out. I bought the $99 kit from LMC it works great Windows are pretty hard to go up or down but that's normal for a while. Looks good now I didn't have any seals before.

There is a little bit of the felt channel in the driver side door, the wiper and seals are basically gone. The metal things that hold the Felts are there but that's it.

Piece of cake. Easiest thing to do is remove the inner door panel so you can un-attach the rear side of the window track it is attached with 2 - 1/4" sem bolts. Take them off and slide the window towards the rear of the cab. Pull the old run seal out of the front wing window track and put a new run seal in. crank the window 1/2 way down to do all this and adjust the window height as needed. Then slide the window forward back into the front track and slip the seal into the rear track reinstall the track and adjust it so it fits snug but not tight. While changing this rubber and the door panel is off. Clean and lubricate the window regulator and the slides /track that the regulator travels in. Also the bottom of the wing widow pivot point could use some lube. Many times the rubber for the window track to bottom out on is missing. improvise and glue or screw a piece of rubber on the stop in the door stop inside the door. Reassemble and replace the outer window wipe while you are going this far. Clean as you go. I hope that helps. It is an hour job if you take your time and do a nice job and clean and lube everything as you go. You can do a hack job in half the time. Good Luck.

CUCVRUS , Got it. That's the best way to do it.

SgtHass if your window is tight going up and down you may want to push that bottom part of the adjustable rear track towards the back. It will loosen the bind on the bottom corner of the glass a bit and make the window go up easier. Give it a whirl and see if it helps. Thank you for your service.

SgtHaas said:

It depends lol..... Are the old ones still in? Make sure you pull/scrape the old ones out. I bought the $99 kit from LMC it works great Windows are pretty hard to go up or down but that's normal for a while. Looks good now I didn't have any seals before.

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Window seals are my next do. Closed the door yesterday and pieces landed on my foot. I think that was a request.

SgtHaas said:

Also replaced the fuel hose cove in the back of the bed. And another Lube order done again all around all points. View attachment 571854

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I can't figure out what we're looking at in the photo (can't figure the location, and nothing to scale against).

I apologize for not being that familiar with CUCV's, and I figure it's NOT the fuel hose cove, or is it? Dome light comes to mind, but I'm guessing that's not it. What's the shot?

That's the crank handle for the tailgate window.

Another Ahab said:

I can't figure out what we're looking at in the photo (can't figure the location, and nothing to scale against).

I apologize for not being that familiar with CUCV's, and I figure it's NOT the fuel hose cove, or is it? Dome light comes to mind, but I'm guessing that's not it. What's the shot?


View attachment 571893

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Is there a NAPA cross-reference of spare parts for the CUCV on here anywhere? I need to get a spare passenger side alternator belt, and air filters, and I don't know what numbers I need to give the NAPA guy.

Air filter
NAPA# FIL2096 (or 6096);

Belt
Gates# 7483;

I gave the Napa guy that part number for the belt and got the right one.
For the air filter I just asked for a 1986 Chevy k30 6.2 air filter.

Also here is the cucv wiki so you can check for your self.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?27427-Cucv-Wiki

Hope this helps.

Duplicate post, CL added the wiki link.