What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Well Stinky (as my wife calls it) had been sitting for two months. Went out figuring Id have to jump it to start. Cranked about 15 sec and fired right up! Stinky never ceases to amaze me!

Replaced All three belts (that power steering belt sucks!! ) but, as the idiot I am forgot to disconnect the batteries. Ended up grounding the passenger side alternator (Alt 2), the fusible link from the 2nd battery and alt2 burned up in a cloud of smoke. replaced that fusible link with one from my parts truck. turned key on, alt2 light did not light up. So now I will swap the alt2 from my parts truck. Hopefully that's all I fried, not sure. Thats what I get for being in a hurry!

We used the M1009 to get away from the drunks, the all-night fireworks, and the drunks with fireworks. Headed up to a very secluded spot in the Olympic Mountains where silence was indeed golden.

http://youtu.be/l9jfV40affk

Thanks for taking us with you on your trip.

After preforming admirability on the 300 mile round trip to Eagle summit ysterday, starts up and fogs the inside of the windshield. Guess its time for a new heater core again.

I replaced the radiator and upper/lower hoses on my M1031 over the weekend.

Fixed my M1031 generator today with the modern controller that b4thundr has been selling here. It takes the place of all those components next to the electric panel with one simple controller only using 6 wires. All the other parts were fine, throttle actuator and magneto PTO sensor. It is very simple to install and only took me about an hour. The unit needs to be programmed to work with the M1031 systems, it cannot just be bought off the shelf, but b4thundr takes care of the programming. My generator only had .7 hours on it when I bought the truck, it now has .9 hours. The 120v works testing a few power tools and also the air compressor works great. So finally my M1031 is complete with working generator.


Before with the old complex system. I tried everything I could to get it working, but nothing.

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After with the Woodward Apecs controller. Worked immediately, did not have to tweak anything.

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Just a few action pictures of my M1031 at the local OHV park from February 2013. I had to winch a M1009 out of the mud with my 12K Badlands winch.

UPS delivered the window sash parts today from LMC Truck along with the rest of the window seals. Sanded, primed and painted the inside of the tailgate and rear window seal areas, then installed the rear window. Hope to install the rear window seals by Sunday.

FatBuddhaBoo said:

UPS delivered the window sash parts today from LMC Truck along with the rest of the window seals. Sanded, primed and painted the inside of the tailgate and rear window seal areas, then installed the rear window. Hope to install the rear window seals by Sunday.

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When you are installing the window felt, use some spray silicone. It makes the windows slide better. I buy it at the parts house for ~$5 a can. DON"T use the white grease type. Also keep the spray off the any thing you might want to paint.

The spray also works wonders on all the rubber seals. Keeps them plyable

Mainsail said:

We used the M1009 to get away from the drunks, the all-night fireworks, and the drunks with fireworks. Headed up to a very secluded spot in the Olympic Mountains where silence was indeed golden.

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Pugent Sound, used to scuba there few times a week. Head out the back gate from Ft. Lewis and hit the water, those were good times. My commander was a NAUI instructor, she got me hooked on diving to get away from all the trouble that young soldiers get into. Geoduck and crabs we used to catch...

Replaced the key ignition switch, new air filter, battery, and fuel filter. I attempted to start it. Lights and power are there, but it wouldn't begin to turn over.

I just bought her recently and these were my first attempts and bringing her back to life after sitting for ten years.

I dropped the drain valve and cant find it.

Left a part off when replacing the steering wheel.

And, my wife is now convinced i am completely insane.

Not a bad week.

I_Publius said:

Replaced the key ignition switch, new air filter, battery, and fuel filter. I attempted to start it. Lights and power are there, but it wouldn't begin to turn over.

I just bought her recently and these were my first attempts and bringing her back to life after sitting for ten years.

I dropped the drain valve and cant find it.

Left a part off when replacing the steering wheel.

And, my wife is now convinced i am completely insane.

Not a bad week. View attachment 441482
View attachment 441484
View attachment 441485

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I was wondering how you were coming along on it ?

To I_Publius, (Not gonna quote the pics again)

Looks like I was correct seeing that it had A/C and was converted over to 12v as the A/C compressor is where the alternator should be.

I can see you are pretty mechanical, so that will come in handy with getting that all fixed up. Just make sure you hook the batteries up for 12v (Pos to Pos and Neg to Neg), do not want to burn anything out.

Not bad....just the little things. I was afraid i wouldn't remember how to turn a wrench after 20 plus years, but its coming back...slowly.

Next, Once I find the drain valve for the filter I will work on the electrical and see if I can get her to crank.

K9Vic:

Thanks for the heads up on the electrical. I gave it a shot yesterday as far as connecting the batteries and hope I did it correctly. I just tried to use a little common sense and followed the cables to the firewall, to the chassis, and then to the electrical box and guessed from there.
I will be sure to look for the diagram just to make sure everything is connected properly before attempting to start again.

I did not see any smoke or feel that the cables were hot after attempting my test yesterday, so I hope that is a good sign.



Thanks again, and I look forward to getting to know you guys more as I go along.

Since it has to be 12v, do not go by the CUCV TM on how to hook it up in series (very bad for 12v). It is hook up as any civilian GMC/Ford/Dodge diesel is with the batteries in parallel.

You want to do the bottom parallel method for 12v.


This document may help to explain how a CUCV is converted, the Roscommon 12v conversion is very the most recommend method for the CUCV.
http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf

That is what I have been looking for. Thank you for sharing that bit of information.

Changed my leaky hydro-booster with a NOS unit. Me plus one helper, done in an hour and half.

Fed OLIRON a mud snack at a local hole(Concord NH "Slaughterhole"), only got stuck once (mismatched 31'' tires got me hung up on the center hump of the 35'' runs), got out of another set of ruts with 4-lo)), only one pic came out good, front pic shows mud on the roofline & the damage still from my Jan. slide off a mountainside. Mud even inside.. As far as other things done to my CUCV, New work schedule means I can't do much of my own work, tomorrow buddies @ garage that I went to this hole with are going to do rear diff seal and transfer case level/seal. So that's what has been done to OLIRON lately.

Changed oil, filter, and windshield wiper fluid. Next are hoses and coolant.