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Steering column change

Gunzy

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I'm new and was wondering if anyone had converted the steering colmn/wheel assy in an M939 series truck to a GM tilt column with use of all the switches? I like the idea of a key start system and canceling t/s switch. I'm a mechanic and don't see a problem with the 24 volts as these are just switches and have no electronics thay would be voltage sensitive. Thanks for any input.
 

Gunzy

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I take it that no replies means no one has done this. Does anyone have an opinion on this?
 

Suprman

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I have a keyed ignition in both of my 5 tons and they both have self canceling blinkers. I did not change the column I wouldn't know where to start with that one I would like a little thicker steering wheel.
 

phat6

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I have a keyed ignition in both of my 5 tons and they both have self canceling blinkers. I did not change the column I wouldn't know where to start with that one I would like a little thicker steering wheel.
Been searching for an answer on the site, but have not found one. What make/model keyed ignition did you use for your 5 ton? Was it a drop-in/no-mod swap? Which 5 ton do you have? I am looking for a drop-in keyed ignition swap-out for an M925A2.
 

Suprman

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Any good quality marine type 3 wire ignition should work. You want one that allows power to the run lead while you are cranking or the fuel solenoid will not be engaged. Sealed ones with leads coming off are the best you can crimp or solder packard connectors onto the leads so no cutting truck wires. You will have to make the mounting hole a little larger.
Will
 

phat6

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Thanks.

Anyone have the specs for which the switch needs to be rated? Obviously do not want to put something in that cannot carry the appropriate loads. Would this work? It looks well sealed, but is only rated for "5A at 24V":



Also, does anyone know the size of the mounting hole, stock and if there is plenty of clearance behind the mounting hole (or if this area is tight/restricted)?

Would like to find a robust, drop-in, keyed replacement.

Any good quality marine type 3 wire ignition should work. You want one that allows power to the run lead while you are cranking or the fuel solenoid will not be engaged. Sealed ones with leads coming off are the best you can crimp or solder packard connectors onto the leads so no cutting truck wires. You will have to make the mounting hole a little larger.
Will
 
Last edited:

Suprman

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I believe the ones I use are 10a rated. It needs to have off-run-crank with crank spring return to run. It needs to provide power to run while cranking. I have done several keyed ignitions I got one at west marine once it looked fine but the truck would only crank so I metered it and in crank it would not give power to the run lead. I called the manufacturer and he stated "my switches are not made for Diesel engines" so I told him that was something that probably should have been stated on the package at which time he hung up on me. They do have several at west marine that will work though. I have used the cole Hersee ones before with good results. All you are really doing is engaging a relay when you crank the relay does the high current work.
 

Gunzy

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How about just using a keyed on/off switch to replace the battery switch? Not sure what it would need to be rated at, but it just controls the relays in the ignition protection box from off to on. I have been thinking about that as it would be much simpler than doing the actual ignition switch.
 

Suprman

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It takes me about 15 minutes to make up and install the ignition switch. I make them plug and play. The hardest part is making the mounting hole larger. Takes a minute or two with a christmas tree bit.
 

Suprman

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I will start making them with instructions if there is an interest. Sealed marine keyed ignitions with plug and play Packard connectors. They would be around 100 bucks plus shipping. I could do no sealed ones cheaper but you get what you pay for.
Will
 

phat6

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Jasper, IN
I will start making them with instructions if there is an interest. Sealed marine keyed ignitions with plug and play Packard connectors. They would be around 100 bucks plus shipping. I could do no sealed ones cheaper but you get what you pay for.
Will
I would pay it for one if it would drop in / no modifications needed. Not too keen on drilling out / enlarging the hole, though.
 

Suprman

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IMG_3405.jpgIMG_3401.jpgIMG_3406.jpgIMG_3407.jpg
Once you take off the original switch it will drop out under the dash you can see in the first pic it has packard connectors. Then you enlarge the hole so it will fit the keyed ignition. You dont have to go too much larger. I think the original hole is around 5/8" and the keyed ignitions use 3/4". Use a meter to find the 24V+ connect that and the run and crank leads you have a 50/50 chance if you connect them wrong just switch them. Test it and stuff it up under the dash back into the hole and put the nut on.
 

Suprman

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That one will work you just have to crimp on the packard connector ends you dont want to cut the truck harness. I used one of those once the color coded wires were not correct I had to use the numbers on the plug to figure out what was what.
Will
 

phat6

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Jasper, IN
Where do you get the packard connectors? Been looking at the web, but most of what comes up looks to be packard-delphi multi-pin stuff with plastic housings. Where do you find the rubber booted singles like those on the truck? Thanks again for the help.
 

Suprman

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Ebay or most of the resellers have them. You will have to make the hole larger. The switch you ordered has 2 wires for each position you may have to solder them together and onto a single wire use it. A way to cheat is to take an old headlight bulb and cut the leads off. They already have the packard connector on one end and are nice thick wires.
 

phat6

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Jasper, IN
Isnt this one a spring return to off? Earlier in the post it was said it needed to be spring return to on.
The website says spring return to off, but the datasheet says spring return to on. I think the datasheet is correct, and the website is incorrect, as why would you have a spring return from start to off?


Datasheet:
Functions and Circuits Available
Part Number Positions
Spring
Return*
95060 Series
With Key boot
Anti-Restart
95060
4 Acc Off Ign/Acc Start Yes Yes —
95060-01
4 Acc Off Ign/Acc Start Yes Yes Yes
95060-02
4 Acc Off Ign/Acc Start — Yes —
95060-03
3 Off Ign/Acc Start Yes Yes —
95060-04
3 Off Ign/Acc Start Yes Yes Yes
95060-05
3 Off Ign/Acc Start — Yes —
95060-06
3 Acc Off Ign — Yes —
95060-07
2 Off Ign/Acc — Yes —
95060-50BP
Same as 95060 with harness (Deutsch connector & wires)
95060-60BP
Same as 95060-03 with harness (Deutsch connector & wires)
Key is removable only at the Off position. *Spring return is to Ign/Acc position

Website:
95060-04 Sealed Key Switch, 3-position

With anti-restart.
10A at 12V, 5A at 24V, 3A at 36V and 2A at 48V DC.
Three positions: Off - Ignition/Accessory - Start. Spring return to Off.

Keyswitch is constructed from engineering thermoplastic and is fully sealed using O-rings and ultrasonic welding to protect switch to ip67 (with connector installed). Accepts Deutsch-type connector- see Harness Kit #31101

Plastic facenut and nickel-plated brass backing nut. Sipplied with two matching keys. With protective key boot.


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