Steering column change

Suprman said:

Ebay or most of the resellers have them. You will have to make the hole larger. The switch you ordered has 2 wires for each position you may have to solder them together and onto a single wire use it. A way to cheat is to take an old headlight bulb and cut the leads off. They already have the packard connector on one end and are nice thick wires.

Click to expand...

Thanks! Found the part numbers (MS27144-1 & MS27142-2) and did a search for those part numbers and found these:

• http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/rushcoq20msa.html

Would this one work. It says it needs only a 5/8" hole, so it may fit in the stock location. I'm a wiring idiot so thanks for any info.http://www.possummarine.com/p/14515/marpac_7-1155

I think you guys are over thinking a key. It would be simpler to just put a keyed on/off switch in place of the original battery switch.

Yeah, but it wouldn't be as cool.

I like having the keyed ignition maybe I'm just a creature of habit. The battery cutoff is ok I personally prefer the ignition though.

machinist75 said:

Yeah, but it wouldn't be as cool.

Click to expand...

What, the truck isn't cool enough? LOL

As the Spanish would say, Mas cool.

phat6 said:

Thanks for the pics. Makes it seem simple--simple for someone to hotwire too!

Ordered one of these:

• http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/63/95060-04/

Perhaps by some miracle it will fit. If not, I guess I will have to make the hole bigger. Will have to splice into the wiring also.

Click to expand...

Update: Switch does not come with the harness, so ordered the harness. So far my Bill of Materials (BOM):

• (1) Cole Hersee 95060-04 Sealed 3 Position Ignition Switch (http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/63/95060-04/)
• (1) Cole Hersee 31101 Deutsch Style Wiring Harness (http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/62/31101/)
• (1) 10 Pack MS27144-1 & MS27142-2 Connectors (http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/rushcoq20msa.html)

Hopefully that does it and I can crimp up a complete assembly and then swap out with the existing switch.

Looks like 3/4" hole, so will have to enlarge the hole in the dash. Confirmed the pin-out in the datasheet. Also confirmed spring return is to run, not to off:

Looking at Connector Receptacle on Keyed Ignition Switch:

Connector Key on Top
6 1
5 2
4 3


Key in Off Position:

Pin Connect
(1)-(6)
(2) Open
(3) Open
(4)-(5)


Key in On Position:

Pin Connect
(1)-(3)-(4)-(5)-(6)
(2) Open


Key in Start Position:

Pin Connect
(1)-(2)-(4)-(5)-(6)
(3) Open


Pin Off On Start
(1) +24V +24V +24V
(2) Open Open +24V
(3) Open +24V Open
(4) Open +24V +24V
(5) Open +24V +24V
(6) +24V +24V +24V


Pin
(1) +24V
(2) Start
(3) Accessories
(4) Run/Ignition
(5) Run/Ignition
(6) +24V

Let us know how to wire it up if you don't mind, for us electrical dummies.

You could leave the old switch in its place and use one of the milspec angle brackets, like the ones that are used for the convoy light switch and put it under the dash. That way no hole drilling leaving the dash stock and you can always go back.

One of these. But it would make it easier to get to and Hotwire.

http://saturnsurplus.com/electrical/0868.htm

Pin 1 will be the 24volts going to the switch when the main power switch is turned on. Pin 2 will be your crank and pin 4 will be the run voltage. It needs to be energized when you are cranking to enable the fuel solenoid or you will just be cranking and never start due to no fuel.