Unimog SEE issues

I drove my unimog flu419 about 87 miles today. I was able to get a temp tag online through Virginia DMV. The Unimog ran great, until we stopped to fuel up. When we went to get back on the road, I could not get it into 1st gear, or 3rd. We got going, and during the trip I was able to work through the gears somewhat. I also went to put it into 4wd, the light comes on, but I can't get the front wheels to engage. I got this thing stuck in my yard, and need 4wd to get unstuck. The backhoe ran perfectly at the original location, not even a drip. When I went to deploy the backhoe, it leaked hydraulic oil out of the main cylinder. Could driving 87 miles on the road really have messed this thing up. I have the operators tm, but need the maint. tm. Any help would be appreciated.

By the way, my hands hurt from gripping the steering wheel so tightly. Very scary after 35 mph.

I have been going to rocky mountain moggers site to look at the manuals when I am trying to figure things out on my SEE. I think they have all the manuals available. That is weird about your transmission issues. Maybe the oil is low and the gears got overheated? Mine is also sometimes finicky about going in 4WD. Sometimes I have to work the switch a couple times before I hear a puff of air sound and then I know it has activated. If I turn the switch with no air noise then it has not gone into 4WD.

My S.E.E. wouldn't go into All whee drive either. Crawl underneath and follow the front drive shaft back to the transfer case. You will see the arm that move for and aft that engages an internal coupler on that is on the other side where the front drive shaft goes in to the transfer case. Activation takes place by an air cylinder sitting on top of the transmission moving the arm for and aft. Have some one engage and disengage the all-wheel-drive. You shouldn't hear any air escaping just a slight mechanical noise. I had a loose air line connection to the cylinder. Had to partially tilt the cab to get to it. The TM has OK info on how to tilt the cab. You need to fabricate tilting brackets.

I have tons of online MOG manuals Military and civilian. I hate to duplicate what is on this site already. Let me know if you need these. Check in the TM site first. Note: no granny finger wagging. will pub pics.

I noticed the clutch res. Is low, this may explain not getting into 1st. When I turn to the 1st 4wd, I get no light, when I turn it all the way over I get the 4wd light, and I hear a spurt of air, but no 4wd. I will try tracing the lines. Anyone have a used windshield,$750 is a bit high for me now. Thanks again!

I just uploaded a bunch of S.E.E. TMs. Before the finger wagers attack you I suggest reviewing the TMs especially the operators manual.

Evidently I got so busy fixing the A.W.D. I forgot to take pictures. The first position of the switch is to engage the A.W.D the second position is the diff lock.

I read the operators manual before I touched the thing, I can't imagine trying to drive it with out reading that. When I turn the A.W.D switch, I don't hear anything, and no lights come on. When I go to the diff lock, I hear a pssst, and the light comes on. What about not being able to get it into gear. One reply suggested that I cooked the gears, but there was no smell, or weird sounds. Could the low clutch fluid be the culprit? Is there a civi version of MIL B-46176 clutch fluid?

August 6th, 2013. Jonster: You have found out why the Unimog SEE's generally didn't do above 35-40 on the road.. I won't say that you cooked the gears, but unless you did monitor transmission temperatures on the road, the possibility does exist. The S404.114's will do 50 mph, with variation in speed, but one always has to monitor the transmission temperatures, as these were not meant to be fast trucks with the standard axles and trannys..The wheelbase is shorter then the cargo variants and with the front and rear buckets on, they are way more unbalanced on the road then the cargo trucks, inasmuch as they behave like the tractors they really are. Good luck, a complete, good running SEE are generally worth their weight in gold when they are running right, but as road vehicles, a U1300L would have beat you up a little less. Good Luck!

How do you bleed the clutch? And does anyone know where to get a res.cap? mine is cracked bad. thanks for the help, don

New to the UNIMOG adventure, needing manuals big time!! Can you help??

A slightly dragging clutch will make shifting the lower gears more difficult. Your low clutch fluid could easily cause that. Try shifting with motor off. If shifting improves then that is confirmation. Bleed the clutch slave cylinder just like bleeding a brake slave.

The SEE transmissions do not suffer the same heating problem as 404 mog trans because they have bearings not sleeves at critical inter-shaft bearing points.