FMTV wheel and tire question

I have a set of FMTV wheels and 395/85/20 XZL tires with "run flats" already installed. I have a couple quick questions before i begin mounting them. Does any one know the torque spec for the 20 bolts that hold the 2 halfs of the wheel together? Does anyone have any good advice for installing the tires onto the rims? I figured with them being a two peice design and the run flats already installed it would be smooth sailing but ive never done it before.







I know this is a terrible Photo but it is all i have. You can see the insert installed inside the tire on the left. The middle peice is quite large with bolts holding multiple peices together, The material seems to be plastic and not rubber like some of the photos of other "run flats" again ive never seen anything like this before and looking for a bit of guidance

They are "ballistic run flats"

Those are beadlocks from what I can see. Not run flats. Clean the wheel mating surfaces completely. I like to grease the two mating surfaces between the wheels halves lightly. That helps prevent rusting. Lots of soapy water helps to seat everything. Tire wax on the o-rings. Use new o-rings.

The torque spec for the 20 bolts are: 210-240 lb-ft. I have been building military equipment for 10 years now and one of our designed trailers uses these wheels. We have specifically used Titan wheels for our application. You can also reference the information in TM-9-2320-366-20-4 (sec 12-2).

They are ballistic run flats, that picture sucks. My question is what to do with the small plastic looking ring?

From the picture above, the ring inside the tire is the bead lock. The ring is about 12-14 (?) inches wide and when the tire is not mounted the beads will touch the ring on both sides. BTW, they can be a real pain to get in and out. Personally I have used either or when it comes to bead locks or run flats. When we install the run flats they replace the bead locks. Now we are not using the ballistics type locks instead we use the mine resistant type (hutchinson).I am not 100% positive but I believe that the bead lock will get in the way of the run flat and vice versa. I did have a vendor tell us that he had a run flat that would fit over the bead lock (which you may have) but he admitted it was real difficult to get the tire on as the run flat needs to be adjusted properly to float in and near the center of the bead lock. Problem is that it makes the bead lock tight against the wheel. Also you can use vegetable oil on the entire assembly. It washes clean and has no serious affects in short or long term for material degradation.

AirRaid said:

From the picture above, the ring inside the tire is the bead lock. The ring is about 12-14 (?) inches wide and when the tire is not mounted the beads will touch the ring on both sides. BTW, they can be a real pain to get in and out. Personally I have used either or when it comes to bead locks or run flats. When we install the run flats they replace the bead locks. Now we are not using the ballistics type locks instead we use the mine resistant type (hutchinson).I am not 100% positive but I believe that the bead lock will get in the way of the run flat and vice versa. I did have a vendor tell us that he had a run flat that would fit over the bead lock (which you may have) but he admitted it was real difficult to get the tire on as the run flat needs to be adjusted properly to float in and near the center of the bead lock. Problem is that it makes the bead lock tight against the wheel. Also you can use vegetable oil on the entire assembly. It washes clean and has no serious affects in short or long term for material degradation.

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thank you for your help. You seem to be very knowledgable when it comes to these tires and I see your in houston. Do you have a shop?

No shop sorry. I am the Senior Engineer for my company and its my job to figure out how to make all the stuff we do for the military and homeland security. I have made quite a bit of different "stuff"

Oh you are welcome. Sorry I felt like I was being rude. By forgetting to say you are welcome

AirRaid said:

Oh you are welcome. Sorry I felt like I was being rude. By forgetting to say you are welcome

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Not at all, thanks for the help

Has anyone ran a 16.0 X 20 tire on a LMTV?

I’m running 1600’s on mines
They r very heavy so be careful trying to lift them, I change all 6 myself, you can’t pay me enough to Change them again...the hardest thing was the run flats

i did this

1) jack up truck
2) let air out....by removing valve stem
3) take off complete ctis valve 3/4 spanner or 19” also remove the Allen bolts
4) take wheel off truck I soak my bolts in oil since they were kind of rusty
5) lean the wheel up against the truck
6) remove bead lock bolts
7) rest wheel on ground flat
take some soap and soap it up real good
9) use some king of wedge and hammer it to break the bead
10) take another bar and work it around the wheel
11) turn wheel over and repeat the procedure
12) lean the wheel again the truck again
13) put a bucket in the ground and cut a piece of wood the size of the wheel dia
14) rest wheel on bucket
15) take a crow bar and work tire off the valve stem, it do get stuck on the run flats
16) when wheel is off push the run flats aside and use a 14 socket to remove the 4 bolts that is joining the run flat together
17) lift one side off and turn it while pulling the run flat up so it can come out twisting it out of the wheel
1 do the same thing putting it back into the new tire
19) add bolts back into the run flats
20)lean tire back into truck and put rim back into tire, I oil mines up real good so it slides back in
21) make sure and clean the o ring seal and oil it up before you put the bead lock ring back onto the rim
22) catch bolts and make sure you line up your bead lock so the valve stem goes into the designated hole

this procedure works for me, it took me about 2 hrs per wheel
a little note, after each tires install when u mount the wheel on the truck start it let the ctis run also put the air hose on that particular wheel, the reason is that if it has a leak you will know, because the controller in d cab will start to blink if any leaks, it’s harder to figure which wheel is leaking if you mount all 4 or 6 wheels...so after every install start the truck and verify it has no leaks.. also the left side of the truck bolts are reverse.....to slacken is clockwise...

good lock

Watch the difference in tire size and see how close the rear tires are

I'll add pictures, I added the tires and modified the metal panel that goes around the hydraulic tank.