M1070 Tech & Tips

Power and mileage

In stock form, the engine is detuned in military applications. Again, this is also where the DDEC computer is valuable. With those unlock keys and codes, the user can get in to things such as fuel pressure and cut off values, requested boost, speed limiter/governor, and fuel tank pressure timing as well as other tables and parameters. Remember my trucks motor had to be pulled? After it was re-installed, I had a civilian friend of mine who had this information and equipment get in to my trucks computer. I was driving the full system wide open, with a combat loaded M1A1 loaded, and was easily pulling past 65 mph. Also having this equipment will allow the owner to "tune", if you will, for modifications that are installed.


So, you say you want power? How crazy do you want to get and how deep are your pockets?


The air box retains quite a bit of heat. What I have done is remove the induction system from the turbo out off the truck. After de-greasing and thoroughly cleaning inside and out side of the parts, I wrapped the turbo mouth piece in a aluminized fire blanket and secured it with safety wire. For the air box, I covered the out side of it with about 10 layers of aluminum tape. From what the DDEC showed for IAT before and after was about a 20-30 degree drop in IATs. For the civilian owner, I would recommend coating both with lizard skin thermal coating or something similar. The sealing rubber flaps that are on the air box (they make contact with the hood), I would also remove and replace with something a little more sturdy and can create a better seal against the hood.

The exhaust manifolds work quite well, along with the crossover pipes. To improve turbo spool up time, I would wrap the manifolds and the crossover pipes in exhaust wrap/thermal wrap. A secondary, and nice improvement in doing this is reduced under hood temperatures. If you like to tinker and what sort, you can remove the manifold and port them and smooth out the in side of them. The total amount of material you can remove is about an 1/8 of an inch. And cause they are cast, smoothing out the inside is going to help flow and speed up velocity some. You could also do some port matching on the head, but I honestly don't see much, if any improvement being had there. Under the passenger side of the cab, behind what looks like a cage or shield, is the muffler. Ditch it and replace with a straight pipe. Doing this will help lower EGTs and increase turbo spool up time. Its also worth mentioning that replacing the inducer wheel, if yours is worn, is also going to bump up the power some.

The injection pump is a mechanical unit. Its worth it to have it re-built or get a new one. JP-8 is a very poor quality fuel and a low BTU potential and zero lubricity properties. With mechanical style injection pumps, they are dependent on the lubrication that the fuel provides for efficient and smooth operation. That being said, it stands to reason that after years of JP-8 use, the injection pump is due for a rebuild. If you decide to go the route of getting a new one, I recommend getting the 8V92TA pump. This pump can provide more fuel volume. The injectors on the motor are the smallest, in terms of orifice size and injection quantity, of all the injectors used in any of the 92 series motors. For the same reasons for the injection pump replacement, its strongly recommended to rebuild, or preferably, replace the injectors. The 8V92TA injectors inject up to 20% more fuel than the injectors that currently are on the motor.

After doing all the above modifications, whether rebuilt parts or the TA new parts, use the DDEC to unlock the fuel tables. In there you should increase the requested fuel pressure by 10-20% of the current value (for re-built parts), or 10% below the max allowable pressure for the TA fuel parts. While in the fuel tables, move the fuel cut off up. CAUTION: by doing this, your doing step 1 of 2 in the process of raising or eliminating the rev-limiter. Its on you and you alone if you blow your motor up from over revving it. Depending upon what version of DDEC you have and the motor has (they must be the same or else they will not communicate) you can also go in and adjust injection quantity. Of the 2 injectors I have mentioned, the TA injectors will naturally flow and inject more fuel. In ether case, a safe upper limit of 70% of the max injection quantity is about all you are going to want to do. CAUTION: Its on you if you fry your injectors or do catastrophic damage to any parts of the engine including, but not limited to, the turbo, pistons, or connecting rods from to high of EGTs or other problems that associate with injecting to much fuel or exceeding the capabilities for the fuel system components.

In doing the above stated modifications, the end user will see up to about an 8% increase in fuel mileage, as long as the operator can restrain his or her right foot. These modifications will also increase the power out put significantly. To my knowledge, no one has put a HET on a dyno, much less a before and after comparison of these, or similar modifications. But I can assure you, the new found power can be felt and experienced, especially when loaded.

For those looking for a max effort build, every component besides for the block and water pump should be installed from the 8V92TA. The 8V92TA is the marine application engine. Currently used in tug boats and mid sized luxury crafts, this engine has a lower compression ratio, significantly larger valves, a larger supercharger and twin turbo system; besides for the fuel components that were mentioned above. A completely custom air intake system is needed as each turbo has its own air filter and subsequent induction tubes. The same modifications as above should be performed in regards to the air intake system and the exhaust system and thermal insulation. A full porting and polishing of the exhaust ports, and port matching to the manifolds (in conjunction to a more radical manifold porting) should be conducted for maximum flow and volume. The intake ports should also get treated to a port job as well as swirl polishing. Swirl polishing is a method of smoothing the intake ports of the head, but promotes the incoming air to spin, or swirl, for increased fuel atomization properties. A completely custom exhaust system from the turbo(s) back will need to be fabricated. I would go no smaller than a 4 inch pipe off the turbo. After they merge, nothing less than 6 inch pipes should be used. The factory 8V92TA is rated up to 750 horse power. for comparison, the HETs 8V92 is rated at no more than 500-ish horse power.

In terms of the transmission, there is not a lot you can do. The cover over the dash, where the heater controls are located, along where the PTO, gas particulate filter, and chemical alarm switches are can be removed using a Philips head screw driver. Its held on by 6-8 screws. Down in side there are 2 nobs, they resemble the nobs that are on your water spicket for your garden hose. One will be higher in relation to the other. These adjust the air pressure going to the transmission and the transfer case. I cant remember what one controls what part. The transfer case nob adjust the air pressure when engaging and holding the selected range in the transfer case. The other one adjusts the air pressure going to the transmission for controlling line pressure, thus shift firmness and holding/clamping force applied by or on the clutches and bands. ADJUST AT YOUR OWN RISK! messing ether of these adjustments up will result in drive line component failure. A worth while modification is fixing any leaking transmission lines and fittings. if the lines are not braided stainless steel lines, now would be a good time to replace them. Installing a larger transmission cooler comes highly recommended. I have seen these things get north of 240 degrees with out trying to hard! Another reason for switching to full synthetic. As long at the transmission shifts as I described previously, I would leave it be with the addition of the braided lines and larger cooler.

In terms of system cooling, this thing gets hot with out trying. First thing I would do is thoroughly clean the radiator to ensure as much air can flow through it as possible. If its not known when the coolant was last changed, and it most likely never has, I would flush it and give it fresh coolant and a fresh coolant filter. Check to see if the upper coolant hose is not in contact with the turbo crossover pipe. This is a 50% possibility and doesn't take long to fix; trim the hose. Also fixing any leaking oil lines should be done. As with the transmission lines, if they are not steel braided lines, replace them for the steel braided lines at this time. Ether installing an oil cooler, or installing a larger oil cooler is also highly recommended. With the hood raised, you will see a black rubber sealer type thing on ether side of the radiator. Its intended function is to keep air flowing through the radiator as apposed to around it. It fails at doing its job. Installing a better sealing rubber that will have more contact with the hood is a good start. There still is a decent gap between the radiator and the mounting frame of this rubber thing. Filling this gap on ether side should force air through the radiator. What we have used for this is cutting and bending a thin piece of sheet aluminum and using some nuts and bolts to secure it. At the bottom of the hood sides, where the fenders are when the hood is down, there is a piece of rubber that seals the hood to the top of the fender. Its only purpose is to dampen hood vibrations. You can unbolt it from the hood, I just cut it off flush with the hood. Doing this increases air flow in to the engine compartment, lowering under hood temps.

The next topic will be everything I know and have done to make things more comfortable and user friendly. Stay tuned

Creature comforts and user friendly

So far we have covered major operations, power and efficiency modification. Here I will cover tips and modifications to make the vehicle more comfortable and user friendly. Some of the following information might not apply to civilian use, as this information is stemming from 2 tours in Iraq and my current tour in Afghanistan. It is during these deployments that I have been forced to basically live in the truck, as my home on wheels so to speak. So, "sit down, shut up, and hold on" cause here we go!

The front 2 seats are not to comfortable for long hours in the saddle. What we have done for this is replace the seat and back cushions and covers with those of other vehicles. The hardest one to convert, but by far the troops most favorite is the M915 seats. Your on your own if your attempting to do this modification; I've done it multiple times, and every time was different as you just have to make it work as you go. To try to keep the interior as clean as possible, and to better control the climate with in the vehicle, we would order new door seals, or weather stripping, and run a small bead of RTV or other type of sealant that was available to us along the inside of the stripping where the edge of the cab or door would fit in to, and install the stripping. Also, any exterior holes; like where the work light cords come threw the cab, we would also RTV the holes to close them up. In the up armored cabs, I used Liquid steel, the army's equivalent to JB weld putty, to block off and seal these gaps and holes. When replacing the wind shield, we would also place a small bead of RTV on the cab portion of the truck, and in the channel that the glass was to fit in to the window seal. With out this small detail, water would leak in to the cab during rain storms. You can also do the same for the port windows located on the bottom of each door and the ones located on the back portion of the cab sides. The back glass has never shown to leak and is non-existent in the up armored cab (with the armor package installed, the only windows you have are the ones in the doors and the windshield). To further insulate the cab, I have done 2 different things. The first one is to take out all the flooring and green stuff covering the walls and the roof (in my case the adhesive had gone bad and the foam on the back side of the green stuff had degenerated to the point it had to be replaced), and absolutely covered every thing besides the windows of the interior of the cab with 5 or more layers of the aluminum tape. The when the new interior coverings arrived, glued them to the tape. The second technique I have done is to glue down aluminum fire blankets down and re-cover the blankets with the interior coverings. Doing the same thing in side the Dog house storage compartment helps out a lot. If you intend to install the A/C system I talked about earlier, cover the inside of the dog house first before you install the A/C system. Tinting the window obviously helps. I have seen some trucks with the air ride seat system out of a M915, plumbing in to the CTIS manifold that is located under the drivers seat, but I personally have never attempted this. The back seats convert in to bunk beds. There is a lever on ether side of the back portion of the back seat. Its down torts where the bottom portion of the seat meets the back rest portion of the seat. With one person on each side, lift the lever. holding the lever up, grab the bottom of the back rest portion and lift up. It will pivot out and up, with the top part of it being the rotation or pivot point. In the roof there are 2 hooks, there are 2 cables that hook in to the hook and the other end wraps around a nob, for lack of a better word, on the seat portion. One cable on either side, and you now have a sleeper cab, with the top bunk able to hold 350lbs.

As you sit in the drivers seat, next to the ignition switch, there is a 24 volt power source. If you can get hold of the work light extension cord, cut one end off the cord. Buy the largest power converter you can. Hard wire in the power converter to the extension cord. Plug in the cord to the power source, and now you have a standard 12 volt power source. I did this but with the power converter out of a MRAP MAXX PRO PLUS (1,500 watt), and had a mini fridge plugged in and my lap top plugged in and charging with out an issue. You want some tunes, I got you covered.
Go buy some 3/4 inch plywood, a tube of silicon caulking, and a few nuts and bolts, some high strength spray adhesive, an automobile style AM/FM CD player head unit, 2 8 inch audio speakers, wires for the speakers, some wire connectors so you can disconnect the speakers, a way to plug in a power source ensuring you have plenty of cord length, and some low pile indoor/out door carpet.

Mark out 6 squares that are about 10 inches by 10 inches. Cut them out as straight as possible. Take one and measure for the head unit to mount in. Take 2 more and mark out the spots for the speakers to go. Cut out those holes. test fit the head unit and speakers in to the holes. also test fit this assembly together to ensure none of the component are interfering with each other. you do this by taking one of the squares and laying it flat out. take the 2 squares with the speakers installed and hold them at the left and right sides, lined up with the blank piece. next take the piece with the head unit mounted to it and place it at the leading edge of the blank piece. If all is good, use finishing nails to hold the pieces together. On the edges where the wood peace touch, run a bead of the cocking on the inside of the box, and a thin layer on the out side of the box (you should have a completely sealed box with holes for 2 speakers opposite of each other, and a slot for the head unit). After its finished drying, use the spray adhesive to completely cover the box in the carpet. Give the adhesive time to cure and set. Using a new razor blade, cut out the carpet covering the areas where the speakers and head unit goes, and wire every thing up, placing the extra wire in side the box. Do a final install of the speakers and head unit. Plug it in to make sure it works. You now have a portable radio for your HET. That's the removable version. I have found this works great cause you have the radio to listen to, or you can play a CD. As long as you didn't skimp out on speaker quality and power needs; 3 way speakers that can take a higher amount of power, an added bonus is to get these speakers in a shallow configuration, and you didn't skimp out on head unit quality; internal equalizer and amplifier, powerful antenna, high power out put, same shallow configuration, the sound quality and volume should be great. Of course you can build a larger audio system, I've seen it during my second deployment, but I find it pointless when compared to the radio box.

The side mirrors are extendable by loosening the 2 bolts on the upper and lower arm, before the large mirror. I personally am not a fan of doing this. first, replace both the big side mirrors with the ones that are on a PLS, with the spotter mirror on the bottom portion of the mirror. Don't tighten them down all the way. NOTE, make sure you re-use the HET hardware, and re-install it the way it came off. the drop down spotter mirror that is on the bottom of the mirror frame, it came off went you took off the big mirror, don't re-install this. Make sure you have 2 more per side, of the plastic washers, 2 metal washers, 2 lock washers PER SIDE. The X that the 2 mirror frame support brackets make, remove the middle nut and bolt. You might have to get a new nut and bolt (lock nut) for each side as the nut and bolt you just removed is not always long enough. This is where it gets hard to explain with out physically showing you, so I'm going to do my best. the spotter mirror has an L bracket attached to it. The bottom of the L, for the drivers side needs to be facing out, like a back wards upper case L. It mounts behind the X. Hard ware goes in this order; Bolt, lock washer, metal washer, X, metal washer, plastic washer, mirror, plastic washer, metal washer, lock washer locking nut. Don't tighten down all the way. Ensure the spotter mirror is level, and holding it level, tighten that sucker down good n' tight. Bend the upper part of the L bracket to position the spotter mirror so that it sits in the closest open space on the X to the door, and is as flush as possible with the X bars, but not counter sunk. The trick to this is to not bend the mounting tabs on the back of the mirror or the area near where the mirror mounts to the bracket, this need to be straight to the mirror doesn't flop around on you. Get in the drivers seat and shut the door. adjust the newly installed spotter mirror where you like it, you will only have tilt up and tilt down adjustment though. Once its positioned, tighten down the mirror to the bracket. Do the same thing the big mirror. The only difference on the passenger side is when you install the spotter mirror on the X, it mounts with the lower tab facing out, opposite of the drivers side. Also when you bend the bracket, it goes accost the X, towards the big mirror. Do your adjustments from the drivers seat, in the same adjustment order and tightening order as well. Now that every things set, tighten down the mirror brackets them self to keep the mirrors from folding in or out on you. After doing all this, the only blind spots on the truck should be around the front tires forward.


There are 2 makes of tires for the HET, Michelin and Goodyear. For on road traction and ride comfort, the Goodyear tires by far out perform the Michelins. The draw back is decreased tire life. The Goodyear tires are a softer compound rubber. But for durability and off road traction, the Michelins with their harder compound rubber are better. Plus the tread design of the Michelins are more aggressive of off road.

For cup holders, buy the window mounted plastic ones and cut the lip off the normally would slide between the glass and the door. drill a hole in to it and mount it on the dog house using one of the dog house cover screws and a washer. Also, for smokers or for additional storage, get a plastic instant oatmeal or similar container you can buy at local gas stations. Enjoy the food inside and wash out the container. again drill out a hole in the bottom of it and mount it using one of the dog house bolts and a washer. Speaking of smokers, the gas particulate filter also works great for filtering out smoke. just ensure the white charcoal cans in the back of the cab, usually on the walls, have all the tubes connected and secure in all places.

If you want to use the truck to sleep in, and want a cheep way of blocking out the windshield, you need some 550 cord, a length of PVC or similar tube/pipe, and a blanket; I find the old wool army blankets are best. If needed, trim the blanket and pipe to fit between the outer most parts of the sun visor mounts. Take the blanket and lay it out flat. lay the pipe over the blanket and position the pipe on the blanket so that the blanket, when folded over the pipe, has about and inch of contact after its folded over. Unfold the blanket and run a fat bead of super glue or hot glue over the pipe and glue it to the blanket. On the exposed side of the pipe, do this again, but this time fold the blanket over the pipe. lastly, glue the blanket to its self. After drying, roll the blanket up with the pipe in the center. secure the 550 cord to one of the visor brackets. Now run the cord threw the center of the pipe, and attach the cord to the other visor, getting the cord as tight as you can. The sun visors in the up and stored position will hold the blanket in place. when you want to deploy the blanket, open both sun visors and pull the blanket down just as you would your shades at home. When not in use, roll the blanket back up and secure with the visors again.

When it comes to crew comfort and setting up the cab, your imagination is your only limitation. I've seen guys put carpet on the dash, on the dog house cover, non-slip padding covering the dog house, automatic spray air fresheners mounted to the back wall, even replace the map lights with MRAP LED interior lights and replace the cab light with one from an MRAP.

The factory head lights, well, suck. If you can get your hands on them, get a set of LED head lights. The install is nothing more than a head light replacement. The back work lights can be adjusted to angle them where you would like them. Also try to replace the bulbs with LEDs. The work lights are also make great back up lights. To be honest, every light on the truck can be replaced with LEDs. I don't see why we would need additional illumination for state side civilian use, but if an owner would like it, message me.

If any one has any other questions about any thing pertaining to the M1070, please feel free to ask me. I would be more than happy to answer as best as I can.

My next post is going to be information and advice that was not yet covered.

When stuck, heavily loaded, BE CAREFUL reversing. You can and will twist, snap, and break drive shafts. The weak point is the weld to the U-joint.
Never neutral ride down hill. If your moving, never spend any time in neutral. That's how you fry your transmission pump and possibly your converter.
Only drive with the drive line locked (inner axle lock) off road, or in a straight line on road. Axles are not cheep to replace. But, locking the inner axle increases pulling power when trying to clime a hill with maximum payload.
It shouldn't take much force to shift the transfer case. All you have to do is get the truck to roll, shift transmission in to neutral, and while still rolling, apply pressure to the transfer case shift lever. You might hear and feel some grinding, easily slow the truck some, when every thing is lined up it will slip right in. Applying too much force can snap the turn buckles that attach the cable to either the shifter or the transfer case its self, leaving the transfer case stuck in neutral. you can manually shift it under the truck, but that's a PIA to continue to do when driving, and is embarrassing.
The total fuel capacity is 260-280 gallons. disregard the fill lines on the tanks. DF2 doesn't expand that much, on top of each fuel cap is a spring loaded pressure relief valve, and the fuel tanks need to be pressurized any way to push fuel to the injection pump. Always operate with both tanks open. In the -10 it shows the location of the tank valves, and shows you how to tell if they are open.

The drivers side tank holds about 100 gallons, passenger tank holds about 150 gallons.

Its a good practice to run a fuel additive every load of fuel. If you have the CTIS on and the truck sounds like a trumpet, the CTIS manifold is bad.
If you have one axle that goes flat every night, and the tires are not leaking, the CTIS gaskets in the axle are bad.
When reassembling the rim and tire, ALWAYS replace the round rubber gasket, this seals the tire for the CTIS to work properly. Always ensure this gasket stays in place and doesn't roll, twist, or any thing else that would be considered funny business.
The wheel and tire assembly is about 600lbs. Don't drop it rim side down. It would be less of a financial burden to have it fall on you and pay the medical bills; That CTIS valve is that expensive, if you can find one.

It does not have ABS, and it will lock the tires on you. Keep that in the back of your mind.

You put it in gear, release the brakes, and mash the gas but the motor doesn't respond. Check the throttle pedal. Behind it there is a wire connector and it can get dirty in there or loosen. disconnect, blow out both sides of the connection, and re-connect. throttle should work.

When you hear that little air discharge sound when you release the throttle, every thing is ok, you don't have an air leak. At predetermined throttle positions and engine loads, the DDEC will use the air pressure from the air tanks to increase the pressure in the tank, helping to force feed fuel to the motor.

If you cant stop or swerve in time to keep from hitting something that's alive, don't torture it by even trying to slow down; throttle up and cause it no pain.

The rear axle steers as well. don't panic when you see the tires back there start to turn, unless your not turning the wheel.

The Jake brake burns oil, even if its not actively in use. So don't turn it on unless you must. Also understand that it will not actively engage unless the motor is turning 1,500 rpm or greater, and not in first gear.

Drive it like you stole it. The harder it works, the less issues your going to have.

Great info. Yes the right side mirrors are terrible, i'll keep my eyes out for some PLS mirrors now. I find the interior lights work fine, the only thing I don't understand is why the work lamps are so dim. I plan on upgrading headlamps soon. I have a question on what the mounting plate and wires that are on left side above driver. I could not find it in the TM. I plan on mounting a CB there.

goodguyzy said:

I have a question on what the mounting plate and wires that are on left side above driver. I could not find it in the TM. I plan on mounting a CB there.

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It is where the chemical detector alarm goes. The detector itself goes under the hood in front of the air cleaner.

Well dam!!!!!!!!Now I gotta get a HETT!!!!

One issue you didn't address is the oil consumption of the Driptroit. When I drove over the road I ran a Kenworth with a V-8 Detroit in it. On a run from GA to CA and back we would add several gallons of oil. We called them Yamahas because like a two stroke motorcycle they burned oil to lubricate the cylinders.
Was this an issue with the HETT?

wreckerman893 said:

Well dam!!!!!!!!Now I gotta get a HETT!!!!

One issue you didn't address is the oil consumption of the Driptroit. When I drove over the road I ran a Kenworth with a V-8 Detroit in it. On a run from GA to CA and back we would add several gallons of oil. We called them Yamahas because like a two stroke motorcycle they burned oil to lubricate the cylinders.
Was this an issue with the HETT?

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absolutely not. Your OTR truck engine was bad. Or you had the jake break on at all times of engine operation, the turbo seals were going bad, piston rings not sealing properly, and/or the valve seals were worn or bad.

Although it is true that this motor is a 2 cycle engine, it doesn't operate the same way a 2 cycle gas engine does. let me explain:

A 2 cycle diesel has a piston with abnormally longer side skirts than that of a 4 cycle diesel. All the valves in the head are intake valves. In most cases, its also a direct injection motor. As the piston travels past top dead center, the combustion happens, and the bowl in the face of the piston captures this. as the fuel burns it expands, thus forcing the piston down. The injector continues to inject small amounts of fuel during its injection cycle, increasing the amount of force on the piston face. After the combustion process is completed, or right before it is finished, the piston travels past an opening in the cylinder wall; the exhaust port. As this happens, the intake valves open and flow tremendous amounts of air in to the cylinder, forcing out the exhaust gasses threw this exhaust port. As the piston moves back up past the port, the incoming air is trapped and begins the compression stroke. As the piston travels to about +3~+5 degrees past top dead center, the injectors starts its injection cycle and the process starts over.

These engines don't have oil being sprayed on the bottom of the piston cooling the piston. If, and that a big IF, there is any oil that might some how make it in to the exhaust port, its very minimal. I personally have run a M1070/M1000 combination with an 80 TON load flat out, as fast at it would go for 27 hours straight, only stopping to refuel, and that was a hot refuel. At the end, the engine only consumed about 1/2 a quart of oil. Its for these reasons that constant vigilance of the motor and staying on top of all maintenance issues, no matter how small, is paramount in keeping the engine running properly. But we all should do this with all vehicles we drive.

I have HET specific manuals in PDF format now. I'm not sure where to post them or how on this forum. Please give me the guidance and direction so I can share this information please

PM patracy for the PDF question.

The location of the TMs is in the TM sub section, under current conflict vehicles. I'm gathering other information and data currently. I hope the information I provide is useful

Yes, very much. The mirror pictures that you took at Ft Hood help a lot. Info on all the special cab interior brackets (GPS, Chemical, Laptop) would be great. Also, OVM that you guys typically carry.

Well, those pictures were not taken in Fort Hood. More so Afghanistan. We don't have a GPS system specifically that goes in the truck. And I haven't seen a Chem. alarm system work in my military career. No lap tops ether. Having said that, if I start to get vague I'm sorry. Some stuff I cant explain to much in detail in regards to this.

We carry standard Harris radio mounts that most of the equipment for radio communications attaches to. Where the Chem. alarm mount is, that's where the radio speaker gets mounted. Where the "glove box" is on the passenger side, there is a mount that covers that. It holds our MTS. The MTS is all in one GPS and secondary communications. Kind of like a lap top, but not really. These mounts come, if I understand correctly, when the unit buys the system its intended to hold, if you will.

You have the standard OVM box that is directly under the cab on the drivers side. The additional OVM boxes come with the FRAG kits. The older one fits nicely on the passenger side of the cat walk, over the spare tire. I saw today that a member on here has one of these boxes, but I cant recall what thread or who it was. The newest OVM boxes are basically 2 full size Lockers mounted where the spare tire is supposed to go. When this kit is installed, the tractor spare tires is mounted on the goose neck of the M1000 trailer.

If you would like to see more pictures of these vehicles in action, I up loaded some pictures from this deployment on to my profile.

Also, If you think the M1070 is a beast, check out its new twin brother; the M1070A1. I can tell you from experience, this thing is 90% better than the original.

This mount is some of the pictures that im looking for. I've seen some threads on it before but have never seen any close up pics of the equipment, just that its the movement tracking system.

Thanks for the pics of the mirrors, im going to put that on top of my list of mods. Also would like to know what RPM you were running on the truck that you were running at 65 mph. It seems like it would be around 2600 and that's way higher than I feel comfortable.

Ahh great thanks Zy!! You got me coveting a HET now. Luckily they are way out of my price range. Hmmm, unless I sell....Arrrgh! I've got to stop this train of thought.

link to M1070 HET Unit level maintenance [FONT=Swiss721SWA,Bold][FONT=Swiss721SWA,Bold]TM 9--2320--360--20--3
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http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?116786-M1070-HET-Unit-level-maintance-TM

goodguyzy said:

View attachment 466902This mount is some of the pictures that im looking for. I've seen some threads on it before but have never seen any close up pics of the equipment, just that its the movement tracking system.

Thanks for the pics of the mirrors, im going to put that on top of my list of mods. Also would like to know what RPM you were running on the truck that you were running at 65 mph. It seems like it would be around 2600 and that's way higher than I feel comfortable.

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That looks like an MTS mount. If it is, It looks to be mounted wrong. There is a heavy 1/2 Plate that it is mounted to then the plate mounts to the dash. unfortunately I cant take pictures of the interior of the Trucks we have out here for operational security reasons. That and all over our rolling stock has been ether Turned in or signed over. I'll look around and see what I can come up with and repost when I can.

goodguyzy said:

link to M1070 HET Unit level maintenance TM 9--2320--360--20--3

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?116786-M1070-HET-Unit-level-maintance-TM

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That is the 3rd revision of this manual. Currently there is 1 more update, but hasn't become public yet. After looking at this TM, some of the operating principles of the engine I described Were for What is currently being used in the conflict I'm currently serving in. The biggest difference is that the fuel injectors are fired off with a rocker arm and articulated by the cam shaft. DDEC 2 being used in these motors as well. I'm sorry for any confusion. I am gathering and up loading all this information on my own time when I'm not doing the soldier thing.

At 65 MPH, the truck was turning over about 2,500RPM. Some trucks will take it, some wont. The trucks we had in Iraq back then were Absolut work horses and we had both Allison and Detroit service techs there in our motor pool. I would never attempt any thing over 50 MPH in the trucks we have here in Afghanistan. They don't get worked that hard because there is no more American tanks in country, making the heaviest load we haul the KALMAR. Adding to that when they are being used, its a lot of idle time for them because of brigade SOPs. Due to road weight limitations and terrain limitations, The spend lots of time just sitting on line. Its sad in my personal opinion that this happens. What makes it worse is that 90% of the vehicles in country are getting cut up and sold as scrap, while the drive train components are the only parts to these vehicles that will ever see American soil again.

Some help with the mirrors. First is that the mirrors are universal; they are not Specific to what side of the vehicle they go on. second is that mirror frame/arm is the same one used on all OSHKOSH heavy vehicles; HET, PLS, LHS, and HEMMT including all their variants. The only one that I can tell you for sure had the spotter mirror in it is the PLS mirror, plus the PLS mirror looks to be slightly wider than the HETs. If you can grab a second set of the HET spotter mirrors, the ones you move in the description I gave, you can install them back in the factory location for additional visibility. Personally, I install these plus the PLS mirror, and move the factory ones in to the X. I adjust the one in the X so I can see the out side edge of the tire that is before the last tire and out from the sides of the truck with a good view back. then the big mirrors so I can see the outer/outer tires on the trailer and out away from the trailer, and finally, the factory spotter mirror I adjust so it starts where the big mirror end visibility and in to the area 1-2 lanes next to the truck/trailer. I hope this helps.

I've also found 2 online retailers for parts, equipment and special tools required for engine re-builds and overhauls. They also carry a wide variety of injectors, after-coolers, turbo blankets, and other marine specific parts. Keep in mind that these marine engines have a max factory power rating up to 750 horse power. Some are also DDEC equipped as well. An interesting find is that some of these engines are true twin turbo systems with the factory supercharger. You will need the MAP sensor with the ability to read the boost pressure this kind of system can produce and a DDEC calibration able to understand this pressure to run the motor. I'm also excited, but not 100% sure, that they make 2 different supercharger drive shafts. One of them has a higher gear tooth count, possibly enabling you to over drive the supercharger. I'm going to continue to research this as well as sources for parts and manuals for transmission upgrades and over haul parts/kits.

http://olive-drab.com/od_electronics_gps_mts.php link to the MTS. From what OD says it sounds like you could find this off the shelf, if your pockets are deep enough.