FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Field Mower on the SEE

I couldn't wait to weld up the brackets and hose management, so I put some tarp straps on it to hold the hoses from flopping and mowed the pasture, and it worked even better than I thought it would.

It has been rainy in the Puget Sound area lately so it was soft in spots, but I aired the XM47s down to 20 psi and it floated well and did not get stuck. It is pretty rough and hilly in places in this pasture, and it took quite a bit of adjusting to get the mower to stay the right height. You can see some spots where I dug in a bit with the nose of the mower and some bits of brush cut too high. I tried the float control but that was not helpful. Anybody tried adjusting the float level?
If you end up doing this, be sure you have a steering knob installed on the left spoke so you can keep the other hand on the loader controls. Also, I found it best to start in neutral, set the hand throttle at idle, let the clutch out easy and spin up the mower, then throttle up to about 1600 RPMs. Once the mower is going, put it in gear and start mowing. I ran it in compound low but if the pasture was level I could have gone up a gear or two. Corners were easy--the mower just sweeps across since it is so far out front and the SEE turns so tight. If you have to come up tight to a fence post, set the mower first, then spin it up and reverse away from the post. I had some 2-3 inch red alder about 6 feet tall that just disappeared chips-a-flyin' as I went over it and neither the mower nor SEE noticed it. No leaks, no overheating, no problems.
Here are some pics of the hose routing from behind the cab and where they come out in front:

That is 3/4 inch hose terminated in 12 JIC ends.

Here is a view of the same spots with enough attached to run the mower:

The valves only supply the hydraulics to the front so far, and I still need to add a bracket to attach them. I don't necessarily like the location in the front--leaves things vulnerable--think I will be changing that. The connectors are all 3/4 inch flush face with female NPT connections--I used 3/4 NPT x 12 JIC adapters to attach to the hose. I found the 45 degree adapters to be useful at both ends.
I'll post more as I button things up.

SpoiledSpud said:

I have an issue that I don’t recall seeing yet on the forum. The ring gear on the flywheel is damaged and will need to be replaced along with the starter. I’d like to understand the cause of the issue so hopefully many of the FLU experts are still monitoring this thread. If anyone is willing to part with an extra starter they have please PM me. Also, recommendations for sourcing the ring gear would be appreciated.
Thanks, Spud

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You can go the Mercedes route and buy it direct for high price with lots of shipping costs. Vons Mogs in New York is good first place for used and some advice. Scott at Expedition Imports is a close second. You could post a wanted ad on Unimog Exchange. Worth doing a search on Benz World and possibly posting a want ad there. I think starters are available from multiple sources in Europe.

The final piece of advice is if this a new acquisition and you don't know the overall condition of the vehicle think really hard and inventory everything the needs fixing before you start spending money on beat up SEE. The term nickel and diming applies although the nickels are 100 dollar bills and the dimes are bundles of 100 bills. There are some members on this site that went this way and found they got into a can of worms and ended up parting their first one out. Some even bought a second one and used the original for parts.

SpoiledSpud said:

I have an issue that I don’t recall seeing yet on the forum. The ring gear on the flywheel is damaged and will need to be replaced along with the starter. I’d like to understand the cause of the issue so hopefully many of the FLU experts are still monitoring this thread. If anyone is willing to part with an extra starter they have please PM me. Also, recommendations for sourcing the ring gear would be appreciated.
Thanks, Spud

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There was someone else that had a problem with their starter and their ring gear. As I recall he was able to replace the starter and clean up the ring gear.
In our modern, throw-away society, we forget that parts can be repaired, not just replaced. Any starter/alternator shop can repair the starter. On mine they put on a new gear, bendix, and solenoid for $75. Before I put in the days of labor to replace the ring gear, I would get a die grinder and dress up those teeth as best I could. you can even put a weld bead on each tooth then grind it. Pulling the engine is a big undertaking.

Toolee said:

It has been rainy in the Puget Sound area lately so it was soft in spots, but I aired the XM47s down to 20 psi and it floated well and did not get stuck. It is pretty rough and hilly in places in this pasture, and it took quite a bit of adjusting to get the mower to stay the right height. You can see some spots where I dug in a bit with the nose of the mower and some bits of brush cut too high. I tried the float control but that was not helpful. Anybody tried adjusting the float level?
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Nice XM47's! If you are using them mostly off-road, you can flip the fronts to traction mode. So many of them are run on highway as well, which is why you see them reversed on the front.

As to adjusting the float, it is a pretty simple system, coupling both sides of the cylinder to the tank so the weight of whatever is on the loader is supported by the ground. I don't think much adjustment is possible.

Thanks for the great advice Peak and Speed. If I can get in there with a tool, i’ll Try to reshape those teeth as a first step. My opportunity to tilt the cab. The starter looks to have replaced at some point and shows very little wear on the gear. Without history of this issue, my concern is preventing a reoccurrence. Could the starter have an incorrect gear that isn’t meshing properly? Could an incorrect 12V starter relay prevent full engagement?

As far as carefully evaluating as much as possible before going too far down the rabbit hole, I looked for the common problems before the purchase. The seller was very honest about the ring gear and the unit was used regularly until the final failure earlier this year. The unit appears to be in her original paint, no visible rodent damage, the ram seals look good, the original tires look new (except dry rotting), and even the antifreeze reservoir is undamaged.

So until I get her back to running, I won’t know the next challenge with it.
Spud

SpoiledSpud said:

Thanks for the great advice Peak and Speed. If I can get in there with a tool, i’ll Try to reshape those teeth as a first step. My opportunity to tilt the cab. The starter looks to have replaced at some point and shows very little wear on the gear. Without history of this issue, my concern is preventing a reoccurrence. Could the starter have an incorrect gear that isn’t meshing properly? Could an incorrect 12V starter relay prevent full engagement?

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I am unsure if the 12V solenoid would change things.
I make and sell the cab tilt brackets. I have an exclusive agreement to sell them through Expedition Imports, so go to their website for them.
When I needed a starter, I searched the NSN and found a brand new started for $35 on a popular auction site. A handy trick when looking for parts. I installed that starter and got my old one rebuilt as a spare.

Toolee said:

Thanks--they're worth it especially compared to the "performance" of the original, worn-out, bouncy-balloon-tires that were on it. So much better related to compaction, traction and floatation. I specifically asked for reversal on the front as I road'd it a bit at first. I am finding that I am drawn less and less to putting it on the road (unless I find a good A/M32K-4a or M1061trailer...) so have been thinking of reversing.
I bet I could put some wide wheels on the mower to hold it up a bit and not scalp things (best to cut a pasture to about 8 inches to encourage root growth and keep the eye pokers down). Do you know if the float affects both the height of the loader and the level of the bucket?
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I have an M1061. The FLU will tow it, but it is slow.

The float only affects the valve closest to the seat. So if you want to float your bucket instead of the loader frame, switch your hoses.* THere is a check valve on the loader. I forget where that is in the circuit and if it would affect float.

Vons Mog's makes a gear reduction starter that may fit (give him a call) if your is unsalvageable. I agree that a good starter shop may be able to rebuild the starter. They are very heavy duty construction units.

Toolee said:

I couldn't wait to weld up the brackets and hose management, so I put some tarp straps on it to hold the hoses from flopping and mowed the pasture, and it worked even better than I thought it would.
Also, I found it best to start in neutral, set the hand throttle at idle, let the clutch out easy and spin up the mower, then throttle up to about 1600 RPMs. Once the mower is going, put it in gear and start mowing.

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Congratulations! I like hearing when gambles pay off. And with the snowblower, I can relate.

I do the start-up routine differently, though. Maybe because I hate slipping clutches.
I always keep the hand throttle at a low idle, except when running the backhoe - then it's set at around 1,200 to 1,300 rpm.

My normal routine is to start the engine, maybe drive a bit to let things warm up, then engage the PTO and let that circuit warm up some. When ready, and moving at the desired rpm, I lower the loader (snowblower) and let it work.
If it ingests more than it can handle, I raise the loader a bit and keep going. It's easy enough to come back and deal with that section later, which I prefer over stopping and backing up. Again, I don't like using the clutch any more than I have to.

I have some chrome missing on the bucket cylinder.

How big of a deal is this and what should I do?

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Buy spare seals. Lots of them.
Or get a new rod.

I'm searching for a replacement reservoir assembly that is located under the hood on the passenger side. The TM has it listed as 2930-01-242-2991 TANK,RADIATOR,OVERF. Also, if anyone purchased multiple wiring diagrams from General Hood as is willing to part with one, let me know.
Thanks

Unless you're going for a concourse restoration, why not use a universal reservoir?
I did indeed buy two diagrams from G. Hood, and could sell one.

Just heard back from MB, they say they can get the 406-869-51-20 for about $30.
PM sent regarding the wiring diagram, thanks!

The FLU farm said:

Unless you're going for a concourse restoration, why not use a universal reservoir?
I did indeed buy two diagrams from G. Hood, and could sell one.

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SpoiledSpud said:

I'm searching for a replacement reservoir assembly that is located under the hood on the passenger side. The TM has it listed as 2930-01-242-2991 TANK,RADIATOR,OVERF. Also, if anyone purchased multiple wiring diagrams from General Hood as is willing to part with one, let me know.
Thanks

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You know that this is only whiper washer tank . Not necesarry for radiator and engine cooling.

Based on the hose routing, that was my guess as well. Replacement on order. Thanks!

rtrask said:

I have some chrome missing on the bucket cylinder.

How big of a deal is this and what should I do?
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That marks the beginning of the end for your seal. You will need to replace the rod at some point. If the flaked chrome is sharp, you can dress it with a grinder so it doesn’t cut the seal more. But the exposed steel will rust. So at some point you will be driven to action when it leaks more than you can stand.

Speedwoble said:

That marks the beginning of the end for your seal. You will need to replace the rod at some point. If the flaked chrome is sharp, you can dress it with a grinder so it doesn’t cut the seal more. But the exposed steel will rust. So at some point you will be driven to action when it leaks more than you can stand.

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Thanks Speedwoble, I did a web search and found a replacement (part no. G103351) at Greatlakes Equipment in IL. With shipping I can get a new rod delivered for < 410$. I searched Case Equipment Parts local to Denver, but almost no web hits and nothing specific to that part. I have not worked with hydraulics much but it does not look like it would be too hard to replace. The hardest part will be dealing with the torques involved and getting the gland nut started back on the rod. I assume that while it is apart I should replace all the seals. I have a leak on the boom cylinder that I need to fix as well. I remember a discussion earlier in this thread on repacking the boom cylinder, that maybe I don't need to tear it completely down if it is just the gland that is leaking. Does anyone have the correct part numbers for the seal kits?

You can replace the piston seals without taking everything apart, but not the rod's seal.