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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
Speaking of lighter notes, I must point out that I had a very nice visit with General Hood and his lovely wife last week.

Oh, and don't park where I did. I'll have to send him about a cubic yard of dirt to help fill in the rut I made.
The rut, yes, except it was much longer. Also, it was in an area of previously flawless lawn.
Ouch!

Well. He'll sure remember you from now on, won't he?!

Oh, gosh.

Looking for a silver lining, now that the digging is done, maybe General Hood could make that area into a little pond feature.

- You know, lemonades from lemons

- Before you ship him that dirt, maybe you should check with him
 
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The FLU farm

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Well, I'm not much for ride sharing. And it took me almost 12 hours to get there, 1,700 miles being a round trip.
But fuel is cheap in that neck of the woods, so it was well worth it.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
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Location
Alexandria, VA
Sorry about the mishap, General Hood, sounds like it was painful for everybody.

The gods get their laughs at the expense of all of us down here...

Too bad it didn't dig up a rare dinosaur bone, or a vein of gold or something.
 

MSMOG

Member
84
1
8
Location
Jackson, Mississippi
Been a while since I posted here. Glad to see the crew is still kicking. Just got my first HMMH delivered last night. Way cooler than I even imagined! Going to give it a tune up and start fixing stuff. Sheared pin on a crane cylinder, seat back cover eaten by mice, speedometer not working, oil pan gasket leaking, bent fork, and one of hydraulic gauges not showing fluid (even though tank is full). All in all, a very solid machine. Some minor rust issues in odd places, but nothing I can do about that. I find it a little odd that it shows about 800 miles but only 35 hours (yes, the 5 is the red number). The engine is black. I noticed a black engine on one of my other trucks. This HMMH has a 2011 rebuild. I've often wondered if the odometers got replaced or reset during a rebuild. And I have wondered if a black engine indicates an engine replacement at the time of rebuild. Anybody know? I recently talked to the local Caterpillar folks. They actually do some rebuilds for the military on some of the Oshkosh trucks. Guy told me they never reset the odometers.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,815
4,139
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Been a while since I posted here. Glad to see the crew is still kicking. Just got my first HMMH delivered last night.

The engine is black. I noticed a black engine on one of my other trucks. This HMMH has a 2011 rebuild. I've often wondered if the odometers got replaced or reset during a rebuild. And I have wondered if a black engine indicates an engine replacement at the time of rebuild. Anybody know?
The idea (or something like it) makes some sense.

Might be why it's not so:

- Makes too much sense.
 
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rtrask

Active member
332
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43
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
Does anyone know where to find the ambient temperature sensor / or have a better theory on why the starter relay is not energizing the ignition switch? (no it is not related to the clutch switch)

I have been working my way through the wiring issues. Fortunately I have not found any rodent damage to the wiring harness, but time and the elements have set me some challenges still. I replaced the big 8 position connector under the fuse box 2 that was crumbling to touch, and had a spot weld where it had arc welded to the blade in the connector. I have soaked the rest of the connectors in a vinegar/salt bath followed by a scrub with a brass brush and a soak in a baking soda bath. I then replaced all of the fuses, and the 5 relays. After all that the lights all seem to work properly, but as before when I turn the switch to the on position all the gauges except engine temperature peg out at the max values. and there is no voltage on the single wire that runs from the starter relay to the starter button. I have tested the wire from the relay to the switch and it seems fine. The clutch switch is energizing the relay under the cab on the right side, which I assume is where the transmission verifies that it is not in gear.

I am not sure where to go from here.
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
...and there is no voltage on the single wire that runs from the starter relay to the starter button. I have tested the wire from the relay to the switch and it seems fine.
There shouldn't be any voltage on that wire from the switch to the relay, unless you're pushing the starter switch. So my question would be if the switch has power in.

Ambient temp sensor? Not a clue. And even if I knew it wouldn't explain what it'd have to do with energizing the starter.
 

rtrask

Active member
332
220
43
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
There shouldn't be any voltage on that wire from the switch to the relay, unless you're pushing the starter switch. So my question would be if the switch has power in.

That is odd if I run a hot wire to the other pair of wires it activates the starter. I will have to take a closer look at it and repeat the experiment, maybe I got my wires crossed. :)
 
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rtrask

Active member
332
220
43
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
That is odd if I run a hot wire to the other pair of wires it activates the starter. I will have to take a closer look at it and repeat the experiment, maybe I got my wires crossed. :)
I finally got around to digging in and testing it a bit more, and did enough prep work so I can ask the question better and hopefully get better results.


I took the 2 pages of wiring diagrams from the Student manual on the 24 VOLT STARTING SYSTEM S.E.E and color coded the wires to make it easy to follow the discussion. Please see diagram below.

24_Volt_Starting_System_SEE_inColor.jpg


The red line (211) goes to the started switch from the started non repeat relay, In the diagram, and confirmed by manually tracing the wire it is plugged in to the 87a plug on the relay, which should mean default on. The dark blue wire (215) is connected to the 30 plug on the relay and has 24 volts on it when the key is turned on, and I have the clutch starter lock out depressed. If I bypass the relay and run a wire directly from the dark blue line to the switch the starter engages.


If I remove (342) the light blue line and plug in the relay the starter engages through red line, and the volt meter confirms 24 volts on the light blue line, so I think that the relay is OK (it is brand new too). So the real question is why does light blue have 24 volts on it?


Based on what the 87 plug of the relay being connected to yellow (281) and that wire connecting to the KBI cold start switch & Ambient Temperature Sensor, was that one or both of these components was bad which is why I wanted to know where the ambient temperature sensor is. After thinking about it further, that was probably a red herring. There are problems in the cold start system, the KBI switch seems suspect, and solenoid at the ether injector is frozen. Also why will it not start with the cold start switch?


I must have the light blue and possibly the purple line wired incorrectly, or perhaps there is an issue with the reverse polarity switch, ... IDK any suggestions are welcome.





 
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