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Thread: FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

  1. #4111
    2 Star General Migginsbros's Avatar
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    IMG_7666.jpg IMG_7159.jpg Kiesgrube2017 030.jpg

    3 Weeks ago our SEE got a new buddy.
    Itīs a 1977 MAN Kat1 5ton mil glw with frame mounted winch in front of the rear axel.
    More pics and informations about this MV see https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...mber-VOTE-HERE!

    We wish you and your families a very merry christmas time.

    Migginsbros

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    The FLU farm (12-20-2018)

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    Quote Originally Posted by peakbagger View Post
    Use a magnet to check the tube material. Steel will stick, stainless will not.

    There are far simpler alcohol injectors out there. The biggest PITA is matching up the threads.
    I had thought of checking with a magnet, but was unsure of the type of stainless that is used in the tubes. Some stainless is magnetic even if less so than steel. When I checked as you suggested there was a strong attraction so It is steel. In one of your earlier posts you had said you were going to use Nickel-Copper instead of Stainless. Did you? and would you recommend it? I have searched for 10 mm it is not plentiful, but our friends at BelMetric do sell a 25' roll for $100. I found another place that sells 6' for ~ 50.which should be long enough but I am undecided if twice the cost per foot is worth it.

    I am going to be out of commission for working on my SEE until March because because of a unexpected commitment. I still have a lot to get done, but hope to have it together by late spring.

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    Yes I did use copper nickel. I bought a length from Fedhill.com (a great source for copper nickel). Stainless also works but its a real PITA to bend. In my experience it makes a less reliable flare type fitting.

    I have a Bronco project that I just replaced all the brake lines with copper nickel.
    Unimog SEE, Unimog 1300L Ambulance

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    Migginsbros (12-22-2018), rtrask (12-22-2018)

  6. #4114
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
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    Is there any reason not to use a suitable hose instead?

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    Quote Originally Posted by The FLU farm View Post
    Is there any reason not to use a suitable hose instead?
    Well when you are ignorant like me, better to follow someone else's lead, but I was wondering if I could use braided Stainless Steel hose of appropriate diameter and just do a good job attaching it to the frame. It would save $$. Flu farm what would you consider appropriate hose?

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    I'd go with a bit of safety margin on the pressure, as if the regulator would quit working. Almost any hose with the correct pressure rating would have good abrasion resistance, and as long as the ID is the same or larger than the stock tubing, it should work fine, I'd think.

    If/when that day comes for me, I'd likely use a hydraulic hose from Surplus Center and adapt the ends as needed.

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    rtrask (12-22-2018)

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    Quote Originally Posted by The FLU farm View Post
    I'd go with a bit of safety margin on the pressure, as if the regulator would quit working. Almost any hose with the correct pressure rating would have good abrasion resistance, and as long as the ID is the same or larger than the stock tubing, it should work fine, I'd think.

    If/when that day comes for me, I'd likely use a hydraulic hose from Surplus Center and adapt the ends as needed.
    Since we work with a lot of hose four our HMMWV and CUCV cooling system upgrade kits I might make these if there is enough demand?

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    The FLU farm (12-22-2018)

  12. #4118
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    Quote Originally Posted by The FLU farm View Post
    I'd go with a bit of safety margin on the pressure, as if the regulator would quit working. Almost any hose with the correct pressure rating would have good abrasion resistance, and as long as the ID is the same or larger than the stock tubing, it should work fine, I'd think.

    If/when that day comes for me, I'd likely use a hydraulic hose from Surplus Center and adapt the ends as needed.
    The fittings are one advantage of using Nickel-Copper, since I think I can reuse most if not all from 10 mm steel to 10 mm cunifer, and not have to match up disparate threads. At the worst case I would just need 10 mm compression sleeves.

    I don't think the pressure requirements are that big of a deal since the manual says the compressor will output 105 PSI at 2600 RPM. I doubt that the compressor going down hill with the wind at its back it could make 150 PSI. 300 -250 PSI is pretty standard air hose rating and should provide a safe margin. All I would need to figure out is how to convert 1/2" NPT to M16x1.5.

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    Quote Originally Posted by peakbagger View Post
    Unfortunately I didn't keep track of sizes, I just used a lot of them.

    I have never seen metric tubing wrenches for the size fittings on some of the air system components. Maybe someone makes them that big but expect the cost would be significant. If I remember correctly the fittings are a combination of two possibly three thread systems. I don't think they were intended to have pipe dope or tape used on them. If I was to do so I would probably put a dab of neverseez.

    The air pressure regulator may or may not have a screen on the air inlet that is integrated with the regulator It looks like some did and some didn't,. The valves over near the air tanks are just check valves. One of the air tanks is not needed unless you use the trailer brakes.

    I assume you have seen reference to the student manual that is stored in the misc technical documents forum. That has some excellent drawings of the air system and how it works.
    So far all I have used for wrenches are 27 mm for the BSPP lock / seal nuts and 19 mm on the flange nuts. Also a adjustable wrench on the elbow fittings.

    20181215_111549.jpg

    The HF tube wrench set has a 19 mm / 22 mm combination, which only cost $14 for the 5 wrench set. a 3/4 wrench works well on 19 mm, especially with the stuff they call paint on the nut.

    20181215_125114.jpg
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    Last edited by rtrask; 12-23-2018 at 04:42.

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    Some times ago we clean the fuel tank. Now the SEE engine seems like he lost power. Therefore today we changed the fuel filters. Badly soiled.
    For this engine we purchased the felt filters but we take the perforated surface type out. It works well with the new filters.
    We need new internal gaskets for the hand bleeder pump and two off bleeder screws on the filter top for the future.
    Someone knows which typ of filter he run?

    IMG_5887.jpg IMG_7811.jpg IMG_7816.jpg IMG_7818.jpg IMG_7813.jpg

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