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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Avelyn77

New member
2
0
0
Location
Arkansas
I recently bought an Flu419 and am having lots of troubles. I know it may sound foolish , first what type of fluid do I use for the power steering?
 

alpine44

Member
397
15
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Motor oil for the FLU419 power steering. Drain the water out first.

Search for "lubrication order FLU419" and download the other pertinent manuals posted on expeditionimports.com or Rocky Mountain Moggers as well. Read them a couple of times cover to cover and life with your FLU419 will be a lot easier.
 
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peakbagger

Well-known member
723
333
63
Location
northern nh
I haven't done it with the SEE yet but at my old job we used "slow dynamite" on occasion. Far less dramatic but we had old buildings with papermachines in them and the staff was paranoid about regular blasting. Just drill the holes (lots of them) mix up the powder with water, pour it in and go home. No need to cover or worry about licenses, or foundations cracking as there is no explosion. In the AM the rocks would usually be split. It didn't work as well with old concrete with rebar but usually was good enough. Far less dramatic but a lot more accessible, no license needed. An adjacent town is mostly in granite and they have been replacing water and sewer lines as when they original went in they put them in shallow and let folks run a tap all winter. They had a blasting contractor one year but the hassle of having to pre inspect all the nearby homes and the inevitable claim's, they switched over to big ramhoe and slow dynamite for a good ten years.

I do miss working utility construction years ago, they did all their own blasting on occasion and setting off a couple of hundred of feet of trench with timed caps was impressive. They just used sticks no powder.

The Gold Rush TV show used some of this product last season. They acted like its a miracle. I was surprised they drilled so deep. Up in New England most farmers split their own granite with feathers and wedges and they usually only drill in about 6".
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,277
1,188
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I do miss working utility construction years ago, they did all their own blasting on occasion and setting off a couple of hundred of feet of trench with timed caps was impressive. They just used sticks no powder.
The closest I get to that kind of fun is placing Tannerite by prairie dog holes. And even that is a rare occurrence.
 

joeblack5

Active member
234
212
43
Location
State College PA
Hello All here, Hope this is in the right section. Bought a flu419 of gov deals last dec 2017. Got it licensed in PA. Just fixing the alternator. Thanks for this great site and all the TM info.

My other toy is Mercedes G240D from the Danish army.

Later J
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
723
333
63
Location
northern nh
Welcome, I know its painful and there is lot of extraneous posts but its worth skimming this thread from start to end. Probably worth having a notebook and writing the post number for posts of interest as there definitely are common bugs on SEEs. If you haven't done so go in the miscellaneous technical manuals forum and download the student guide and the technical bulletins. If you have access to plotter download the electrical diagram and plot it out or have it plotted at Staples. The ones for sale on Ebay are laminated so a lot longer lasting.
 

alpine44

Member
397
15
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
The closest I get to that kind of fun is placing Tannerite by prairie dog holes. And even that is a rare occurrence.
Tannerite's claim to fame is about making a lot of noise with little destructive effect. It's fun on the shooting range or on your own property for giggles but unless you use tons of it (or its cousin ANFO) not very useful as a land clearing and site preparation tool.

Dynamite OTOH, if properly loaded, stemmed, and covered with blast mats or dirt makes little if any noise but does a lot of work per hole drilled as demonstrated here: this video.
The crackle you hear are not the dynamite charges but the surface delays; blasting caps in a plastic clip that transfer the signal from row to row with a certain delay. If you cover them with a bit of dirt, the whole blast sounds like a muffled rumble. But look at the amount of rock that has been broken up and turned into an easy to excavate muck pile. Last words on the video after the chuckles: Who's your daddy?...
 
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alpine44

Member
397
15
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
I haven't done it with the SEE yet but at my old job we used "slow dynamite" on occasion. Far less dramatic but we had old buildings with papermachines in them and the staff was paranoid about regular blasting. Just drill the holes (lots of them) mix up the powder with water, pour it in and go home. No need to cover or worry about licenses, or foundations cracking as there is no explosion. In the AM the rocks would usually be split. It didn't work as well with old concrete with rebar but usually was good enough. Far less dramatic but a lot more accessible, no license needed. An adjacent town is mostly in granite and they have been replacing water and sewer lines as when they original went in they put them in shallow and let folks run a tap all winter. They had a blasting contractor one year but the hassle of having to pre inspect all the nearby homes and the inevitable claim's, they switched over to big ramhoe and slow dynamite for a good ten years.

I do miss working utility construction years ago, they did all their own blasting on occasion and setting off a couple of hundred of feet of trench with timed caps was impressive. They just used sticks no powder.

The Gold Rush TV show used some of this product last season. They acted like its a miracle. I was surprised they drilled so deep. Up in New England most farmers split their own granite with feathers and wedges and they usually only drill in about 6".
The expanding mortar mixes like Dexpan will work very well with the drill bit diameters and lengths of the FLU419 tools for rock breaking or removal of old foundations.

I would have gone that route for the granite removal if it was not certain that I would also have to deal with some massive tree stumps that were beyond the capabilities of the backhoe. Now I drill a 2 feet deep hole in the middle of a stump with a wood auger mounted on a high torque hydraulic motor, put between half and one stick of Dynomax in it, fill the top with sand/gravel and set it off. That will split the stump into several pieces and will also loosen the roots extending into the ground. The remnants are then easily extracted with the hoe and put on the burn pile.

The FLU419, like any piece of construction machinery has limits of what it can safely handle. But there are often ways to get bigger jobs done without breaking the machine.
 
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The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,277
1,188
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Tannerite's claim to fame is about making a lot of noise with little destructive effect. It's fun on the shooting range or on your own property for giggles but unless you use tons of it (or its cousin ANFO) not very useful as a land clearing and site preparation tool.
In my case it works just fine, the objective being to kill prairie dogs in a different way than simply shooting them.
The disadvantage is that it takes extra work, and waiting time, but the result is more spectacular than a simple bullet.
 

alpine44

Member
397
15
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Now I understand! I was wondering why you would want to make Prariedog holes bigger. For this bullet activated booby trap, Tannerite is ideal. Anything more potent would be harder to hit due to the smaller size.
 

88FLU419

Member
41
1
8
Location
Eastern Ct
Exactly the kind of response I was hoping for. Thank you. Three questions, first what does letting it sit for a while have to do with anything? Second, Wouldn’t a plugged vent just make the cylinder sluggish but still functional? Third were you able to get at this vent and paint without tilting the cab?
If was not sitting, there could still be pressure on the back side of the piston although not likely. The vent was completely plugged which makes the cylinder go in a little until air leaks by the piston and makes the cylinder extend. I was able to remove the cylinder from under the back of the cab without tilting.
 

Iowaunimog

New member
11
0
0
Location
Davenport/Iowa
F52483EA-0CC4-48B4-B648-43BDF508FAEE.jpgFlu419 arrived with fan unattached and no bolts. Anyone have info on pitch of threads for fan attach? Can’t find pitch thread anywhere in TM’s. I see bolt called out but can’t determine pitch. Thanks for help.
 

Migginsbros

Well-known member
2,009
5,775
113
Location
Berlin-Germany
For sure its metric.
Following the e-parts catalog it´s metric 10 with a regular pitch of 1.5mm.
Bolt lenghts could differ between 45mm up to 80mm.
We tryed to find out , took the hood off but could not reach them.
IMG_6555.jpgIMG_6553.jpgIMG_6554.jpgIMG_6557.jpg

Wellcome from overSEEs
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,277
1,188
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I'm impressed. After sitting for about a year and a half, I wanted to clear out a parking space in the garage and went to try to start the HME.
It fired right up! I mean within two seconds of hitting the starter button.

That was obviously good...not good was that I'd forgot about the still hooked up low air pressure shrieker.
One brake reservoir needed to be topped off, and the hydraulic tank shows low, DSCN1975[1].jpgbut that was about it.
 
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