FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Welcome, Falcondriver.

If your alky system is clean and works, you might as well use it, I think. I'm running one with (when I remember to fill it) and one without, but in a dry climate.

I'd think that like most older diesels, an OM 352 will run on almost anything. Well, except for whatever my Summer SEE had in the tank.

We run the alco system with not fully open petcock and add two additives to the fuel.Everytime Biozid against the Diesel Pest and in winter the other for better flow when cold.

rtrask said:

I'm guessing that with all his reluctant rewiring expertise that Peakbagger will have the definitive answer on this, but does anyone have a suggestion on a replacement for what the parts manual calls "connector body, plug"? It attaches to the bottom of the fuse block, it is kind of grand central for the wiring harness. I disconnected mine from the bottom of the fuse block so I could get behind the it and the plastic is so brittle it just crumbles when you touch it. I am going to have to do some maintenance on it, and would like to replace what is left.

Click to expand...

Sorry I missed this one. I guess I was lucky that mine was in good shape and came right apart. Somewhere in the early stages of desperation with the rewiring process, I did envision starting from scratch and one of the reasons I didn't was that connector body as there is lot going on in there. There was someone on ebay selling exchange wiring harnesses. but I expect they would want a solid core.

The FLU farm said:

I think tennmogger is onto something with the plugged filter. Not that I think that the filter is necessarily plugged, but the viscosity of the fluid was surprisingly thick. It flowed like very cold 90W.

My suspicion is that I caused it. Right after starting the SEE, I lifted the blade to adjust its angle while the engine warmed up a bit. Being at or close to zero degrees, the fluid wasn't warmed up at all when asked to do its job, so for all practical purposes there was "a plug" in the system somewhere.

It's still odd as not much later in the day the Winter SEE's hydraulics were working just fine. Same fluid, practically the same temperatures. Although, its front system did get a bit of warm-up before lifting the loader since it had to be jump started.

I'll put some AW-32 outside tonight and see how thick it gets.

Click to expand...

My guess is its viscosity related. I don't have the lube spec nearby but curious if they have a cold weather spec. If you read the winter operations recommendations they really stress exercising the hydraulics before actively using them.

Thanks for the tips on the alcohol and diesel additives. How is the alcohol added to the air system? Venturi or just dripped into the air supply line?

I've read a quite a few threads about leaky swivel connectors on the hose reel. One of mine is leaking. Is there a seal kit or replacement parts available?

I just dealt with this. I tried a seal kit from the oem (hanney reels) but after i got it and saw that it wasn’t gonna work i called and they said that even though the nsn points to a current part number, often with the military contracts they did one off type stuff. I ended up just buying two new swivels and chalking that up to $45 lesson. The swivels cost around $100. Just search for 1/2 male pipe to 3/8 jic male swivel. There are quite a few places that will supply them.

peakbagger said:

My guess is its viscosity related. I don't have the lube spec nearby but curious if they have a cold weather spec. If you read the winter operations recommendations they really stress exercising the hydraulics before actively using them.

Click to expand...

Well, the odd thing is that it wasn't overly cold. And the test bottle, left in about -2 degrees over night, didn't seem to be all that affected.
Yes, the AW-32 was noticeably thicker afterwards, but nothing like what came out of the tank.

Also, right or wrong, I have never treated the Winter SEE any different, except maybe waited a few seconds longer before lifting the loader enough to drive.
And I'm sure it's been colder than the Summer SEE was.
I guess it could be trying to live up to its name.

If we get enough snow to warrant using it again, I'll try to duplicate what I did and see what happens.

Falcondriver said:

Thanks for the tips on the alcohol and diesel additives. How is the alcohol added to the air system? Venturi or just dripped into the air supply line?

I've read a quite a few threads about leaky swivel connectors on the hose reel. One of mine is leaking. Is there a seal kit or replacement parts available?

Click to expand...

There is alcohol injection system located upstream of the air pressure regulator. Its on the passenger side just ahead of the rear wheel. The access to the reservoir is from the deck of the rear platform, you need to have the backhoe in the deployed position to get to it. Unfortunately the top of the reservoir sits above the platform and get stepped on breaking the reservoir bottle allowing dirt to get in the system if its turned on. There are two brands of alcohol injectors used and the way they are engaged is slightly different but whatever you do make sure that the reservoir isn't damaged or full or crap before you put it in line. I don't know of any source of new reservoirs. Atkinson Vos in England sells an alcohol injector that looks similar. I have been told that standard alcohol injectors used in many trucks will work but keep in mind matching up threads is PITA.

Peakbagger, you can get to the reservoir and fill it without raising the backhoe. At least I can.
Also, don't forget that it's just plastic tubing that connects the reservoir to the regulator, so thread matching should be relatively simple.

I've been meaning to put some sort of reservoir on the Summer SEE (after stealing it and putting it on the Winter SEE) and would just use some sort of feasible tank.
But as mentioned, so far it all seems to work fine without.

We know that one tire of the See has a small air leak to the rim.
Today the SEE was sitting on the rim. No chance to get this great amount of air at once in to get the tire back over the hump.
So we had to bring the wheel to the next tire shop.
Now we first clean and paint the rim and try tommorow if it works.

Migginsbros said:

We know that one tire of the See has a small air leak to the rim.
Today the SEE was sitting on the rim. No chance to get this great amount of air at once in to get the tire back over the hump.
So we had to bring the wheel to the next tire shop.
Now we first clean and paint the rim and try tommorow if it works.

View attachment 755229View attachment 755230View attachment 755231

Click to expand...

You did it right. But, you could've seated the bead with the wheel still on the SEE, using either an Astra bead seater, or starting fluid.
That corrosion is unfortunately right where a tires seals, so getting that area as smooth as possible is the key.

A bead seater is on our wishlist.

If shopping for a bead seater, avoid the temptation to get a cheap one, with a ball valve.

There has been several instances when people have been unable to seat tricky beads...until we used my Astra. A ball valve type just won't release the air fast enough to be useful in many cases.

Hi Migginsbros,

I am thinking about mounting a front plate according to DIN 76060A, DIN 76060B, EN 15432 F1 or EN 15432 F2 (in Germany generally known as "Kommunalplatte") between/below the SEE front mount for the Schmidt FL4 loader like shown here. These type of plates are standard on a lot of European Mogs and allow easy attachment of plows, winches, front 3-point hitches, etc. Most likely I will build a hybrid plate to match DIN EN 15432 F2 and DIN 76060B attachments like pictured here.

I found some dimensions here but did it not specify the plate thickness. Could you guys please take some photos and measurements when you run across these plates during your travels.

Thanks in advance.

alpine44 said:

Hi Migginsbros,
I am thinking about mounting a front plate according to DIN 76060A, DIN 76060B, EN 15432 F1 or EN 15432 F2 (in Germany generally known as "Kommunalplatte") between/below the SEE front mount for the Schmidt FL4 loader like shown here. These type of plates are standard on a lot of European Mogs and allow easy attachment of plows, winches, front 3-point hitches, etc. Most likely I will build a hybrid plate to match DIN EN 15432 F2 and DIN 76060B attachments like pictured here.

I found some dimensions here but did it not specify the plate thickness. Could you guys please take some photos and measurements when you run across these plates during your travels.

Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

Hold your horses, gentlemen! I just got some drawings for the mounting plate emailed from Wausau Equipment here in the USA. Fortunately, they only used one size in the States. That means that every Wausau plow with that mounting system will fit on the same vehicle plate.

For building custom implements, the "claws" that hook over the top of the vehicle-mounted plate (red circle in photo) are available as bolt-on forgings from Wausau for ~$40 each. Part# S6270127210



I will mock up this mounting system from plywood on my FLU419 and post some pictures soon.

The aircraft tug has a mounting plate for common tools. But the plate is extra wide and extra thick due to extra weight on the front axel. Normal plates are smaler but with the same purpose.
If it is necessary we send the dimensions.

Migginsbros said:

The aircraft tug has a mounting plate for common tools. But the plate is extra wide and extra thick due to extra weight on the front axel. Normal plates are smaler but with the same purpose.
If it is necessary we send the dimensions.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer but it looks that I got the dimensions needed to fabricate the plate.

(Translated into German: Danke für das Angebot. Es sieht so aus, als ob jetzt ich alle Dimensionen habe, um die Platte herzustellen.)

Are the rear work lights supposed to come on in reverse? My alarm sounds but not the lights in reverse.

Our work lights only flash with the work light switch pulled. Buzzer works in reverse. At the wiring plan it seems like the " backup light switch" is only for the buzzer and the "worklight switch" is only for the back up lights.

View attachment Wall chart for the Small Emplacement Excavator.pdf
(The wiring diagram)

Pinsandpitons said:

Are the rear work lights supposed to come on in reverse? My alarm sounds but not the lights in reverse.

Click to expand...

No, they are part of the added on Case equipment that is fed from the accessory fuse. This wiring is not shown on the wiring diagram but the electrical diagnosis section in the manuals has troubleshooting for these lights. The only reason they will come on is if you use the switch. Note I think these switches were part of an service advisory that they could fail by water getting in them