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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

ede356

New member
5
0
1
Location
Suwanee/Ga
Vaccination didn't help. I got the flu... FLU419

It has a leaking engine and a messed up electrical system... Anybody in the Atlanta area that can help?

20180909_151028.jpg

 

Pinsandpitons

Active member
155
41
28
Location
Central Washington
....... The only reason they will come on is if you use the switch. Note I think these switches were part of an service advisory that they could fail by water getting in them
The switch and the lights work fine on my FLU. I'll have to look and SEE how hard it would be to make the backup switch do both. Funny how the switch and the lights are called "back-up' in the diagram, but the "working light" switch is the only thing wired to them.

Wellcome ede356. I would wish you a speedy recovery but I won't lie to you, there's no cure. It's like herpes... so I'm told. Best thing to do is find a support group.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
723
333
63
Location
northern nh
Go the misc technical forums and find this thread https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...cavator-flu-419-manuals-and-a-student-handout now download the student handout (last one on the right). Ignore the poor reproduction of the primary wiring diagram that is cut in half and go to this thread https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?168054-Unimog-FLU-419-SEE-Wiring-Diagram. This is in one piece and a higher resolution. If you are going to be using it, I recommend saving it on a stick and going to Staples and having a few printed, out the bigger the better.

Go past the main wiring diagram and you will find the wiring diagram in the handout and you will find the Freightliner specific harness. Between the two of them you should be able to figure things out once you get over that Mercedes does not color code their wiring. You need to find the connector, carefully clean off the cable near the connector and you should see a number on the wire. Not sure on the Freightliner harness as all my wiring work has been on the Mercedes harness.
 
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The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
The switch and the lights work fine on my FLU. I'll have to look and SEE how hard it would be to make the backup switch do both.
That should be as simple as using the wire for the alarm to trigger a relay for the lights.

In the process, it'd be the perfect opportunity to "forget" to hook that miserable alarm up afterwards.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
723
333
63
Location
northern nh
I wear ear plugs whenever I am running mine so the backup alarm does not bother me. The low pressure alarm on the dash is far more annoying and is didconnected.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,277
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113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I wear ear plugs whenever I am running mine so the backup alarm does not bother me. The low pressure alarm on the dash is far more annoying and is didconnected.
I wear ear protection when running the snowblower. 2,200 rpm and the 'blower makes for a lot of noise.
The back up alarm isn't a problem for me as it's extremely rare that I put the dash switches "in the wrong position", making it work.

I wouldn't mind having the low air pressure alarm hooked up to low oil pressure, though. As long as it was on a switch and could be turned off at start up.
It's be nice to have when working the backhoe, I think. And easier than mounting an oil and temp gauge back there.
 

Sgt Jiggins

Potato Peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
431
204
43
Location
Lynchburg, VA
A few of you might already have seen this message in another form - please forgive me if so, just want to reach as many folks as possible:

Recently I was fortunate to obtain my own SEE (in overall good shape - knock on wood). I've spent a decent amount of time reading TMs and such to address normal maintenance and minimal troubleshooting. One thing I discovered is that there is a wealth of information already available out there. Which is great. What can be not-so-great is the quality of some of the scans.

So. To that end, I'm offering the SS community access to my large format scanner and printer. Both have a 42" carriage and are color.

What I'd like to do is poll the crowd to find out:

1)what would be the most helpful to the largest #
2)who might entrust me with their precious hard copies (which would be well-treated and returned(!))
3)if there are any graphics artists out there who might volunteer their time when comes to things like colorizing wiring diagrams.



Regards,
SJ
 
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Sgt Jiggins

Potato Peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
431
204
43
Location
Lynchburg, VA
Speaking of TMs... I could use a hand with deciphering what bulbs I need to order for my SEE's tail/bo/marker lights?

I'm migrating the truck over to LEDs and have figured out the headlights, construction lights and work lights. They're all 6500k LEDs now which I quite like - my SEE can now truly SEE in the dark!

Which leaves the other external lights. What size/type/socket are those bulbs in the tail/bo/marker lights?

Regards,
SJ
 
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Falcondriver

New member
3
0
1
Location
Stevens Point, WI
I hit a stump buried in the snow last week, and blew something in my power steering (I hope it's a hose). Everything up front is dripping with hydraulic steering fluid so I'm unable to determine the failed area. I'm planning on filling up the reservoir and looking for leaks. Is there a fragile component to the steering system I should check first, and what is the recommend fluid? Could I use AW32?

Thanks
 

Sgt Jiggins

Potato Peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
431
204
43
Location
Lynchburg, VA
Is there a common failure point on the horn?

I've pulled the horn/hi/low-beam switch apart and that appears to be good. Fuses under the hood are good. I haven't metered it at the horn yet because I don't want to scrape the CARC off (and invite cancer). And before I take the next step in the TM and go pulling things apart under the hood, I thought I'd ask...
 

SpoiledSpud

Member
42
5
8
Location
Northern (ID/WI)
Hey Sgt Jiggins,
If your fuse if good (appears to be the 8th fuse in box 1 from the driver's side), and you have power at the horn switch, then it would seem to be either a bad wire #641, a bad horn or horn ground #08. Maybe you could supply a little power jumper to test the horn.
Good luck

Is there a common failure point on the horn?

I've pulled the horn/hi/low-beam switch apart and that appears to be good. Fuses under the hood are good. I haven't metered it at the horn yet because I don't want to scrape the CARC off (and invite cancer). And before I take the next step in the TM and go pulling things apart under the hood, I thought I'd ask...
 

Sgt Jiggins

Potato Peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
431
204
43
Location
Lynchburg, VA
Anybody found a clever way to put a 2" receiver on a SEE?

I've seen a few adapters on places like epay (search for "Humvee Drop Hitch") that look clever. But I'm not sure they'd accommodate the larger pintle on the SEE.

I attached an example to give an idea.

SJ

hitch.jpg
 
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The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,277
1,188
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Haven't got around to it yet, but some day I'll cut a hole next to the pintle hook and inset a piece of receiver tube.
It'll obviously be a bit offset, but that's better than having it low and dragging in the dirt when the backhoe is deployed.
 

kira2235740

New member
13
2
3
Location
Price/Utah
Joshua N, living in southeastern Utah, purchased my 419 little over 6 months ago for working on the farm. It is a 1987 flu419 not sure what the frame number is but will work on getting it. Currently working on making a full size snow plow, 3 point receiver, forks for moving pallets and hay. I was a former Firefighter/EMT-Paramedic/engineer not a designer nor welder. So I will probably be asking a lot of questions and bouncing ideas off people. Also taking ideas for attachments. Thanks for all the information that you guys have already passed along. Be safe and God Bless you all. IMG_4555.jpgIMG_4551.jpgIMG_4856.jpgIMG_20180818_193616235_HDR.jpgIMG_20180818_193616235_HDR.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

rtrask

Active member
332
220
43
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
Welcome to the group Joshua,
The country side looks familiar, FLU farm is Southeast of you in North west New Mexico, I am in Colorado, and own a little 40 in the San Luis Valley in South Central CO. There are several of us in the extended area that FLU Farm likes to call the "Actual Midwest". It looks like you are getting good use out of your SEE. I am still in repair mode on mine. I think this spring I should be good to go. This forum has a lot of good information in it. If you have not already done so, download the technical manuals https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...cavator-flu-419-manuals-and-a-student-handout
 

kira2235740

New member
13
2
3
Location
Price/Utah
Welcome, Joshua. We're practically neighbors, probably less than 450 miles apart.
Well come on over for some fun in the dirt and some food, if you ever get bored of NM swing on up. Born an raised back east so hospitality is superb, plus the tea is fantastic! We have just shy of 500acres of a play ground, lot of work to be done and fun to be had. Keep you all informed of all the projects that will be going on. Thanks for the help!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,277
1,188
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Thanks for the invite, Joshua. I went past your place about six months ago, coming back from Provo, and used to go to Richfield somewhat frequently, but now there's nothing on the horizon for going your way.

I'll be in rtrask's neck of the woods in about a month to pick up a car, and most likely will stop by and pester General Hood in about two months as I'm picking up a trailer near his digs. If I make it to Moab, that's as close as I'll get for a while.

So, you may want to visit here instead. Much less land, not very hospitable, but more FLUs.
 
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