FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

The FLU farm · Feb 4, 2017

Finally, all four tires installed. It would've been quicker had it not been for the 10-minute duty cycle of the (formerly) parts SEE. Gotta fix that air leak somewhere between the strainer and fuel tank, or put an electric pump in there for now. Primering with the hand pump is getting really old.

Luckily, the front tires went on quicker than I thought, since unlike the SEE, the "formerly" easily lifted the front axle with the bucket.

Had planned on using Formerly's backhoe to reinstall the HMMH's spare now that it was freed up, but despite having used the HMMH for running the impact (really need to fix the tool switch so that Formerly can help itself) it wouldn't return the favor. Okay, I was tired of bleeding and pumping by then and used the Sky Hook instead.

BigBison · Feb 5, 2017

I've been too sick to work on my truck projects outdoors, and those hydronic heaters I sourced from Canada managed to get held up at customs during a chaotic week on the borders. It *has* given me the time to delve into the hydraulic systems in the manuals and such. Pre-heating the reservoirs from the hydronic unit, hmmm... first, I was thinking put some sort of heat exchanger inside the reservoirs w/ some bulkhead couplers, but now I'm thinking they should go under the reservoirs, with bypass valves to cut 'em in & out of the coolant circuit. The reservoirs will sit about 1" higher as a result.

Which got me to thinking about those reservoirs and everything else, to run the increased hydraulic power I'm after for the snowblower, brush hog, and UHP fire-suppression system, all of which I'd like to adapt to the SEE (which can't run any of 'em, stock). What I'm thinking, is replace the PTO-drive hydraulic pump with that Eaton unit I linked to before. Now I'm trying to identify what parts of the SEE's rear-hydraulic system aren't up to the increased PSI. So far, definitely the bulkhead couplers on the reservoir will need replacing. Not a big deal.

I'm back to thinking the snowblower will raise/lower and tilt, off the front hydraulics -- I'll be able to raise/lower while driving, to maneuver around obstacles, for one thing. But the hoses going to the quick-attach adapter, will be powered by the PTO to operate the fans & chute. The pressure will be reduced for the backhoe.

I was out straddling a small ditch to move some snow piles earlier, it's been warm so they were heavy slushy loads for the SEE. While it was fun driving my marshmallow around with heavy loads elevated up front, slipping sliding and spinning in & out of the ditch at too-radical of angles for any other backhoe to not just get stuck even with decent tires & chains... I was still picturing just driving along straight, and blowing all that crud over the fence into the deeper ditch next to the county road.

First-under in low range @ 2K RPM is crawling. Maybe in the future I'll decide to lower the gear or bump up the motor's HP. What I can't wait to see, is that snowblower's hydrostatic clutch taking all the power I'm not using to move the Mog, and put it into obliterating a heavy/chunky windrow. Being able to do that, no matter how slowly, would be faster, more efficient, with less wear & tear on the SEE than the work I asked of it this morning. I had fun doing that, waving at the neighbors and all, don't get me wrong! But I'd have been happier getting that done pushing the kind of monster 6' snowblower capable of doing that job, with a truck capable of actually getting it there! I can't picture a skid-steer pushing the same snowblower along that ditch.

In KISS terms, it makes more sense to upgrade the rear hydraulics, than it does to add another PTO to the truck. If anyone knows what other problems I'll run into aside from the bulkhead couplers, I'm all ears! I doubt I'll get it done in time to need the snowblower this season, but I'll have plenty of work for that brush hog this summer.

The FLU farm · Feb 5, 2017

BigBison said:
Now I'm trying to identify what parts of the SEE's rear-hydraulic system aren't up to the increased PSI. So far, definitely the bulkhead couplers on the reservoir will need replacing. Not a big deal.
First-under in low range @ 2K RPM is crawling.

Not that I understand hydraulics, but I always thought that reservoirs are just that. Containers holding fluid. And none of mine have ever acted pressurized, or the sight glasses would've been history. I suppose that one would also have to plug the vents in order to pressurize them.

Gearing I'm better at, which is why I know that 2,000 rpm in a SEE, regardless of what gear it's in, is far from crawling. If it were, there would be no need for cascade boxes or hydro static drive.

Fuel lines leaks I'm getting better at. Using my new ClampTite tool resulted in a 200% improvement in duty cycle.

Well, that means it'll now run for 30 minutes before the strainer goes dry instead of the 10 minutes it ran yesterday, so something's still unhappy.

peakbagger · Feb 5, 2017

My equivalent is I took a piece of neoprene hose, split it down the side slipped it over the hose barb and then secured it with a screw type hose clamp.

The fuel line is PEX, an early version of what is now used for heating systems extensively in houses. It is heated up then slid over the hose barb. Apparently at some point over the life of the tubing it gets brittle and loosens up. Annoyingly, it seems to hold pressure longer than vacuum. At one point I found a Mercedes diesel forum that discussed this problem extensively. They recommended the method I described but also advocated replacing the lines with neoprene. I see discussions on biodiesel forums that PEX can be used for biodiesel so there may be supply somewhere if someone wants to replace the plastic lines with new plastic.

The FLU farm · Feb 5, 2017

peakbagger said:
My equivalent is I took a piece of neoprene hose, split it down the side slipped it over the hose barb and then secured it with a screw type hose clamp.

Where do you think I got that idea from, peakbagger? You can see the clamp and hose still on the fuel line, to the left.
Either the ClampTite works better (even after my very first and crappy application of wire) or I butchered the initial attempt with the hose clamp and hose.

peakbagger · Feb 5, 2017

I saw your clamp, a worm gear clamp might tighten things up a bit better. The type of clamp you used might crush one side of the hose and open up the hose a bit where the clamp doesn't fully wrap around the hose.

The FLU farm · Feb 5, 2017

Yeah, technically the type I used should be better, but the hose did exactly what you said and opened up a bit.
Oh well, I might have to drop the tank next and practice some more with the ClampTite. Of course, I still haven't ruled out the O-ring I used for a gasket on the strainer.

General Hood · Feb 5, 2017

The FLU farm said:
Yeah, technically the type I used should be better, but the hose did exactly what you said and opened up a bit.
Oh well, I might have to drop the tank next and practice some more with the ClampTite. Of course, I still haven't ruled out the O-ring I used for a gasket on the strainer.

You'll get her fixed. I think what keeps mine from losing prime is the thick layer of CARC paint courtesy of Uncle Sam, plus the coat of paint I added last summer

The FLU farm · Feb 5, 2017

General Hood said:
You'll get her fixed. I think what keeps mine from losing prime is the thick layer of CARC paint courtesy of Uncle Sam, plus the coat of paint I added last summer

Ah, there's my problem. This one never did get painted after they serviced a bunch of things. Of course, in your case it may not be the CARC paint, or your added coat, but wax residue that seals things nicely. I might have to try that approach.

Thankfully I really don't need this one to run/function well until spring. Heck, I haven't even changed the hydraulic fluids to AW-32 in it yet (no sense in wasting the time and money if it won't run right).
But for some reason I'm bent on making this one a worker. Maybe because it's the underdog that turned out to be (nearly) an alpha dog.
If nothing else, the engine sounds very sweet. When it gets fuel.

peakbagger · Feb 6, 2017

I am having a tough time getting a link to you tube to work. I did find the video on leaking plastic fuel lines by a firm called MercedesSource on You tube. The video suggest cutting the plastic fuel line off but leaving the short length of plastic tubing that covers the hose barb. The new fuel hose is slipped over this short piece of plastic and then secured with work gear type hose clamp. That's what I am effectively doing when I split a short length of hose and slip it over the plastic tubing.

The FLU farm · Feb 6, 2017

peakbagger said:
I found this video on leaky fuel line repairs. Note he doesn't cut off the plastic line from the hosebarb

I've been wondering how to cut the plastic off the barbs without leaving cuts and scratches, but leaving the plastic in place solves that issue.
Except, if the plastic is loose on the fitting, there could still be an air leak. I think I'll go rubber directly onto metal.

BigBison · Feb 6, 2017

This video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJLw4nwqfcY

Just paste the link on its own line, let the forum software do the rest.

BigBison · Feb 6, 2017

The FLU farm said:
Not that I understand hydraulics, but I always thought that reservoirs are just that. Containers holding fluid. And none of mine have ever acted pressurized, or the sight glasses would've been history. I suppose that one would also have to plug the vents in order to pressurize them.

The rear reservoir has a pressure gauge on it, which the manual says should read zero before opening the tank, to avoid injury from pressurized hydraulic fluid... those bulkhead fittings are welded on, and will likely be good to go. If that reservoir isn't meant to be pressurized, why would those fittings be so beefy?

Embarrassingly, I haven't looked at the gauge while operating the backhoe or crane...

peakbagger · Feb 6, 2017

Unfortunately all I see is a black box

Another Ahab · Feb 6, 2017

BigBison said:
This video?
Just paste the link on its own line, let the forum software do the rest.

Great vid!

He talks about avoiding the "hose clamps found at most auto parts stores".

I'm guessing the quality found at a place like West Marine are all good; do you think?

BigBison · Feb 6, 2017

I think he was talking about those plastic hose clamps with the serrated closure -- they're narrow and can bite into the hose, particularly when subjected to the vibrations in an engine bay.

BigBison · Feb 6, 2017

The FLU farm said:
If, in the future, the small batteries turn out to be a source of trouble, I'll fix it when/if that day comes. I can't afford daydreaming about sophisticated batteries and high tech charging systems (nor could I afford buying them) so what the factory provided will have to work for me. And it seems to work for many others as well. Besides, I prefer simplicity.
Is the SEE's charging system ideal for the Group 31 Optimas I installed? Probably not. Does it work? Yes, so far.
Will the SEE's charging system croak due to running two smaller batteries? Maybe you're right, and it will. But many FLU owners do it and if it was detrimental I'd think we would've heard from the others by now.

Here's some counterpoint on what I posted before about charging batteries:

http://www.powerstream.com/SLA-fast-charge.htm

It can be difficult to figure out what's best, when even the experts can't agree.

88FLU419 · Feb 6, 2017

The pressure gauge is for filter restriction, not tank pressure.

BigBison said:
The rear reservoir has a pressure gauge on it, which the manual says should read zero before opening the tank, to avoid injury from pressurized hydraulic fluid... those bulkhead fittings are welded on, and will likely be good to go. If that reservoir isn't meant to be pressurized, why would those fittings be so beefy?

Embarrassingly, I haven't looked at the gauge while operating the backhoe or crane...

The FLU farm · Feb 6, 2017

88FLU419 said:
The pressure gauge is for filter restriction, not tank pressure.

That's what I thought it was for. Aside from that the tank's shape doesn't lend itself to pressurization, it would require a bladder or something similar to be able to run an enclosed system. And if so, it couldn't be vented like the SEE's tanks are - and all other hydraulic systems I've seen.

Anyway, I've seen about 12 psi on the gauge. That was a cold morning and with 10W in the tank.

The FLU farm · Feb 7, 2017

BigBison;1974493First-under in low range @ 2K RPM is crawling. [/QUOTE said:
"Crawling" is obviously a relative term. Please keep in mind that these three Unimogs were idling, not running 2,000 rpm.
I'd be happy with Working Group gears, as they would be most helpful for certain tasks, but sure wouldn't mind having the Crawlers, either.
Click here: Standard Gearbox VS Working Group VS Crawler Group - YouTube

I put a "Creep Kit" in my tractor, and really appreciate it. Not that it's used very often, but it's a great feature when doing precision work. Top speed in First is under 1 mph. That's crawling in my book.
Just for kicks, Bison, next time I have a FLU out and running I'll take a GPS reading of its speed at 2,000 rpm. I already know it's not crawling at 600 rpm, so it probably won't be at 2,000, either.

FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member