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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Bikers33

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HMMM.. Sounds like an okay guy to me. I'm sure if you really needed that particular information then we could send him a PM. I guess that maybe he is just busy running his business. If no one asks, then I guess he should not be forced to put his money anywhere...
Just my 2 cents worth.2cents
 

Bikers33

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1-- Yes
2-- I have an extra one.
3-- I do not.

4-- I need the switch that is under the clutch pedal. Does anyone have an extra one or know where I can get one?
I have one in good condition if you want it, pm me.. I deleted it and put in a limit switch instead so the shift is quicker between low and high range
 

BigBison

Member
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Location
Yampa, CO
Are you sure? Just out of curiosity, why do you want that switch to be operational?
Straight-up safety feature. My older vehicles can lurch forwards if you try starting them in gear without the clutch depressed. The only reason I have for disabling the clutch interlock switch on any vehicle, is so I can remote-start it to warm it up in winter, a popular upgrade around here. Not that any shop will perform that work anymore, due to insurance companies frowning upon shops which disabled the clutch interlock to make remote-start work, in the past (shops hereabouts used to advertise remote-start upgrades on the radio all day every day). They have their actuarial tables showing a body count, from manual-tranny vehicles lurching forward on startup and injuring someone, or at least their own vehicle and someone else's in a parking lot.

I long ago disabled the clutch interlock on my Prelude so it would work with remote-start. Not a hard thing to do, but in this day and age, totally up to the owner. If I lived in a warmer climate, I wouldn't care about remote start, so I'd prefer the clutch interlock -- I always set the parking brake with the vehicle in N, but picking a vehicle up from a shop, sometimes the brake isn't set and they've left it in gear. In which case, a little idiot-proofing can only be a good thing. One of those issues that's so up-in-the-air that I don't even have an opinion, other than vehicle owners ought to be able to decide what's best for themselves.
 
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jstark45xd

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The most impressive thing so far, is how badass those tires look on your SEE!Needless to say, you were on level ground? I didn't get close to that kind of lift on the side of an unpaved, crowned county road because the truck didn't lift up on level. It's a FAQ if these FLUs can lift themselves up to change a tire. I'm starting to think the answer is "yes, maybe, depending" on whether it's level. Level, I can lift the stock wheel off the ground even if it isn't flat. Crowned road, the truck "fights itself" so to speak.
I just put on 4 new tires and did the lifting only with the outriggers and the front bucket. It was fast and easy. I've used the outriggers before on uneven terrain and was able to change a flat several times. This time with the front bucket was simple enough after I asked that question on a FB page for FLU's. Point the teeth straight down and lower the bucket all the way. After it is has gone as far as it will go, easy forward in 1Low. it will creep up in the air. You can get a solid 12in easy under the tire at max. Way more than you need.
 
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BigBison

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Yampa, CO
I just put on 4 new tires and did the lifting only with the outriggers and the front bucket. It was fast and easy. I've used the outriggers before on uneven terrain and was able to change a flat several times. This time with the front bucket was simple enough after I asked that question on a FB page for FLU's. Point the teeth straight down and lower the bucket all the way. After it is has gone as far as it will go, easy forward in 1Low. it will creep up in the air. You can get a solid 12in easy under the tire at max. Way more than you need.
My bucket won't go to the end of its travel, without recoiling. I don't know enough about it, but I thought I wasn't in "float." That last 1/2" I needed to get the full spare on, was simply more than my SEE would give without deploying the backhoe, which I couldn't where I was. If it's so easy to use the front bucket to lift the SEE to change a tire, then I'm starting to think my front bucket's not working entirely right, as I can only accomplish this on level terrain.
 

BigBison

Member
317
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Location
Yampa, CO
After it is has gone as far as it will go, easy forward in 1Low. it will creep up in the air.
Exactly what I was doing, just every time I got "almost" high enough, the bucket settled back down several inches. I don't think that's working right? I also don't know how to fix it.
 
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Foxyjosh

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Northeast /OH
It's a safety feature and I really don't like bypassing safety switches. Although, I do remember our 1988 Ford Bronco not starting and to get it on the trailer to get it home, my dad cranked the engine with the truck in gear. (the factory safety switch was installed in newer trucks so using the engine to move the truck would be impossible.)

However, the need for the switch is in case some nitwit tries to use the SEE and doesn't know what the heck they are doing.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
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The actual midwest, NM.
Interesting thing about the SEE, is the backhoe is off-center on the truck. I didn't notice this, or the fact that the passenger-side stabilizer's actually longer...

A good practice exercise for any FLU owner, is changing a tire. I've seen this question asked about the HMMH and the SEE, but despite owning each, I don't know if I can get either one to lift its own tires off the ground to change 'em out unless on level ground with plenty of operating clearance all around.
Interesting thing about the SEE, you say. Interesting indeed. The outriggers on my two SEEs (all four, in other words) are identical. Unless someone swapped one in from a different model on yours, they should be the same, too.
Yes, the backhoes are offset by about five inches, which can be a bit of a hindrance when straddling a wide ditch. But only if trying to make that ditch look like something from Better Homes and Gardens...something I have yet to learn not to do.

I'm trying to picture why "level" is so important for lifting a SEE, for tire changes or whatever. It seems to work for jstark45xd and myself on less than ideal surfaces. Maybe for others, too?

Also, can an HMMH lift itself, you ask? Well, not that the SEE's implements are designed to lift it per se (with the exception of the outriggers) but they can do it.
In contrast, the forklift and crane on the HMMH are designed strictly for lifting (no, not the vehicle itself) and while some down force can be had from the crane, it may very well start breaking apart before exerting enough force to lift the rear of the HMMH.
With no possibility whatsoever of down force on the forklift, even if it would go down far enough, it's physically impossible to lift the front end with it.
Not that I would want to try it, but maybe putting the forks under something immobile could get the rear end up off the ground. It's probably more likely that the crane could be used to lift the front end, but I'm not about to try.
When I can't use the loader or backhoe (such as when the SEE isn't running), a cheap HF bottle jack and some cribbing does the job. A basic one man show.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
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The actual midwest, NM.
It's a safety feature and I really don't like bypassing safety switches. Although, I do remember our 1988 Ford Bronco not starting and to get it on the trailer to get it home, my dad cranked the engine with the truck in gear. (the factory safety switch was installed in newer trucks so using the engine to move the truck would be impossible.)

However, the need for the switch is in case some nitwit tries to use the SEE and doesn't know what the heck they are doing.
I think that the clutch's safety switch would be the least of my worries if someone unfamiliar with a SEE was to operate one. The people at OSHA must have nightmares about these things.
 

jstark45xd

New member
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Gabbs, Nv
Exactly what I was doing, just every time I got "almost" high enough, the bucket settled back down several inches. I don't think that's working right? I also don't know how to fix it.
I'm going to go over and make a small video. Once I got it in the air, I set parking brake and she stayed right there.
 

jstark45xd

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Gabbs, Nv
Patracy: Deleted content
You guys definitely have some issues that I'm sure none of us want to be part of. That being said, I was one of the people waiting as I am going to be moving close to a 100 tons of dirt this season. Was hoping to get this done and test it a bit before I get into it. Thank you for anything you can provide on this.
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
I'm going to go over and make a small video. Once I got it in the air, I set parking brake and she stayed right there.
In all fairness, if the loader isn't working correctly (like on my original SEE), lifting the front with it may not be possible.
One of these days I'll follow through on the tips peakbagger gave me on the loader hydraulics. The restrictor valves are in different circuits between my two loaders, for example.
Duplicating the one that functions well will be the first step.
 

jstark45xd

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Gabbs, Nv
The only thing I didn't mention first is as I was going forward, I continued to push down on the loader lever. Still trying to upload video but keeps saying network error.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
 
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jstark45xd

New member
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Gabbs, Nv
In all fairness, if the loader isn't working correctly (like on my original SEE), lifting the front with it may not be possible.
One of these days I'll follow through on the tips peakbagger gave me on the loader hydraulics. The restrictor valves are in different circuits between my two loaders, for example.
Duplicating the one that functions well will be the first step.
I agree and am merely providing information.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
 
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