Restoration Thread for M32 w/sidecar WW2 AAF Flight Line untility vehicle

I get it:

- Variant for governments on a limited military budget.

- It's a push scooter.

Another Ahab said:

View attachment 476773


I get it:

- Variant for governments on a limited military budget.

- It's a push scooter.

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I did not think anyone would notice the "Push Version Variant". Nice job Ahab. This would be the Model "32 1/2" Push series recommended for use on flat or downhill grades.

You are required to make a "vroom vroom" sound to alert others around you while operating this vehicle.

Torisco said:

I did not think anyone would notice the "Push Version Variant". Nice job Ahab. This would be the Model "32 1/2" Push series recommended for use on flat or downhill grades.

You are required to make a "vroom vroom" sound to alert others around you while operating this vehicle.

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Yes, that would be for the Model "32 1/2" Push series in Gasoline mode, of course.

But for the Model "32 1/2" Push series in Turbo-Diesel mode, you are required to whistle, and VERY loudly.

(I looked it up in the TM).

You guys both missed it, it's the Russian built copy of the Razor scooter!

MWMULES said:

You guys both missed it, it's the Russian built copy of the Razor scooter!View attachment 476783

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I am sorry to have to correct you, MWMULES...but the Russian built copy of the Razor scooter was taken from the Model "32 3/4" version
that was used by the W.A.C.s from 1942 thru 1945 that had all pink markings.

Torisco said:

I am sorry to have to correct you, MWMULES...but the Russian built copy of the Razor scooter was taken from the Model "32 3/4" version
that was used by the W.A.C.s from 1942 thru 1945 that had all pink markings.

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We need to check with USSR about this. He'll know.

Mounting the engine and some accessories

I mounted the engine to the frame and also installed the throttle cable (not connected) from the handle bars to the carb. mounting bracket.

Began the final inspection of the rebuilt engine (so I am told), Checked the plug gap fuel tank bolt torques etc. and found that the auto clutch had way to much horizontal free play. If I did nothing, the free play would wreck havoc on the life of the chain let alone trying to adjust the chain in the first place! Plus the belt from the generator pulley to the clutch pulley was shabby and appeared to be used.

So... I ordered the throttle nut for the handle bar, throttle cable clamps for the carb. and on the frame and a generator belt.

I then dismantled the clutch and found it was missing two thrust bushings on the shaft.

I have to install one bushing between the engine and the sprocket drum and another in the sprocket recess. I have one of the bushings but need to go to the store tomorrow for the other (If I can find it).

Started the bike up for the first time

Reassembled automatic clutch so I could cut the drive chain to length and adjust and install the chain.

Then the kill swith as installed onto the magneto cover. Next came the muffler…which did not fit. It needed to have the manifold end cut off and a piece welded in to extend the pipe to the exhaust manifold connection.

I am hit or miss at making really smooth weld beads. I get the pieces welded together but fifty percent of the time I have to clean the weld beads up with a grinder. In the end…it works properly.

After finishing the muffler, kill switch/magneto cover, and drive chain, I tried to start the little rig up for the first time. Put oil in the engine, put gas into the tank. 1[SUP]st[/SUP] problem was a stuck open float needle valve. 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] problem was a totally loose intake pipe (manifold). 3rd problem was making sure I had a fuel filter in line from the tank to the carburetor. After these fixes came many fuel flow adjustments and several kicks of the starter. Then success! It’s funny how the start up of that little bike could bring such joy to me.

Pics continued

More pictures

I really do enjoy a thread like this, thank you for taking so many photos and detailing the work. I'll probably never restore one of these, but I sure am vicariously enjoying yours!

Cheers

M813rc said:

I really do enjoy a thread like this, thank you for taking so many photos and detailing the work. I'll probably never restore one of these, but I sure am vicariously enjoying yours!

Cheers

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Thanks for your support. This little restore is a lot of fun although the model 30 series like this one is getting almost impossible to get parts for. Thanks again.

Finally getting near to body install

Time to see if body fits over engine and all the accessories. Alas, the body does not fit.
To correct the fitting problem I had to first redo the automatic clutch assembly so that the two thrust bushings were placed on the other side of the clutch sprocket drum to draw the engine further to the right hand side of the frame.

The second item was to shorten the muffler connection that I had just welded and make it a bit shorter so the muffler could clear the body shell. Of course, this meant redoing the rear wheel alignment, the sprocket tension adjustment, and readjusting the brake linkage after moving the motor further to one side. (Even the little vehicles can get demanding at times.)

When the body finally fit it was time to make sure everything under the body shell was installed and good to go. First is the tail light assembly that is shipped in peces and has to be assembled from the socket out. Second is running the tail light and generator electrical wires so they do not get burned by the engine. Then the throttle linkage assembly, the air cleaner, and any other small accessories that are under the body shell.

I got as far as painting the entire body (undercoating in wheel well area), covering a unused hole in the floorboard and adding a second coat of bedliner. Next task is to dress in the wiring and linkage that runs through the front frame fork well and make a mini dash board plate to hide the light switch in the same area. More accessories to add generator belt to install, etc.

pictures continued

More pictures

Pic's continued

Last of this batch of pictures.

Getting to the end of the scooter portion of this build

Had to re-route the wiring and make a homemade dash plate to cover the light switch in the forward body well. Also ran wire mold inside the forward body well to hide the wiring from the switch and headlight.

To install the seat I had to make my own hinges by converting a special slim hinge to my hole configuration and using 1/8 inch steel shims cut and drilled to fit under the hinges on the body side..

Final carburetor adjustments and other odds and ends finished so I could finally mount the body and give the little bike a spin. Cannot go over 15 MPH while breaking in the engine but still got a heck of a kick out of going around the block!

Added a Klaxon horn circa 1941 that sounds like a rooster with its leg caught in barb wire. Then added a rifle scabbard for the replica M1Carbine that I recently ordered.

Working on side car elements now. And waiting for vehicle markings coming from Rick Larsen.

More pictures

Additional pictures

Considering where you started it all:



Wow!

Very NICE !!!! bet it felt great on that FIRST RIDE !!! That will be be great at the MV shows , beats walking by a mile , plus it looks cool !

Still have a lot to do with the sidecar build from scratch. I was a bit worried when I first saw the mess I had purchased. I am sure glad It turned out O.K. to this point.

Another Ahab said:

Wow!

Considering where you started:


View attachment 478759

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I had the carburetor settings all wrong on the first ride and the scooter would not go past 5 MPH. I thought there may be something really wrong and got worried. I got out the TM 1099 and found out how badly I had set up the carburetor. After MAJOR changes to the carburetor settings and re-setting the Spark Plug Gap away I went!

Thanks for the post....

rtk said:

Very NICE !!!! bet it felt great on that FIRST RIDE !!! That will be be great at the MV shows , beats walking by a mile , plus it looks cool !

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