Hood hinge rebuild

More than one way to skin a cat. I'm sure most people just replace worn hinges, but figured I would start a thread to include pictures and part used/ parts sources for this particular project. Pics are a must. Let the chaos begin.

For the record I have not done this yet, but need to. Thought I would select my preferred option from this thread and make one for other new members to reference as well.

I replaced my hood hinges with new ones from Memphis just before SSGR13. The pin in the passenger side hinge fell out during the rally. Fortunately my son noticed that the pin had come out and it was just lying on the hood, so I was able to grab it and put in the glove box. I put the pin back in, but the fit between the splines on the pin and the hole through the hinge is not tight enough so it won't stay in. I've been thinking about getting the hinge over to a fab shop to see if they can press it in, weld it, or may be press it in and deform the skinny end so it can't come out again.

How were you thinking of rebuilding the hinges? on my old ones, the through holes were elongated and the pins fit very loosely. That allowed a lot of movement at the hinge resulting in all manner of squeaks, rattles, and rubbing that removed the paint and ended up making rust. I'm not sure how those old hinges could have been fixed short of filling the holes, re-drilling them and then fitting new pins.

I was thinking about just drilling it all out oversize and using a larger pin. But what to use for the new pin? The original looks to be a large rivet, and I don't want to replace it with just a nut and bolt. That's why I wanted to see what other guys had done and what they used. I. Could use a lynch pin if I find one close enough size and just put a cotter pin in as a retainer, that would make the hood easy to remove when needed.

If I remember right they are supposed to be a little loose and they mount one way correctly, backwards will bend the hood.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?12684-Door-Hinge-pins

Go to the last page and read the article junglemist posted from the now defunct ODiron.

I like the lynch pin idea. I may try that one myself. Tractor Supply usually has a pretty good selection of those and there should be one close enough to the right size to work.

I have to do something. My hood is moving so much at the hinges when I'm driving that I'm afraid the pins are going to break and end up making a sail. I think I'm going to try the lynch pin idea when I have time.

I take and drill them out to use a grade eight 5/16 bolt the bolt needs to be long enough it has no threads where it goes through the hinge. I take the bolt and cut it off 3/8 of an inch beyond the hinge recut the threads stopping just before the edge of the hinge then spin the nut on and it will stop just short of the hinge body just snug it up and there is no pressure against the hinge and the nut has enough pressure on it to not back off.

Thank you to all of you hood hinge handymen. More idea's for my own problem with m35a2 hood hinges.

This is a pin that I fab-up to replace a problematic factory part in my competition shotguns. It's just a hardened dowel pin, cut to length, and then the ends are grooved to accept E-clips. I use a lathe, but no need for fancy tools, the grooves can be cut with a thin cut-off wheel in a dremel, as the pin is spun in a drill press, or even a captive electric hand-drill (does take a steady hand though). Seems like it would work great for this application too. Just have to make sure you cut the grooves to a depth that allows the e-clips to snap in place yet hold tight.

ranchhopper said:

I take and drill them out to use a grade eight 5/16 bolt the bolt needs to be long enough it has no threads where it goes through the hinge. I take the bolt and cut it off 3/8 of an inch beyond the hinge recut the threads stopping just before the edge of the hinge then spin the nut on and it will stop just short of the hinge body just snug it up and there is no pressure against the hinge and the nut has enough pressure on it to not back off.

Click to expand...

I did the same but used SS GR 8 bolts.

How about oversizing the hinge holes on both pieces of the hinge, press in some stainless bushings, and used a custom made stainless steel pin and snap ring to hold everything in place. I think stainless steel is harder than the original steel on the hinge and it would never rust and jam up. My two cents...

I'm thinking a stainless clevis pin, with a stainless e-clip, may be the easiest, and cleanest-looking way to go. The picture is from Grainger, but I'm sure they're available from Fastenal, and lots of other places too.

jbayer said:

I did the same but used SS GR 8 bolts.

Click to expand...

Actually, I line reamed the two hinge halves to .3135", then on the middle piece, I reamed that to .3438"(for a snug fit), and installed a 1/32" SS sleeve (A286 material), wall thickness .016", with epoxy primer. Then I reamed that to .3135" also.
So with the bolt snug, only wear is on the SS sleeve, which I can just replace if it ever wears out.