Securing a HMMWV

securing HMMWV

I installed battery cutoff (from Those Military Guys) on my 998. There is a hole in the back of the battery box where the keyed switch fits perfectly. Only had to drill one 1/4" hole for stud that prevents the switch from turning. The switch is accessed in the right rear passenger footwell and if you paint it to match it is not obvious. Only suggestion to vender would be to supply shorter cables for HMMWV installation.

Kascar or Hummer parts guy

Can someone post a pic of where they think the best place to locate the battery disconnect switch is?

We have some customers installing them right on the center hump right by the driver's seat we will be offering 2 kits one for mounting on the side of the box as mentioned above and also one for the center hump
Thank you
TMG

Here is where I put mine.purchased from those Military Guys.

Pablo66 said:

Here is where I put mine.View attachment 561869purchased from those Military Guys.

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Very nice, thanks. What length of cables did you need to get that far? And which path did you take to route them?

Pablo66 said:

Here is where I put mine.View attachment 561869purchased from those Military Guys.

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Looks like a handy location. I was not creative enough to go that far.

I can't remember exactly, I think it was 7' and I had a little extra I used to make a new battery cable I needed. I'll snap a couple of pics underneath the truck tomorrow to show how I routed it. In their previous post Those Military Guys said they would have a kit for installing in both places, so they have probably measured it out. When I ordered mine I estimated the length I would need, and I had them leave the ends off. After cutting them to length I went to an Interstate battery store and had them crimp the ends on the cables.

Pablo66 said:

I can't remember exactly, I think it was 7' and I had a little extra I used to make a new battery cable I needed. I'll snap a couple of pics underneath the truck tomorrow to show how I routed it. In their previous post Those Military Guys said they would have a kit for installing in both places, so they have probably measured it out. When I ordered mine I estimated the length I would need, and I had them leave the ends off. After cutting them to length I went to an Interstate battery store and had them crimp the ends on the cables.

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That would be great, thanks. Getting the cables over there would be my only concern. You just interrupted the negative cable between the truck and the battery, right?

I would buy the kit from TMG, but already have a switch... Just need cables and advice.

mlacek said:

That would be great, thanks. Getting the cables over there would be my only concern. You just interrupted the negative cable between the truck and the battery, right?

I would buy the kit from TMG, but already have a switch... Just need cables and advice.

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Ok, here are a few pics of what I did. I wrapped the cables in that twisty cable protection stuff (that's a technical term... I looked it up!) and just routed them over the transmission, and to where I put the switch. After drilling the hole for the switch, I noticed that I went through a seam, and it was uneven on the under side. To make the switch sit level, I JB welded a half of a washer to one side of the switch. This evened it out. Not sure why the pics are out of order, but I think you get the idea.
The 2 holes in my battery box were existing, I don't know if they are standard, or if you will need to drill your own. I used a piece of paracord to measure how long the cables would need to be to run from the battery box to the switch. I made sure they were a couple of inches longer than I needed, just to give me some "wiggle room."

best set of luck!!
Paul

Pablo66 said:

Ok, here are a few pics of what I did. I wrapped the cables in that twisty cable protection stuff (that's a technical term... I looked it up!) and just routed them over the transmission, and to where I put the switch. After drilling the hole for the switch, I noticed that I went through a seam, and it was uneven on the under side. To make the switch sit level, I JB welded a half of a washer to one side of the switch. This evened it out. Not sure why the pics are out of order, but I think you get the idea.
The 2 holes in my battery box were existing, I don't know if they are standard, or if you will need to drill your own. I used a piece of paracord to measure how long the cables would need to be to run from the battery box to the switch. I made sure they were a couple of inches longer than I needed, just to give me some "wiggle room."

best set of luck!!
Paul

View attachment 562885View attachment 562887View attachment 562886View attachment 562888

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Very nice - thanks! And looks like you've got a pretty clean truck!

mlacek said:

Very nice - thanks! And looks like you've got a pretty clean truck!

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Thank you!
It's been a long process, and it's the first time I've ever painted a truck. Good thing matte paint is forgiving! I need to post up some pics of the whole thing. Still has a long way to go, but it's back on the road, and I'm having fun with it.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I've searched multiple threads.

The other week I found a photo with a link here for an ignition lock where the key fits in the center of the original flipper switch. I can't find it now. Anyone know more?

I've seen in eBay the system where the switch itself is the key....the switch comes out when you take the key.
Any reviews on that type?

I want to keep the cab looking military stock.

Ignition switch

I removed the PCB (protective control box) and cut a hole in the side where I installed a SPST barrel type security key switch.
It was pretty easy to trace down the signal path going into the harness connector that comes from the ignition paddle switch and I used the SPST switch to interrupt this connection.

So I have to reach underneath the dash and insert the key, not a huge deal, but everything looks perfectly stock otherwise.

I actually got the idea because I noticed that the connectors on the back side of the ignition switch had a lot of wear on one of them. Turns out they would reach up behind and yank that wire out as a way to disable the vehicle enough to where someone couldn't just jump in and drive it off.

There are always ways to secure a vehicle, and ways others will try to liberate said vehicle.

1) I agree with battery cut out.

2) PCB box is essential, so cut out switches to essential wires can hobble the HUMMWV. BE CAREFULL! Some wires are live and cutting them with a switch while connected to battery will kill the PCB box!!!!!!

3) Fuel cutout switch to lock fuel supply.

4) Good old fashioned steering wheel to brake lock/chain.

5) I have a "snake" type lock that I use to secure wheel chocks.

6) Park the car behind another blocking vehicle to prevent towing.

7) Fleabay now sells rear hatch locks. I Just bought one. Federal-military-parts is the vendor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOCKING-SL...h=item238a6f90b0:g:7n4AAOSwhvFZFksI:rk:2:pf:0



8 )Install a shift lock. Just make one and use a removable lock to secure the shift lever.

9) Chain your car to a post with anchor chain.

10) Install a GPS tracker and an alarm. I have several hidden in the vehicle and on items at risk of theft.

11) I don't care what the Liberals say, get a carry permit and make sure people know your are skilled at use of long and short arms.

This is an old thread BUT a good one to resurrect once in a while.

Or buy our remote proximity key fob kill switch...this kills the start switch when you walk away from the truck, renders it completely dead.
walk back to truck and it comes alive...

Retiredwarhorses said:

Or buy our remote proximity key fob kill switch...this kills the start switch when you walk away from the truck, renders it completely dead.
walk back to truck and it comes alive...

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Is that you on "The Auction Site"?

If so I will buy one.

I had no idea who made them or if anyone stood behind them.

Seems like we can convert back to push start with your box.

TOBASH said:

Is that you on "The Auction Site"?

If so I will buy one.

I had no idea who made them or if anyone stood behind them.

Seems like we can convert back to push start with your box.

Click to expand...

the unit wires into the exsisting OEM start switch and mounts under the dashboard.
its plug and play and takes approx 20mins to install.

Still happy with the cut-off I installed a few years ago. Only one hole drilled. Have the same switch in my M151A2.

Mine is serendipitously secured due to a fitment issue. My transmission has the wrong shifting stud, so I can't connect my shift lever right now. In order to shift my HMMWV, you have to open the doghouse cover, reach down, and rotate the short lever directly on the transmission. Quite an odd thing to have disabled, so I haven't worried about parking my HMMWV in public areas yet.

So far my only trespassers have been kids, whom only just messed with my fuel cap. Fortunately, I'd don't even have to get up to go stop them, because their parents quickly stopped them and instead got them to line up for a picture by it. Somewhere out there, there's a photo of an Asian family beside my HMMWV, with my hideous yellow filler panel doors and everything.

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