MEP-802a & 803a

the 80X units actually have a simpler injection system, hydraulic valve lifters, and you can stand right beside one and talk in a normal voice!! they are incredibly quiet. given a choice I would have an 802/3

I won an 802, and I can't wait to pick it up.
I run an 002a for my house emergency backup power, and 5kw has been great, even with electric water heater and well pump.

The drawback to the 002 for me has been the noise. My neighbors are not nearby, and I more or less live in the woods, but at night, when the whole world is silent, you can hear that thing all way down to the main road (I checked during the last outage). In the winter, that's no big deal because everyone has their windows shut. In the summer, when people like me step outside at 11p to watch the stars at the firepit, it's pretty darn annoying.
I just exercised it Saturday, and yeah, it's still pretty noisy. I debate whether it's as loud as my 017a, but it doesn't really matter, it's still crazy loud. I like to keep a low profile... If I could, I'd never let you know I had a generator at all.

I'm hoping the 802 will be much better on noise control. I wish I could take the day off and go get it today...

I'm in the same boat as you Ratch, I managed to win one this time around. The difference is I am very suburban on a quarter acre lot. I think my neighbors will be glad to see my 002 leave. I also won't feel so bad about exercising mine during non emergency events. Hopefully we get ones that don't need too much TLC.

Hey, just occurred to me, have you figured out a way to unload yours? I have forks for my backhoe, but I was working up some ideas for fork-slot channels with chains and spreader bars so I can lift it with a chain. I prefer that over forks, much easier to set things down gently on my very unlevel property. Although they swing like crazy...

For anyone wondering about lifting these units, now that I have one and previewed some, turns out there's a lifting eye at what looks like COG on the engine. Take the top panel off, and it looks like you can hoist to your hearts content. I noticed this when I previewed a unit today and saw a bolt-on eye inside the housing. I looked at mine, and sure enough, there's a lift eye up there.

I quick glanced at a data plate that looked like you can lift it by straps to the skid, also. I'd be worried about the housing distorting or crushing, though.

I have a 002A set mounted on a M116 trailer. I use it for emergency power on our farm. If you want to reduce the noise use a muffler or run the exhaust through a water tub or barrel.The cost was my concern in between the old 002 and a newer 802. With 100+ acres noise is not my concern. I have run both while in the military and would recomend 10KW or 15 KW for whole house back up power.

Ratch said:

For anyone wondering about lifting these units, now that I have one and previewed some, turns out there's a lifting eye at what looks like COG on the engine. Take the top panel off, and it looks like you can hoist to your hearts content. I noticed this when I previewed a unit today and saw a bolt-on eye inside the housing. I looked at mine, and sure enough, there's a lift eye up there.

I quick glanced at a data plate that looked like you can lift it by straps to the skid, also. I'd be worried about the housing distorting or crushing, though.

Click to expand...

Just use your fork lift. I got a 5000 lb clark 12 years ago for $250 and it works great. The eye inside is just for the engine / generator when servicing.

I picked up my 802a this morning and I have to say I feel extremely lucky and fortunate.

Rows of Humvees waiting for Captain Crunch. Brings tears to my eyes.



They were very careful loading it into my truck.




This is next lot of gens coming up for auction. The 2nd and 3rd lot looked much better than the 1st lot. Not sure why but when you're standing there looking out over the field of them they just didn't look as rough. I would say half or more had exhaust flaps.



My Harbor Freight engine hoist comes in handy again. I know those slings look tiny but they were the only ones I had long enough and were each rated for 2400 lbs in a basket lift.


This one puzzled me. The faceplate is scratched up and the gauge is partially ground away. The only thing that I could guess is that something happened with the thumb screw and they hit it with the angle grinder.


Since my order from fleetfilter won't be in until next Tuesday I swung by NAPA, they had the primary fuel and the oil filter. My unit had the secondary filter and the metal bowl still attached so I figured that worked out ok.
I got home put batteries in and filled both fuel filters with marvel mystery oil. I then left it on prime and run for awhile to circulate it through the fuel system. Then I focused on filling the rest of the fluids.

There was a tiny bit of oil in the engine that looked normal and water free. So I just replaced and put on the new filter. How on earth are you supposed to fill the radiator? I tried every funnel I had, went out and bought another funnel, then used a piece of tubing and I still couldn't get it to take much without it dumping back out at me. I finally disconnected the upper radiator hose on the other side and filled it through there.

Now came time to try starting it. Turned it to start, nothing happened, no click, no nothing. Tried over and over again, also tried the maintenance switch. Then I was just playing with the switch turning it to start over and over again quickly out of frustration and one time it just sprang to life. Scared me half to death, it starts nearly instantly unlike my MEP-002 that I have to crank for awhile. After that it was start about 75% of the time so that switch is either going bad or dirty.

Wasn't running long before I had a puddle of diesel on the floor. The secondary filter that NAPA didn't have in stock was spraying a thick stream out of it. The convince outlet works but I wasn't getting voltage at the L terminals. I had to work quickly as I was swapping buckets underneath that secondary fuel filter. I guess it could be something with the AC connector switch or with a relay or something. But am I correct in assuming that since I have 120v at the convenience outlet that getting output to the terminals should be relatively minor compared to whole genset not producing?

All in all I couldn't be happier.

Good for you bookpile. These did not come with instructions, but there is all you want to know and much more in the TM's. Once the unit starts, you must flip the toggle on the front panel marked (AC circuit interrupter to CLOSE) this will relay power to the terminal board. The Operating procedure then calls for you to push the toggle to OPEN when shutting unit down.

Congrats! Good to hear you got a good unit.
Mine was filled with water. I drained about 1.5 gallons from the crankcase, and currently have atf soaking through each cylinder. Pretty disappointing.

I spent about 2 hours going through the next lot. I took more detailed photos and notes on every unit except the last two. I don't know if I can discuss preview findings (I don't see why not, since it's not fixing the auction), but I will say; if you get one, check the engine/exhaust for water regardless of the flapper. It would seem by my findings that a muffler flapper is no guarantee against water intrusion.
Wouldn't it be great if GL put a down-muffler shot in their pics?

Also, if considering one of these units from auction, check all photos very very well. I mean very very very carefully. There are sometimes units that you find look ok at first glance through the listing pics, or even look great from the exterior, but then find unphoto'd issues, like fire damage, partially disassembled Gen head, cut wiring harnesses, and missing critical parts. Some may also have a few goodies thrown in, like full TM's and maintenance history, extra aux fuel hoses, ground wires, ground rod connectors, etc, but not many.

Thanks 10Lugger I was flipping the switch but it was leaking fuel so badly I was doing too much at once and just decided to shut her down. Hopefully I can get a filter with new gaskets today and start her up again.

That's too bad Ratch hopefully you can get it fired up soon. I noticed some of them had big springs under the exhaust flap. Do you know what the purpose of those is? It seems like it would just let more water in. Did yours have one of those? I would have spent more time going through the next lot but realized I probably couldn't take another day off from work to come down and pick it up. I really wish govliq had Saturday hours.

One point on lifting it the way I did, the one seam on the top panel was missing all the screws on mine. When I lifted it up it flexed pretty hard there. I think if the screws would have been in place I wouldn't have had a problem.

I just discovered there is a separate TM just for the engine that goes in depth on it. A lot of you probably already knew this but it may help someone:
TM 9-2815-252-24

I've seen numerous post where people order Lister Petter parts online. Can anyone say where? Everything I find is all UK dealers.

I ordered parts from Kraft Power in Pompton Plains, NJ. Their website has a in depth parts list on our engine, Lister Petter modle# LPW2. If you are looking for a secondary fuel filter assembly # it is 284359. I received my order in three days.

Thanks 10 Lugger that's good info.

I picked up a secondary fuel filter at Napa this morning. It did not come with a new gasket for the bottom around the bolt which is where my biggest leak was. I put a normal o ring on and hoped for the best. Put everything together and it fired right up, no leaks. I was prepared to troubleshoot the AC relay but that worked too! I'll have to load test it at some point but I let it run for an hour with some small loads off the convenience outlet and everything worked great.

Just going to pick up some batteries tomorrow so I can put these back on the MEP-002 and I should be all set.

Figured I'd post a couple pics of mine as it sits today...
I have to admit, I was a little naive about the housing. I expected tough steel or thicker aluminum. But now having one and seeing how flimsy the housing is, I'm not sure that's much of a "feature" to me anymore. Nice to have and looks good when in decent shape, but it won't take much to damage it. I've already bent some by leaning on it while working, and the number of deformed doors that didn't work on units I previewed was disappointing (easy fix, but also easy break).
I still prefer the 802a for water cooling, more modern engine, and quieter performance, though.

When do you think you're going to try and crank her over?

I too expected the enclosure to be thicker and have some insulation on the inside. I understand the ASK kits have sound insulation but I've never seen one in person. I will say that the noise level is definitely louder when you open up on of the side doors so it is doing some good.

In my opinion the 802a and the 002 aren't even in the same league.

I might crank it tonight if I remember to pick up a funnel for the oil fill on the way home from work.

I had an ASK on my 002, damaged by DRMO before I got it, so I removed and gave it away. I think to another member. As much as I wanted to repair and keep it, I have enough to do. It's probably faster to dig a hole in the ground and put the 002 in it when it runs to dampen the sound...

I was astonished at how silent the 802 was when I first heard it fire up with the enclosure intact and the doors closed. It's...almost...CIVILIZED!

ac

The wife picked up our 802 donor today. Surprise, surprise, It had all the little stuff I wanted to make a real nice runner. It had the flap and even had green reinforced tape (duct tape) over the exhaust. This was a reset unit that showed scavenging. The engine has a new starter, alt, water pump, head, and injectors, it also has some sort of updated fuel system components. I will tear this thing down and keep what I want.

having a few spare parts will never hurt. Looking to get a few 802a to build one good one.