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Cutting/Siping 11.00R20.00 NDT's

oddshot

Active member
777
114
43
Location
Jasper, Georgia
I've grooved my 900x20s and it makes a big difference on wet or snowy roads. It is a lot of work about 1 hr. per tire. For me though the work ended up to be worth it in my opinion. I used an Ideal tire groover with a #3 headand blade.

Denny
I always wanted to give this a try.

How many miles have you put on the tires after they were grooved?

Since the groovin' got done, have you seen any sign of chunking?
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ducer

Member
297
1
18
Location
Ober, indiana
The tires are no louder, hardly any chunking and I have put about 7 or 800 miles on it since I did it. I drive mostly gravel and paved roads. No ballance issues either!
Since I am unfortunately computer illeterate I don't own a camera, computer or cell phone so no pictures, sorry. I'll do my best to describe what I did hopefully that will help you all out. It took me a little over 1 hour per tire to do this and I have a bad hand. What ever you do you must be sure to do the SAME THINGS TO BOTH SIDES OF THE TIRE to avoid thowing off the balance.

CAUTION: NEVER CUT ANY DEEPER THAN THE DEPTH OF THE LUGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1. Steal a white crayon or other light color from your kids, grandkids, girl friends kids or neighbor hood kids. Don't tell them you did it though to keep them out of your hair while their looking for it though.:shock:
2. I used an Ideal tire groover with #3 head and less than 2 extra packs of blades.
3. Mark tire from end of center lug tward sidewall 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches which ever looks best to you. Then on the mark you just made make a mark across the lug. Do this to all lugs make sure they are then straight and then make all those cuts.
4. From the cut you just made cut the lug dead center to the center of the tire.
5. Finally if you go to post 16 of this thread and look at how the center of the tire is marked (just the center marks) you will see how I did mine which will be your final cuts.

The reason I used the #3 is it cleans out the snow great, #2 is too narrow to clean out and #4 is too darned hard to push through the tire. There is a learning curve to this make sure the groover is very hot but not too hot. You'll get the feel pretty quick.
I hope this answers your questions and helps you out.

DISCLAIMER: Do this at your own risk! I can't control the variables in tires, tools or personal knowlege. Be careful!

Denny

 
Last edited:

ducer

Member
297
1
18
Location
Ober, indiana
Another reason you do not want to cut your grooves too wide the more rubber you cut out the less rubber you have for the road and then for sure your tires will chunk.

Denny
 

Br0nc0xrapt0r

Member
70
2
6
Location
Kent City MI
I'm just not seeing any 395's I can afford. The ones on GL go for a good price but still just not something I can afford. So I am really leaning towards the 11R20 NDT and grooving as I stated.

Cons, not as much top speed as the 395, not as good traction, tubes.

Pros, Cheap, better than a 9R20, I can run duals, tire chains, keeps my Deuce looking like a Duece.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
1,020
1,237
113
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
I'm in the process of doing all my tires. These are the 11R20 michellins. Never driven the truck on snow or ice yet, but I know the big flat lugs aren't going to be my friend.
Im 9B above Moyie Springs. I got the same tires and just got a pair of chains for the front (350$) and a pair for the outside rear (150$). there is so much thick ice on the gravel roads, every 90 degree turn was 120+.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
1,020
1,237
113
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
I dont remember, but I bought them from a guy in Sandpoint who had a bunch. the front are spiked and I got them from tire chains direct with free shipping. I'll try to check today and verify. BTW, all my driving is off the highway. I just use it for firewooding, and the apocalypse snow Im hoping for.
 
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