m105 overload springs as add-a-leafs?

I searched up and down and didn't find anything....

I was wondering what you guys think about using the m105 overload springs as add-a-leafs in the front spring pack. Other then the leaf clamps probably not fitting I don't see a reason why you couldn't do this.

I am working on a lift kit now for my truck which will be around 5" but I was looking at my springs and this idea dawned on me....

On what truck?

Add-a-leafs will lift a truck. But it will make an already harsh ride, unbearable when unloaded. Even more so up front, and all the time.

I believe that Black Rock Fabrication http://www.blackrockfab.com located in Phoenixville PA has lift kits, four links and other suspension parts.

I get your thought about keeping it as low as possible. In the rear, you can mount the bed as high as you need to keep the tires out of the bed. In the front I am not sure what you would need with 49". I think if you need to add height in the front, new longer spring hangers is a good option. The overload springs if used in the front could serve as a spacer of sorts and get you a few inches.

just a thought as you clearly have solid fab skills, Bethel Truck Salvage on Rt 78 scraps medium and heavy duty trucks. I have stopped in there a looked at their air ride suspension setups. I have seen single axle air ride setups in there.

I'd like to see if I could get a 36" sleeper from them.

I'm working on a 5" kit now I'll have some pictures tonight

What are you going to do with the steering linkage?

Well I was looking for I taller steering knuckle that guys make but blackrock told me they were on backorder.

I'll probably cut the ends off mine and make a new drag link.

Roger that. Have you looked into building a new one out of chrome-moly DOM tubing and heims? There are some really beefy heims out there now and some are even rebuildable.

Yeah that's a possibility too. I'd like to get the taller steering knuckle that way the drag link could probably stay almost straight then use hiems.

Yeah that would be the way to go if you can get that knuckle. As far as the add a leaf goes though, i wouldn't do it. Have to agree with Patracy. I do like the longer shackle idea though, and you could build some longer drop spring hangers as well.

Other than looks why are you wanting to lift the front? If I'm not mistaken your going to run 14.00-20s? Those fit just fine with no lift. Just curious.

I'll have to do some searching and see see what else I can find for a knuckle.

The shackle idea sounds like a PIA. I already have all the drop brackets cut. Just need to be welded and holes drilled I'll post pictures tonight.

They tires won't rub extremely flexed out?

Maybe if you really got the truck in a bind. But with the correct wheels and the truck bobbed the springs don't articulate nearly as much as 6x6. This includes the front since the frame won't flex as much either. Don't get me wrong there may be some slight rubbing. I don't think it will be a huge issue though.

A buddy of mine has 14.00-20s on his bobber and he off roads his truck hard. His tires rub but mostly due to him using stock wheels. The drag link is where most of his rubbing occurs. Wrong offset of the wheels.

Lifts are awesome and would eliminate most rubbing problems but it isn't a must with the tires you chose. I just think having the correct wheels would be a better use of your money since a lift will not solve the drag link rubbing issue.

The lift is free using fall off from work.

I'm working on the wheels.... I really would like to use the fmtv wheels cause 6 o rings are like $15 where 5 tubes are $175.....

I'm not worried about the back flexing I'm worried about the front.... That weight from the engine... I've seen pictures of 395's rubbing pretty good granted I'm only gaining another 1.5" to a 14.00

Do you have any pictures of him wheelin to see how much it actually rubs? Best I could find was these pictures. That looks like some hard core wheelin for a deuce..... doesn't look to bad for rubbing...

If anything your going to rub the exhaust J pipe on full steer with the wheel up in the fender.

depending on the rims you run

Those look like 14.00 s on the picture you posted. As Blackrock said, with a better wheel offset the j pipe is your main concern. If you feel that will be a problem you can reroute the exhaust like the a3's are. They basically eliminated the j pipe and 90° turned through the same hole in the fender that the a2's use for the stack. That gains you a bunch of room.

That sounds good then re doing a exhaust pipe is much easier then making a lift kit