Artisan's M916

Ok, I have not read this thread and I'm just popping in here but have you considered getting one of the 35 amp voltage converters from stonepicker?

Jeep these trucks have a dual voltage ALT setup. There is an 85AMP 12V ALT and
strapped to the back there is a transformer Rectifier that takes the 12Volts and bumps
it up to 24Volts but only 15AMPS output.

Do you have a link to Stonepickers widget? I will read it you bet!

M916 Transfer Case Summer/Winter Pump Spacer

I found it is PS magazine, now instead of trying to explain it to
guys I can tell them to just go t " Artisan's M916 " thread and
see and read all about it!



Here is a pic of mine less the "Pump Disengegment Spacer" (PDS) It is not
installed in the pump disengaging position nor is it installed in the stowed position.
I think my bolts may be too short, I need to address this, till then I carry it in
the truck.



..and here it is;



While I speak of TC's here is the screen everyone forgets about at the bottom.
You have to unscrew the plug to drain the bottom oil chamber and then disconnect
the hose at the bottom and unscrew that fitting to service the sump screen.
(Yes there are 2 places you need to fill w/ oil on that TC)

The A/C issue...

Another idea I have to resolve the not enough 24V amps to do it by the book
issue is to swap out the 24V motor components in the A/C to 12V. This
may not be too hard nor too expensive, comparatively.

The Condensor Fans; There is a 12V unit you can swap in.
The Compressor Clutch; There is a 12V unit you can swap in.
The Evap's Blower Motor; There is a 12V unit you can swap in.

Everything should be a no brainer except the blower motor. I am told
that if you have a simple 2 wire motor your good to do the swap. I am
told that if there is a resistor involved w/ the motor wiring you will need
to do something w/ it and the jury is still out as to weather or not a guy can
actually do these deeds, and only have to do these deeds, w/o causing more pains.
I am on it as we speak.

PS, my compressor 90's arrived so I can make the #12 and #8 hoses follow a route
I approve. The #10 compressor 90 has bad threads... The last major deeds I need to
do to get my A/C installed less charging and one of the parts arrives NFG. It took 5 days
to get it, I am up to 8 now I think.

Look at the threads on the blue plug, now look at the male threads.
It went on about a 140 degrees turn and came to a hard stop. There were
no issues at all w/ the #8 90. (REMEMBER: The #12 charge 90 supplied is actually
a #12 EZ Clip Hose connection X #10 Male O-Ring, Charge 90 . So it is
actually a reducing 90 . Who knew!

Nevermind, I didn't know your truck was mainly 12v. Stonepicker's converters take 24v down to 12v at 35 amps. This is backwards from what you need.

The 1 thing also to think about is at 12v those fans and such will draw near 2 times the current than they we at 24v. not saying you couldn't find low draw fans in 12v just something to ponder.

Jim what 200AMP Alt did you use, was it a Niehoff? What was the OE model number?
I am looking at frame fitment. If it is a Niehoff it is probably an 1100 or 1200 series ?????

Ok I got some time today between rain showers and took some pictures of my setup. I have a leese Alternator that just fits in the hole. You see the part numbers on it in the pictures.

I have been busy.

I have good intel. I heard this first hand today from "the" source.

Here's the deal. In IRAQ the M915 series of trucks were burning, w/ the problems emanating
from the OE ALT TR system. A new system was designed and built, an upgraded ALT REGULATOR
System for the truck.

The Upgrade Kit consists of an ALT and a REG and there is a bracket
to mount the REG to the frame w/ the horn and your supposed to run a wire from
the Ether switch (Believe it) to the REG and delete the old ALT TR components as well
and some other steps of which I will cover later.

The Upgrade Kit is made of unobtainium.

The ALT mounting is called J-180 FWIW

There may be another ALT that can be modified w/o much fuss to work, I am still working on things.
It does not help that I have to learn as I go.

We need to find a good ALT Shop how can make us this stuff I guess. W/ the cost so high
I am back to square one.

ok Here is more info, The Alternator is a Leece 4863pjbrm It fits like a glove with about 1/4 inch to spare. I was told it came off of some sort of a ambulance. I bought it 2nd hand like new and took it to a local electric shop. The went thru it and tweeked it, It no longer uses the transformer. It does use a 100amp Battery Equalizer Made by Sure Power P/N 52210 and 2 circuit brakers ( 120 amp auto rests ) There part # is 46937 From WWW.waytekwire.com I will upload a schematic when I have time. The Alternator is made by other companies as well . And available in 200 , 240, 270, and 300 amps.

Other info : Belt size on m915-m920
Fan Belts NAPA 25 28463 2 each
Water pump belts NAPA 25 060435
Alternator Belts NAPA XL 25 9476 2 each
AC Belt NAPA XL 9395 ( 39.5 inches long )

Would a hwwmv Alternator fix all the problems?

Its to long from what I remember . The other is the m915 - m920 are dual voltage. 95% of the truck is 12V . If it would fit you would need a large battery equalizer for all of the 12v .

Here is a VERY CLOSE dimensional drawing of what will work.
Anything bigger and your notching the frame, and that ain't gonna happen...

CLICK HERE

I Looked it up Hwwmv alt. part number N1225-1 200 amp alt. Duel Voltage
it shows 24V/200 amps and 12V/50amps. How much 12v output is there stock? and how much do we need?

It looks like CBR Metalworks was able to fit one on his M920.

edit: Noticed a few pages back stock 12V output is 85amps. Does anyone know if 50amps would be enough? Maybe swap a few items over to 24V to drop the 12V load (headlights/Tailights) LEDS? with Very Little Amp draw 12 or 24V.

I could be wrong but I thought he had plans to mount it. I don't believe he actually did the install yet. I'm sure with some modifictions you could mount 1 on. My setup was a straight bolt in. I honestly don't think 50 amps would cut it. But he is rewiring his truck anyways so I'm sure he will make it work. I paid $100.00 for my 200 amp alternator . I'm sure before it's all said and done there will be several ways to repower the electrics of these trucks.

Tornado I was told by a Niehoff guru the 1200 series will not fit
in these trucks. Been there done this exercise. Of corse a determined
sole might be able to do "something". Last night I crawled under
there and considered pulling the bracket that bolts to the frame
and reverse engineering it so it would raise the ALT in hopes of
more clearance, but it is still insanely tight. I will look at this again,
it would be a LOT of work for perhaps naught.I


I wish I had a 1200 series, I would pull mine and see how it goes.

I had another idea, what if a 2nd ALT was added?

Yank the OE TR and install a lil 50Amp 24V ALT someplace.
My first thought was to pull the A/C compressor and mount one there, then I woke up

Turn the OE Alt's pulley into a 3-slot and build a bracket off the frame / up?

R Racing said:

I could be wrong but I thought he had plans to mount it. I don't believe he actually did the install yet. I'm sure with some modifictions you could mount 1 on. My setup was a straight bolt in. I honestly don't think 50 amps would cut it. But he is rewiring his truck anyways so I'm sure he will make it work. I paid $100.00 for my 200 amp alternator . I'm sure before it's all said and done there will be several ways to repower the electrics of these trucks.

Click to expand...

I agree of course about there being several was to skin this cat. It will come down to $ and how available parts are both for the conversion and to maintain or repair later (Like on the side of the road somewhere). I think you way you have it if I understand it correctly is: 200amps straight 24V Alternator combined with a 100 amp 24-12V Converter/Battery equalizer would be the best way to go IF the cost works out. That system should be the easiest to get and repair if ever needed. Also as you said it Bolts On. (Time to start shopping around)

Correct me if I am wrong on your setup..

I had written the folks who rebuilt the starter in my truck and in reply
they gave me contact info for a shop in GA that does Military ALT START
work;

Southeastern Alternator and Starter
979 City Circle Rd
Baxley, Ga 31513
Tel 1-912-367-4370
Fax 1-912-367-7949
Phil Lewis (Proprietor)
or
Danny
Southalt_starter@bellsouth.net

Phil was very knowledgeable and his final suggestion keeping dollars and sense
in mind was to convert the A/C system to 12V and bump up the output of
the ALT.

He told me something the Prestolite rep did not and that is there is a 2800J alt @160Amps too.
Prior in this thread I said the OE is 2500J and there is a 2600J 105A and a 2700J 130A, FWIW.

So Phil says if we sent him a no issues, working ALT he will change the stators
bumping the 12V output to 160Amps for about $80.00 plus ride. Our TR's will just bolt up to them.

He also said if you send a good core he will swap you in a 160Amp unit
for $175.00 + ride or $200.00 + ride no core. 6 Months warranty. All USA
parts. Our TR's will just bolt up to them.

I have a request for prices for 12V A/C fans (3) and compressor clutch in 2 days ago
w/ a company that is close to RD.

FWIW

Tornadogt said:

snip

How much 12v output is there stock?

snip

edit: Noticed a few pages back stock 12V output is 85amps. Does anyone know if 50amps would be enough? Maybe swap a few items over to 24V to drop the 12V load (headlights/Tailights) LEDS? with Very Little Amp draw 12 or 24V.

Click to expand...

Tornado the way I see this, the OE TR's like to BURN when you place too much draw on them
so adding anything to the OE TR would not be wise, IMO.

We need a good 30Amps MORE of 24V power for these A/C units. (See my past post w/ exact
Amperage draws for fans, blower and clutch)

Stock we have 85-90Amps depending on who's book you read. The TR subtracts
from that so if the TR sucks a full 15Amps you subtract that from the ALT's 12V
output, so if it is 85Amps 12V Output you have 70 left till the batteries catch up.

Rememeber I am learning here so always confirm my madness.

Tornadogt said:

I agree of course about there being several was to skin this cat. It will come down to $ and how available parts are both for the conversion and to maintain or repair later (Like on the side of the road somewhere). I think you way you have it if I understand it correctly is: 200amps straight 24V Alternator combined with a 100 amp 24-12V Converter/Battery equalizer would be the best way to go IF the cost works out. That system should be the easiest to get and repair if ever needed. Also as you said it Bolts On. (Time to start shopping around)

Correct me if I am wrong on your setup..

Click to expand...

This is correct ! It was the most feesable way of doing it at the time for me. For the most part wiring was very easy , and the parts are off the shelf units so nothing special. so if I broke down parts are a phone call away. the other advantage is 100 amps of both 12v and 24v which allows me upgrades in the future . also with the stock alternator pulling a trailer at night and if I dare turned the heater on the gauge would drop to 11 volts or less . now it shows a steady 14v .