To change, or not to change? That is the question (fluids/filters)

Hi all,
I just picked up a nice 5T with a 2009 RRAD. Odometer read 199 miles at pickup, and filters/last service was 2012. I'm on the fence on replacing fluids/filters. Should I? I've seen some discussion on replacing the 10w oil for synthetic...just wondering what is the compelling reason for replacing fluids/filters if there are only a few miles on? Yes, it has been sitting for a while.
Thanks!

Dieseljoe3 said:

Hi all,
I just picked up a nice 5T with a 2009 RRAD. Odometer read 199 miles at pickup, and filters/last service was 2012. I'm on the fence on replacing fluids/filters. Should I? I've seen some discussion on replacing the 10w oil for synthetic...just wondering what is the compelling reason for replacing fluids/filters if there are only a few miles on? Yes, it has been sitting for a while.
Thanks!

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When they sit condensation occurs in the motor with temperature changes , thus getting water in the oil . That is why it is recommend to change your oil once a year regardless of mileage.

Fuel gets condensation over time. That allows a layer of water in the fuel. That allows algae to grow.

Change your filters.

Another thing that occurs over time is corrosion. Service your air dryer, it will need it.

Would you buy a 2 year old leftover car from a dealer and expect it to still be "new"?

Thanks doghead, good thoughts! Now I've got to find a good deal on the filter set. I looked at Napa, but their prices are making me want to look elsewhere. Any recommendations on a better place to buy filter sets and air dryer kit?

They are cheaper on Amazon.

Yes deffintly change all fluid and filters as soon as you get your truck. You never know how long it has sat and how much water has gotten in everything.

you can get filters from amazon but it's a gamble you never know how old the filters are. You don't really want to skimp in this area of the truck. Using behr paint is a way to save money. Buying cheap filters and air dryer parts will only cost you more money down the road. Atleast at napa you know your getting quality products that will last.

You might want to try oil analysis kits on the engine oil and tranny oil . Our local Cat dealer has post paid sample kits for $15.00. I say test not guess that is what fleet maintenance does. A oil analysis gives you a baseline on the unit for problems..... diesel fuel in oil, antifreeze where it should not be, high bearing material, water in oil.

Condensation in motor oil would in extreme conditions would be visible on dip stick and oil would be cloudy and butterscotch colored.
International had gas caps....... BUY CLEAN FUEL KEEP IT CLEAN. Treat diesel in tank with algae treatment/water remover and keep tank full to reduce condensation.
Stories to share, engines with neglected oil changes loose detergents and oil turns to sludge that sets up like grease that will not even run out of a drain from funeral hearses and low speed vehicles.
WVU semi trucks oil pans rusted through with water condensation from non operation and failure to check oil contamination.
Best thing to do is exercise truck to obtain full operating temperature long enough to clear moisture and use good oil. Mark

5tonman1971 said:

Yes deffintly change all fluid and filters as soon as you get your truck. You never know how long it has sat and how much water has gotten in everything.

you can get filters from amazon but it's a gamble you never know how old the filters are. You don't really want to skimp in this area of the truck. Using behr paint is a way to save money. Buying cheap filters and air dryer parts will only cost you more money down the road. Atleast at napa you know your getting quality products that will last.

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So maybe you can tell me how the $144 Haldex air dryer kit(DQ6026) that is sold at Napa, differs from the Haldex air dryer kit(DQ6026) I purchased online for $128 shipped. Maybe I just like saving money. I can put that $15 saved towards the Fram oil filter(PH3757) I bought at another local auto parts store for $17. The Napa oil filter(1649) is normally $33.99.

It almost sounds like you work for Napa
Seems like a lot of people on here think Napa is the greatest parts store in existence, but truth be told- I get cheaper prices from another local parts store at least 75% of the time.

I buy my filters from Fleetfilter.com, they sell the NAPA filters and have better prices than my local stores. I usually order a large order to get more of a discount.

Dieseljoe3 said:

Hi all,
I just picked up a nice 5T with a 2009 RRAD. Odometer read 199 miles at pickup, and filters/last service was 2012. I'm on the fence on replacing fluids/filters. Should I? I've seen some discussion on replacing the 10w oil for synthetic...just wondering what is the compelling reason for replacing fluids/filters if there are only a few miles on? Yes, it has been sitting for a while.
Thanks!

Click to expand...

No one has commented on the sometimes less than stellar rebuilds done at RRAD either. A lot of stories posted on here about major part failures within 500 miles of rebuild so changing all the filters would be wise. My truck was rebuilt in Kansas City, which has a slightly better reputation, but the spin on fuel filter was completely clogged and the canister fuel filter was missing. The canister had so much blast media and paint chips in it that the petcock was completely clogged shut.

Any of these trucks should be treated like they have been ridden hard and put away wet. Change the filters, check the fluids in the axles, run down every air, fuel, oil line on the truck to make sure they're not crimped (from either the rebuild or from GL). When you're driving 20k+ pounds of steel down the road a little extra PMCS will give everyone a little peace of mind.

5tonman1971 said:

Yes deffintly change all fluid and filters as soon as you get your truck. You never know how long it has sat and how much water has gotten in everything.

You can get filters from amazon but it's a gamble you never know how old the filters are. You don't really want to skimp in this area of the truck. Using behr paint is a way to save money. Buying cheap filters and air dryer parts will only cost you more money down the road. Atleast at napa you know your getting quality products that will last.

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Or go to the local WIX dealer and cut NAPA out as a middleman , Napa filters are just generic WIX filters.

I have yet another dumb question. Deiseljoe3;Said that he uses 10w 40 for motor oil, My valve cover is marked with 15w 40.I know that 15 is thicker, but which oil should be used? I have also heard that once you use synthetic, you shouldn't go back to standard oil. IS that true?

tbar123 said:

I have yet another dumb question. Deiseljoe3;Said that he uses 10w 40 for motor oil, My valve cover is marked with 15w 40.I know that 15 is thicker, but which oil should be used? I have also heard that once you use synthetic, you shouldn't go back to standard oil. IS that true?

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Shell Rotella 15W40 is what I use and WIX filters everywhere.

i have run Valvolene 15w40 All Fleet Plus oil in my gas and diesel vehicles for 30 years with good service and no dirt or varnish on tear down. One VW diesel with 180,000 miles did not have any wear pattern on the original camshaft lobes.
Lack of oil changes and short trips without time to warm up engine is death on engines. I have seen oil pans with grooves in sludge where rods were cutting paths in the goo.

Switching to high detergent oil from non detergent/ neglected engine will pull sludge to pan, block oil pump screen and cook crankshaft and bearings. I cleaned a oil pan on a flat head Ford and had to take a long screwdriver and drag grit and sludge out of drain plug.You have to be careful flushing old vintage engines . GM V6 engines are really sensitive to sludge and oil screen plugging and keeps my mechanic busy putting in new cranks and bearings.

History says do not mix brands of oil due to possible reactions between the additives. Since oil is now rated and tested, I am not sure that this principle still applies to modern oil. I use one brand anyway.

Synthetic is new to me, it out preforms regular oil in extreme hot and cold conditions but is much more costly. I wonder if the additives are still in top shape at the end of long drain intervals of 15,000 miles.
I see synthetic/ regular oil blended by several companies for sale. That would cause me to not worry about switching from regular to synthetic to regular, but I would figure out the best oil for the truck use and keep with it.

I run one oil Valvolene All Fleet Plus in vehicles and run synthetic oil in generators, mowers, and chain saws due to extreme conditions that air cooled engines run in. Stihl synthetic chain saw oil runs cleanly without a visible blue cloud of exhaust. Hope this helps from my experience, college agricultural motors courses, and watching others mistakes and abuse of their equipment.

mkcoen, I totally agree. So far I've been hitting the big obvious flaws such as the ABS light on steady (bad module on Right rear axle), and a class III leak on an oil line leading to the cooler, but haven't yet begun to dig in deep and do my own services. Not to worry, I haven't put many miles on yet, and plan on doing a complete OCD pick-thru as soon as possible. I do keep hearing that Napa is the "gold standard" for filters, but I'm inclined to buy filters that cost less if they perform just as well as the Napa house brand. I noticed a few links on checking the fluids in the axles...a source of concern for me. I know RRAD has to push through so many vehicles that I can see it would be easy for just one major fault to pass thru unnoticed. As for myself, I'm actually looking forward to doing the services and giving the truck some much-needed TLC. By the way, I'm also on the hunt for a good ABS module.

PLM & Plode, thanks, I'll check into those sources.

I do have to say that I have run valvolene in every motor I have ever had . I have never had a problem with bearings,rods,cam,lifters,etc,etc. I use their synthetic in my pick up. Yes it is very pricey but well worth it. I plan on keeping this truck until I'm .......well dead! Which I hope is a very long time from now!

plode said:

So maybe you can tell me how the $144 Haldex air dryer kit(DQ6026) that is sold at Napa, differs from the Haldex air dryer kit(DQ6026) I purchased online for $128 shipped. Maybe I just like saving money. I can put that $15 saved towards the Fram oil filter(PH3757) I bought at another local auto parts store for $17. The Napa oil filter(1649) is normally $33.99.

It almost sounds like you work for Napa
Seems like a lot of people on here think Napa is the greatest parts store in existence, but truth be told- I get cheaper prices from another local parts store at least 75% of the time.

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Like me I said it's up to you. I do not work for napa. I'm just not gunna be responsible for telling someone to gamble on Internet parts, just not in my nature to tell someone to go cheap on critical engine parts. I'm glad you like to save money, who Dosent like to save money. But I like to have quality parts that I know will last and protect my investment. Yea you saved 15$ on the air dryer but you got lucky that the filters where not soaked with condensation and that the rubber seals wernt dry rotted. Like I said you never know how long a part has been sitting or how it was stored when you buy from amazon or eBay. That's just my opinion which everyone is entitled to. So you can stop acting like I was personally attacking you for stating my opinion.


Just a little FYI on fram filters, they are cheap Becuase the use paper gaskets and other cardboard parts in the filters. I'm not gunna trust paper and cardboard to protect my engine. Again this is just my opinion.

If there is any doubt about the quality of the lubricants or filters in your truck you need to change it, oil is pretty cheap along with filters especially when you look at what COULD happen, That is not so cheap! And this way you KNOW what you have in the truck and it gets rid of all doubt!
KK

5tonman you are right, and that does have me thinking in the right direction. Personally I'm so accustomed to stopping by a shop for my personal auto oil change, that I don't give much thought to changing fluids/filters every 3 months or 3,000 miles...it is just second nature. However, I'm just taking a second look at the filters because of the cost involved. Yes, you are right that an expensive filter is cheaper than a ruined engine. Now it has me thinking about performance vs. price. Surely someone has already invented that wheel, but I'm going to take a look around and see what the comparisons are. I'll look at microns vs. microns, paper vs. fiber, branded vs. generic, etc. At least one thing I learned through the years is that if you value your personal auto in the least bit, never (and I do mean never) allow Wal-Mart to change the oil...guaranteed screw-up 100% of the time. I've never had one good experience with them doing something simple, such as putting in the requested oil weight, or tightening the oil pan drain (yes, that happened). You know what they say, "If you want it done right, do it yourself" seems to be the motto of the day. OK, let me apologize for slamming Wal-Mart...I'm sure they do occasionally get the job done right...just pointing out that they are batting .000 with me. Seriously, they are fine...yep.

Just looking around, I found this comparison of car filters. Pretty interesting, but I'll keep looking for results of truck filters. Link here for the car filter comparisons: http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html