1952 M135 W/Winch

I patched the tube on my son's truck. Did it just like I used to do for regular bike tires. It's been holding air no problems.

Alan

I finally got a chance to look at my carburetor this weekend. It was rebuilt in December, but is still not right. I thought maybe the float was set wrong and that was what was making it flood easy and load up at idle. The truck runs great at highway speeds (I stay around 45 mph), but stumbles and sputters most times at takeoff and acceleration after slowing.

The float was set right, but the bowl still fills too full. Almost overflowing. The float was lowered to see if that would help but the problem was still the same. Checked the needle valve that was in it and it appeared to be fine. I even replaced it with a brand new one and still the problem persists. Is there something else I should be looking at? The float does not leak and my fuel pump is stock military. I also have a fuel filter installed right before the carburetor, so junk should not be getting in it.

I have TM 9-8647 on it's way to the house and I plan on rebuilding some carburetors that I have laying around.


Another issue I am having is a leaking wheel cylinder or two on the driver side front wheel. 12 brand new wheel cylinders on the truck in May. So frustrating sometimes.

I would appreciate any ideas on the carburetor problem. I don't know much about carburetors, but with the new TM coming, I am about to learn. Is it possible there is an internal crack somewhere?

Are you running the stock fuel pump or an aftermarket? Maybe you have too much fuel pressure? Maybe need a pressure regulator?

USMC 00-08 said:

Another issue I am having is a leaking wheel cylinder or two on the driver side front wheel. 12 brand new wheel cylinders on the truck in May. So frustrating sometimes.

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I get it. That IS frustrating.

It's like the Book of Job, or something.

Fuel pressure. I believe it is supposed to be 3.5 pounds Most aftermarket pumps run 7-12. It pushes the needle off the seat. Learned the lesson on my trip accross South Dakota with the M220.

SturmTyger380 said:

Are you running the stock fuel pump or an aftermarket? Maybe you have too much fuel pressure? Maybe need a pressure regulator?

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I have the stock fuel pump but have not checked to see how much pressure it is putting out. I will do that.

Another Ahab said:

I get it. That IS frustrating.

It's like the Book of Job, or something.

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Feels that way sometimes.

hendersond said:

Fuel pressure. I believe it is supposed to be 3.5 pounds Most aftermarket pumps run 7-12. It pushes the needle off the seat. Learned the lesson on my trip accross South Dakota with the M220.

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I will check that. What regulator did you use? I found the Holley 12-804 and was considering that if the pressure from my stock military pump is too high.

On my truck for testing I ran a line from a small gas can to the carb. There should not be much pressure from a gravity feed situation. That way you might could test the theory the pressure was forcing open the valve.

I believe you can run an extra gasket should the Fuel pressure be too high.

but I think the needle valve is either dirty or not sealing correctly- I had this problem, ended up polishing up with some very fine sanding cloth, solved the problem. I also did something else...I think I stretched a spring to give more pressure on the needle.

also is the gasket around the needle valve still there? could be going past the threads

also double check timing, sometimes will give same symptoms if they don't retard/advance correctly

hopefully it is something simple

I think it is something simple. Hopefully the fuel pressure. Will report back as soon as I can.

If you have the stock pump and the bleed holes in the pickup tube are open you are good. Would not hurt to check pressure any way.

Ok. Tested the fuel pressure and it is exactly 4 psi. The TM says the fuel pump pressure is 2.5 - 3 psi. Would 1 psi extra cause the fuel to blow past the needle and flood the bowl?

I have not tried a gravity fed line from a fuel can yet.

Not sure if one psi would cause that. Maybe if the valve spring was weak?

I went and bought some brake line that fit the carb inlet, cut it off and ran a rubber fuel line with a filter to my gas can to test my rebuild. I just left the original line hanging there but disconnected the power to the pump. My tank is a mess.

TM 9-8647 came in today. It goes into a lot of detail on rebuilding our carburetors and governors. I highly recommend buying it if any of you have the chance. Lots of pictures too.

I'll try to scan what is specific to the Holley 885-FFG and post it up here for all of us.

More carburetor kits are on their way so will hopefully start rebuilding the three carburetors laying here...soon.

My brother was in Oklahoma City for the weekend and brought 10 of the 1100X20's off his 5 ton for me to put on the M135's. He put super singles on his M818.

Looks like I have a bunch of tires to break down so I can put them on M135 rims. The work never stops, but I am happy with the tires!


I've still not tackled the carburetor issue yet since I had to make the drive to OKC.

I am starting another carburetor rebuild using the TM. I scanned the Holley 885 FFG Specifications and will scan the rest as I go along to post up for all of us.

Does this PDF show up OK for everyone?

View attachment Holley 885 FFG Specifications.pdf

USMC 00-08 said:

I am starting another carburetor rebuild using the TM. I scanned the Holley 885 FFG Specifications and will scan the rest as I go along to post up for all of us.

Does this PDF show up OK for everyone?

View attachment 575989

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Yeah, that works real fine.

Just need to magnify it as required, but good-to-go!

Finally got around to retrieving my last parts truck. I am guessing that the engine will need rebuilt since the manifolds have been off of it for many years. Part of me cannot decide if I want to turn it into parts or not. It is really straight, but would be a lot of work to put back original. Still contemplating dropping in that 366 V8 with Allison automatic my dad gave me.


This truck really breaks my heart. Only 6000+/- miles on it when it was parked almost 40 years ago. I was told that 40 years ago, this truck looked like new before it was left in the woods.

USMC 00-08 said:

Part of me cannot decide if I want to turn it into parts or not.
View attachment 576981

This truck really breaks my heart. Only 6000+/- miles on it when it was parked almost 40 years ago. I was told that 40 years ago, this truck looked like new before it was left in the woods.

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I had the same thought when I was pulling the cab off the new engine stand frame. The motor, trani, axles, front diff, rad and box were all missing and I retain the thought that I can find this stuff and put it back together .There just aren't enough crazy grease monkeys out there that 'need' to have an Early Deuce so we'll preserve what we can and take pictures of our donor trucks I guess.

We can always encourage anyone that has a historical piece of military to contact their local preservation group, chat with the Steel Soldier kids or simply get some advice on proper mothballing and storage methods.

I keep coming up with more projects than I probably have time or money for. I am seriously considering the 366 V8 engine swap into this parts truck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=890-W_BJSIk

Meanwhile, the carburetor rebuild is coming along nice and the leaking wheel cylinder has been fixed.

Just came back from a 25 mile run and it would be nice to have lower rpm when trying to go fast. The 302 is screaming pretty good even at 50mph so adding 2 pistons should make things a little quieter.....that's the goal right? quiet?

If we drop big blocks in them it will mean that we'd need to pedal them light so we don't wreck other things in the drive-train......unless you happen to have some extra parts laying around and you're trying to get some scary video for us.

While we're on safety, a guy should fit that dual circuit brake system adapter thingy on as well. I'm always tapping the brake pedal just hard enough to feel them, long before intersections. Gotta work hard to time red-lights, strain for long eye-lead time, just be so aware, all the time that it's a single circuit and you 'must' have a B-plan. Having the confidence of split brakes and high maintenance of the brake system, would certainly make driving more relaxing....and quieter.

I can't wait to see what you do!