1952 M135 W/Winch

Yes we can excuse it. I was surprised it worked the other day when I put it in, even though it only worked for a little bit. I may try to take one of the switches apart too and see if they can be fixed.

Does anyone know of any new made low pressure switches that will work in place of these old ones?

Here are the internals of the two low air pressure switches I have. They seem simple. I am going to try to make one good one out of the two.

The one that was originally on my truck is on the top. The one that worked for just a little bit is on the bottom. The next picture is them both disassembled.


The reason air was blowing out of the original one was because there was a hole in the rubber diaphragm.



The one that worked for a little bit appears to have shorted out somehow and the spring was melted in two and part of it was welded to the top connector.


It appears that things work by contacts like this touching each other.


I still need to finish putting the switch together after cleaning up the internals and the Douglass connector ends seem like they need to be tightened. A little more work to do yet. Hopefully these pictures will help any of you who need to fix yours. I would like to see if I can find a replacement rubber diaphragm that will work in these.

Here is a functioning air buzzer cleaned up and primed.

When had to replace my switch in my M211 the local truck dealer had a new style in stock .I thought I might need one that could handle 24 volt in stead of 12 volts no problems it's been in about 10 years . I have seem them on Ebay also .

topo... could you tell me a part number for the one you have? I would like to add it to our parts list that we are making to post up for everyone as soon as it is finished.

There is nothing better than when someone takes something apart and posts enough pictures. Thanks for allowing me to understand something.

Bendix pressure switch # 228750

Thanks topo!!!

More work done on the low air pressure switch and I finally got it to work, until this rubber diaphragm split. The 60 year old rubber is not holding up to 90+ psi.

Anyway, the reason I was not getting voltage to the buzzer was caused by two things.

The top Douglass connector is tightened in place with a small brass nut. That had come loose and was not allowing a connection to be made inside the switch.


Then the spring that is in the switch was welded together from a short happening. This weld would not allow the spring to expand and contract as needed.


Everything worked great until the diaphragm split right as the truck got up to 90 psi or so. I'm going to do some searching to see if there are any rebuild kits for these. If there are not, I am going to use the switch that topo just gave us the number to.

The number to the original switch is Bendix Westinghouse #224052 if anyone wants to help look for rebuild kits.

I have had no luck finding a rebuild kit for the old air pressure switches, so I ordered the Bendix 228750 switch that topo told us about.



It is a lot smaller than I thought it would be. As soon as the wind and snow stops blowing, I will install it.

I installed the air pressure switch today and it is working perfectly. It threaded right into the T fitting that was on the truck.

I had to make these wires to add some length to what was already there since this switch is quite a bit lower than where the original is supposed to be.


Here it is installed. I am going to test it a while before I make it more permanent. You can see the original switch in the background. It will be taken out soon. All of this is under the dash and not visible while sitting in the seats.


I also took the buzzer that failed apart. Here are the internals.


The problem is that the ground wire over on the right hand side burnt up somehow. It looks like an easy fix, so I am going to repair, reassemble and test for function when I get a chance.


A month or so ago I mentioned that a friend of mine built me a good muffler out of the two that I had. I also mentioned that the Army Veteran friend of mine that used to drive these trucks in the service in the 50's said that they used to remove the internals of the muffler immediately upon getting a new G749. I have had some time to test the truck with the "new" muffler on and I have to say, I do not like the way the truck runs with it. It is not as powerful as before.

My next plan is to weld an end on the hollow muffler that was left from my friend rebuilding the one and to install it to see if the truck runs better that way. The Army Veteran friend of mine said that the truck would not be noticeably louder with the muffler internals gone but would run better.

We took the kids to visit my parents for spring break and while out there, my dad told me he had found some M135's that I might be able to buy some parts off of. We got ahold of the owner and went to look. I ended up buying the mirrors off of this truck and the man gave me the gas can.


Hidden behind the building was this M135. Someone did a good job modifying the bed. The hardtop looked really good too. I don't know if it is something someone made or if it is a military hardtop. This truck also had a rubber piece around the shift tower. I am going to try to duplicate it for mine.


The truck that I got the mirrors off of had these marking on the front bumper. The picture on the left says "ATC AD". Middle pic say "HQ68". Any idea what they stand for? I also saw these marking on the glove box. "Speed limit on post 25" "Off post 40". Hard to read but I had never seen a truck with it before.

I wonder what 10-57 means on the tag next to the glove box? The handle on the glove box looks different too.

Good ol' GMC just kept on truckin'.

That is a strange tag. It looks like Miles 33 under that.

@*%$&!&% Duplicate!

Did you see the words on the dash say. Speed limit on and off post. Cool!

USMC 00-08 said:

Hidden behind the building was this M135. Someone did a good job modifying the bed. The hardtop looked really good too. I don't know if it is something someone made or if it is a military hardtop. This truck also had a rubber piece around the shift tower. I am going to try to duplicate it for mine.


The truck that I got the mirrors off of had these marking on the front bumper. The picture on the left says "ATC AD". Middle pic say "HQ68". Any idea what they stand for? I also saw these marking on the glove box. "Speed limit on post 25" "Off post 40". Hard to read but I had never seen a truck with it before.

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That's a real nice find.

I bet you CARNAC could tell you what the unit markings mean. Man knows d*** near EVERYTHING I do believe.

Wonder if he's following the thread here:

Rangoon to CARNAC.
Rangoon to CARNAC.
Do you read me, CARNAC?

m1010plowboy said:

I wonder what 10-57 means on the tag next to the glove box? The handle on the glove box looks different too.

Good ol' GMC just kept on truckin'.

Click to expand...

That is a rebuild tag. One of my parts trucks has one similar.

SturmTyger380 said:

Speed limit on and off post. Cool!

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Yeah. I thought that was neat too. I'll probably duplicate that on mine. I guess these are supposed to be driven at 40 not 58.

Here are the data plates for those two trucks. The one from the front of the building is on the left.

I noticed today that I am developing an exhaust leak where the intake and exhaust manifold bolts together. So it looks like it is time to replace all of the gaskets involved with that.

Does anyone have a part number for the alignment sleeves? Any tips you can offer? I am going by the manual if no one has a better way.

Would a leak in this area affect engine performance? Something is not quite right. Now that it is warming up, I will hopefully be back to working on things.

Do you mean the sleeves that go between the head and intake manifold

Yes

I found these....

http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/gmc-intake-manifold-alignment-sleeves-248h-270h-and-302-ci-6-cylinder-1950-1959.html

I know with out them the gasket seals for a short time and then starts sucking in air I found this out on a Chevrolet 216 years ago . I had no idea new ones could be found .