Connected my MEP-803A the proper way as my home standby generator... Install pics...

4Rider said:

Hi Glockfan,
was thinking on extending the exhaust on my MEP-803A. Can you post pictures of your stack?

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All you need is black iron pipe (believe its 1.25" from memory) and a black iron union with female threads on both sides. Just acts as a coupler, you then run whatever height pipe you want. A lot of guys run tractor flaps on the top after that.

Here's mine:

Thank you for the picture of your exhaust stack Zed254. I am thinking 45 degree adaptor to bring the stack a bit on the side as I am planning to put a roof over the gen set. Any thoughts And suggestions?

Any suggestions on using top 3/8” withdraw port on transfer tank to connect to my MEP-803A?
I am having a hard time finding 3/8” male NPT 90 degree adapter with tube online.

4Rider said:

Thank you for the picture of your exhaust stack Zed254. I am thinking 45 degree adaptor to bring the stack a bit on the side as I am planning to put a roof over the gen set. Any thoughts And suggestions?

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Should work well as long as you don't have too many fittings in exhaust and the pipe is short. I've got mine elevated because of the heavy, wet snow we sometimes get in VA. I recall some sales units - out of Columbus, OH I think - that had a 90 degree fitting on the exhaust pipe, a short length of pipe to get to side of generator, and a "90 degree fitting turned UP".... I suspect they were located in a tight spot while in use by the military.

Extra fittings will cause flow restrictions so minimize those. Also, as you extend the length of this pipe you need to support it...and your generator vibrates. There are flex connections that can be used to go through a roof or to reduce downstream pipe vibration. My exhaust pipe is too short to be affected by machine vibration.

4Rider said:

Any suggestions on using top 3/8” withdraw port on transfer tank to connect to my MEP-803A?
I am having a hard time finding 3/8” male NPT 90 degree adapter with tube online.

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This might work: https://www.wholesalemarine.com/moeller-marine-fuel-pick-up-tube-79134.html . Says fitting is 1/4" male pipe so you will need a bushing to install the assembly. If you go with a polymer tube that is not Nylon check diesel fuel compatibility.

I have about 10' of pipe on my exhaust to get it out of where it is. I used a flex pipe to make sure vibration didn't go through the whole thing. I used 45 degree fittings where I could instead of 90s and did a drip leg and heat wrap on the whole thing. It worked out good. To tight in there to get good pictures though.

Zed the ones sold out of Columbus where turned back up into the open air for some reason. I went to just about every preview down there and every one of those I saw the engine was locked up from water getting in them. They had enough pipe to get back over the fan outlet on top of the radiator and then 90 to the sky. Never did figure out what they were using them for.

I am a retired electrician. The code says this about the ground but I disagree. And so does a generator company I have worked with. We had many generators taken out by lightning because of this code requirement. I connected the neutral to the ground at the genset on my own unit. So far lightning strikes have not damaged it.

Please forgive me. I am an old fellow. What are you talking about.

Guyfang said:

Please forgive me. I am an old fellow. What are you talking about.

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sorry, some how my post went to your page by mistake. Disregard.

Try and find a farm co-op somewhere that’ll deliver red diesel to you. That’s untaxed farm diesel it’ll be cheaper on you. Open your circuit breaker box and explain how you hooked up your manual transfer switch I’d like to see that. Good luck with it

Glockfan said:

I tend to overcomplicate things... Something as simple as an LED nightlight would suffice and I never thought about doing that.

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You should ask your power company to replace the meter with the new digital readers. Some also have red LEDs. Utility power off and the digital meter will be blank.

quartermeter said:

Try and find a farm co-op somewhere that’ll deliver red diesel to you. That’s untaxed farm diesel it’ll be cheaper on you. Open your circuit breaker box and explain how you hooked up your manual transfer switch I’d like to see that. Good luck with it

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What manufacturer breaker box do you have? Can find install instructions online based on that. If you can provide the make, I can help show you manual breakout options made to fit.

Any concerns that the unit is not bolted to the platform? Could it "walk" or move during operation?

I have never had one walk around on a concrete pad but I used a stall mat from the local farm supply to make isolation pads to go under the skids I also used pieces between the skid and lift rings to remove the vibration rattle noise from them.

When a 803A walks, you need to check the "Rubber Baby Buggy Bouncers, (vibration mounts) to see if they are cracked or broken. I once found a totally un repairable, (at our level of maintenance) 803A that had broken 3 of 4 vibration mounts. The movement of the fan caused the engine to shift to the right. The engine wound up on the battery, more or less. The vibrations of the still running engine, wore a hole in the Optima Red Top battery. At some point in time, the engine came into contact to the guts of the battery, with the predictable results. Arc welding 101.

One other reason the 803A walks is when the main gen is not mounted to the Engine coupling plate.

Could someone snap a picture of the neutral-ground bond? I am hooked up 4 wire to the house and want to make sure i am disconnecting the correct part.

You are talking about in the genset? Its the little rectangular bar at the lower right corner of the lug panel.

Bottom right corner. attached by 2 small nuts. You can just loosen and swing it out of the way.

RTB