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Thread: Coolant Flushing

  1. #11
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    Cattlerepairman thanks for the info. I have many more 2.5 and 5 ton trucks that will need TLC so ill try the kitchen cleaner next truck. I bought trucks in 2005 thinking I would jump in and get playing with them. That took till retirement to do which is now. I started and drove three today it was a blast.
    Last edited by Larry Weibert; 11-14-2018 at 21:14.

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  3. #12
    4 Star General frank8003's Avatar
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    That coolant stop valve valve down near the generator to be stock would be this one.
    valve IMG_3425.jpg
    I was here, had a good time.

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    3 Star General aleigh's Avatar
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    I dunno that I would trust an oil filter to do the job of a coolant filter in general. There are purpose-built coolant filters (which are also cheap) and they have media designed for the application. Maybe that particular Mobil filter does work well as frank8003 noted but I'd be concerned about the media in the filter having some kind of problem in a water application... shedding the media or jamming up and bypassing / restricting.
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    4 Star General frank8003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aleigh View Post
    I dunno that I would trust an oil filter to do the job of a coolant filter in general. There are purpose-built coolant filters (which are also cheap) and they have media designed for the application. Maybe that particular Mobil filter does work well as frank8003 noted but I'd be concerned about the media in the filter having some kind of problem in a water application... shedding the media or jamming up and bypassing / restricting.
    The Mobile one was used as Santa could afford only the head for it and the filters were free. Research indicated that particular Mobile flavor filter does not break down in coolant and subsequent filter cut-opens revealed no problems and lots of yuck trapped. Along with the 10 hours labor, valves, hoses and clamps, (my system valves were froze, had to cut them out), it is the cheapest it could be done. Still on the truck working fine. Original research was for the V6 Camaro oil filter whereas aftermarket China filters breakdown and plug the little holes that allow the variable DOHC system to function. It was a lot a research.
    It is assembled so if I ever got a "real" coolant filter head it would be an easy changout.
    Last edited by frank8003; 11-15-2018 at 11:41.
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    3 Star General aleigh's Avatar
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    Implying the threads are different? I've never actually looked. A coolant filter is about 10 bucks, but I hear you, free is free. For others starting from scratch though I just wanted to let them know the option was available.
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  9. #16
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    Dumb question,how critical is changing the coolant? My truck has the same stuff in from eight years ago. The coolant in the radiator filler neck looks fine but the thermostat probably hasn't opened in years.
    Last edited by russojap; 11-15-2018 at 19:30.

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    4 Star General rustystud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by russojap View Post
    Dumb question,how critical is changing the coolant? My truck has the same stuff in from eight years ago. The coolant in the radiator filler neck looks fine but the thermostat probably hasn't opened in years.
    Get a tester. What happens is the chemicals in the coolant breaks down and then it will no longer work as it should, ie: keeping the engine cool in summer and keeping it from freezing in winter. Also the additives help in stopping rust formations.
    A cheap tester will work OK for this test. Or you can buy a $100.00 tester that will show you the actual working temp for the coolant.

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    3 Star General aleigh's Avatar
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    The little bulb tester things (which are just hydrometers) measure the specific gravity of the coolant. As the specific gravity rises the freezing point drops. What those don't measure for is how acidic the coolant is, and it can become so after time. Coolant ph is a whole thing in and of itself. If it's wrong, you can get galvanic corrosion, of all things. There are also other additives that get used up (like nitrite).

    There are places that will test coolant just like oil. Someone else would have to chime in how important SCA additive packages are for the early deuce engines but they are indicated for the later engines like the cats. You want anything that meets ASTM D-6210.
    M1078, M1082, M101A1, M103A3

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  14. #19
    4 Star General rustystud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aleigh View Post
    The little bulb tester things (which are just hydrometers) measure the specific gravity of the coolant. As the specific gravity rises the freezing point drops. What those don't measure for is how acidic the coolant is, and it can become so after time. Coolant ph is a whole thing in and of itself. If it's wrong, you can get galvanic corrosion, of all things. There are also other additives that get used up (like nitrite).

    There are places that will test coolant just like oil. Someone else would have to chime in how important SCA additive packages are for the early deuce engines but they are indicated for the later engines like the cats. You want anything that meets ASTM D-6210.

    You can buy the "test strips" that check for acidic, and nitrite levels. We tested all our vehicles at the transit agency every oil change. Most people don't need to be concerned with nitrite levels or really acidic levels if they change out their ant-freeze every two years like your suppose to. Our busses had over 40 gallons of coolant in them, so for us that meant a considerable amount of money to change out the coolant in over 4,000 busses ! We would add "Nalcool" and other additives to keep the coolant "fresh" throughout the years. Then every six years the coolant was changed out.

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