• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

NV4500 install in stock M1028?

Corvette1974

Member
493
1
18
Location
Upper Black Eddy, PA
Got the NV, the journey went smooth. This thing is a beast of a unit, way more beefy in person then the mental image you get online.

I crawled underneath and it looks like the front driveshaft will clear, but will probably have two inches of clearance. Probably good enough not to hit.

Let me know your thoughts.

Will
 

Corvette1974

Member
493
1
18
Location
Upper Black Eddy, PA
Ill give you a tip. Dont lift and move it by yourself. I have the back surgery to prove it
I hear that! My back already has problems from work....I enlisted the help of my dad. Not too bad with two guys.

Also I was thinking, worst case, could I use a set of these to give a little more clearance at the front, without compromising the OEM ride/handling/wear characteristics?

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero Rates.htm

It seems these would be the perfect solution. A 1 inch lift would barely be noticeable, but would probably add a little clearance.

Any thoughts?

Will
 

Corvette1974

Member
493
1
18
Location
Upper Black Eddy, PA
I dont see a problem with it. Dont know much about those though

I think they might be my solution. It shouldn't hit even just stock, but the clearance will be tight as I have heard. I'm talking 1-2" unflexed, throw some articulation in there and it might hit the slave. For the price and seemingly "Zero-con" install, it looks like the zero rate blocks may be a good choice.

This thread here inspired me, and although my truck is 100% stock, even down to tire size, I think if I did the zero rate blocks, it would still look stock, and probably account for any spring sag that has happened.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?87203-M1028-Small-Lift-Build

All I need for the swap is the bellhousing, fluids, bolts, steel to make the crossmember and a new mount, and another CUCV starter. I need the starter because I don't want to grind my original starter if I need to and if I'd ever switch back (which would only be in a moment of insanity!)

Some backstory on the trans according to the breaker yard - Local hospital had a 6.5 K3500 bucket truck. Only used it to change lightbulbs, and just due to age the scrapped it. 19,000 miles on the truck/trans, with the PTO and hydraulic pump still attached (hydraulic winch in the future?)

To anyone reading this, once the install starts, I'm going to document it for the benefit of the forum so check back. I'll start the project once it isn't 12 degrees out everyday.

Will
 
Last edited:

Corvette1974

Member
493
1
18
Location
Upper Black Eddy, PA
Ok so I think I'm going to order the slave cylinder bracket from Advance Adapters. If that works, I'll order their bell. If it doesn't, then I'll just return it and use stock GM stuff.

Will
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
AFAIK the advance adapter Bellhousing is for gassers. It will bolt to a 6.2 but I believe the diesel starter will not clear as the nose it bigger.
You don't need to build a new crossmember. Just make a 2 inch spacer for under the tranny mount. See my swap thread.
Looking back, I would have went with a 96+ setup as that would have made a future Cummins swap much easier.
 

Corvette1974

Member
493
1
18
Location
Upper Black Eddy, PA
AFAIK the advance adapter Bellhousing is for gassers. It will bolt to a 6.2 but I believe the diesel starter will not clear as the nose it bigger.
You don't need to build a new crossmember. Just make a 2 inch spacer for under the tranny mount. See my swap thread.
Looking back, I would have went with a 96+ setup as that would have made a future Cummins swap much easier.
Thanks for making your build thread, it is what inspired me to go this route! I am never planning on doing a Cummins swap with this truck, maybe another so I'm not really worried about my choice of trans.

I realize the crossmember doesn't need to be replaced....but I kinda just want to make a sweet box steel unit (I just got my own welder so I'm jonesing to use it!) to replace the stamped one. But who knows maybe I'll just add the spacer.

The starter nosecone issue is one of my biggest so far. It seems if you go stock, you have to grind the starter but then you have clearance issues with the front driveshaft. If you go aftermarket, you need to grind the bellhousing out, personally I'd rather grind a bell than my starter.

Will
 

Corvette1974

Member
493
1
18
Location
Upper Black Eddy, PA
Good News! The swap has been completed for about three months now and it is amazing. Truck is a whole new animal. I'll post up more later....also will be able to answer questions for people who want to do the swap.

Will
 

KtK

New member
19
0
0
Location
Streetsboro, Ohio
I know this is an old thread, but I'm just trying to clear things up before I tear my truck apart to do this swap. What clutch/flywheel combo did you guys run?
 

Corvette1974

Member
493
1
18
Location
Upper Black Eddy, PA
Update! Sorry that it has been years since this post was started, I wanted to wait until the swap was "proven" before I go spewing nonsense and causing trouble for people. I have had to make some minor changes since the install, but overall it has been flawless so far. I will make an actual update that details the parts, work and install requirements at some point soon.

-Will
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Update! Sorry that it has been years since this post was started, I wanted to wait until the swap was "proven" before I go spewing nonsense and causing trouble for people. I have had to make some minor changes since the install, but overall it has been flawless so far. I will make an actual update that details the parts, work and install requirements at some point soon.

-Will
Do you have an update? I am getting ready to do this swap in an M1008 base truck, but I've ditched the seized 6.2 in favor of a 292 inline six, and ditched the stock axle in favor of 4:10 geared cab and chassis dually axles. Mostly I want to see if you kept the external passenger slave GM housing, and what you did suspension wise. I'm trying to mentally prepare for any setbacks that may require extra funds. Thanks in advance.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks