Just purchased my 2nd MV...M38A1

Maverick1701 · Jan 19, 2015

finally got around to installing the water pump. It was a BEAUTIFUL day.

The old pump was gross as was the cooling system. Once I get everything back together I am going to have to flush the cooling system several times (based on the way everything looks).

I installed the new pump and the pulley sets about 1/4in too far forward ARGH!!! (apparently it is a fairly common issue) I am going to see if a local machine shop can press the pulley further down on the shaft....we shall see.

Maverick1701 · Jan 29, 2015

I think I got it all figured out. Crisis averted.
I am waiting on parts. They shipped out today (like a week after I placed my order)

both rad hoses, bypass house are in the mail.
Once they arrive I will finally be able to finish out my water pump swap.

Amer-team · Jan 30, 2015

Here is a tip for parts, the jeep parts were fairly interchangeable for a number of years, so when you go to the parts store, tell them you have a 72 jeep with 4 cylinder. They will have that in their book. The 24v parts you will still most likely need to go to a specialty dealer. When you tell then you have a 53 they will have a stroke. Looks like you have the smoke problem figured out, but most of the time it is the ring setting up after sitting for so long. The more you run it the better off it will be. My jeep sat for 10 years before I got it. We took batteries, fuel, towed it for a couple of blocks, it started up and I drove it home. But it smoked like crazy for the first few miles.

For all aghast at this recovery method, this was 28 years ago. Things were different then.

Another Ahab · Jan 30, 2015

Amer-team said:
Here is a tip for parts, the jeep parts were fairly interchangeable for a number of years, so when you go to the parts store, tell them you have a 72 jeep with 4 cylinder. They will have that in their book. The 24v parts you will still most likely need to go to a specialty dealer. When you tell then you have a 53 they will have a stroke. Looks like you have the smoke problem figured out, but most of the time it is the ring setting up after sitting for so long. The more you run it the better off it will be. My jeep sat for 10 years before I got it. We took batteries, fuel, towed it for a couple of blocks, it started up and I drove it home. But it smoked like crazy for the first few miles.

Guessing a vintage (WWII) Willys and they will drop flat out dead.

That about right?

Amer-team · Jan 30, 2015

maverick, there may be a slight off set difference between your old pulley and the new one. You might look at that and have the pulleys changed. Also if you have the pump off try to hose out any junk that you can while it is opened up. Radiator too!

Ahab, if you tell them you have a WW2, they go into convulsions telling you why they can't help you out, so I just say it is a 65 CJ5 depending on the part that I need, or call up some of our good MV suppliers that actually know what you are talking about when you call. Especially on the M38A1, except for the 24v electrical, it is almost identical to its civilian counter part.

Another Ahab · Jan 30, 2015

Amer-team said:
Ahab, if you tell them you have a WW2, they go into convulsions telling you why they can't help you out, so I just say it is a 65 CJ5 depending on the part that I need, or call up some of our good MV suppliers that actually know what you are talking about when you call. Especially on the M38A1, except for the 24v electrical, it is almost identical to its civilian counter part.

Thanks Amer-Team:

- Kind of "screwed-the-pooch" so to speak with my Deuce plan (still some lingering pain).

- Thought a Mule might be the cure, but title of "most expensive MV" steers me wide.

- Drifting toward a Willys.....

No cure, and doctors all say it's only a matter of time

Amer-team · Jan 30, 2015

My dad got an M38A1 surplus in about 1967 plus or minus a bit and I was hooked. Got my first MV, M38A1 29 years ago and have had it ever since. It started with me with 4800 miles and now has a little over 12,000. They are a good solid dependable easy maintenance MV. Someone on here said something about more comfortable? They are definitely better than a WW2 but they are still a jeep.

saddamsnightmare · Feb 1, 2015

February 1st, 2015.

Maverick1701:

From my experience at working on GM 567 locomotive engines, I do believe that carburetor's are a lot easier to work on then diesel injection systems! And, did you pull and re-ring the pistons after honing the cylinders? I can't imagine running a stuck engine without going in and checking the condition of the bores, yet you do have her running. Perhaps it is testimony to the M38A's ability to come back from the dead, and I have done it with Model "T" Ford engines, but I always took those apart and overhauled them before returning them to service, as I really hate surprises (like a blown engine on the highway in the middle of nowhere)!
Good luck in any case, you were very lucky to find a relatively unmolested M38A! :beer:

N.B. Where is Memphis,TX? If you are near Clarksville, TX, Curtis Weemes who runs a large truck garage there is an expert on M35A2's, and would probably be a useful backup for any major repairs on the M38A as he was a motorpool mechanic in the Army in 'Nam and does really great work at a really reasonable price.

Maverick1701 · Apr 4, 2015

saddamsnightmare said:
February 1st, 2015.

Maverick1701:

From my experience at working on GM 567 locomotive engines, I do believe that carburetor's are a lot easier to work on then diesel injection systems! And, did you pull and re-ring the pistons after honing the cylinders? I can't imagine running a stuck engine without going in and checking the condition of the bores, yet you do have her running. Perhaps it is testimony to the M38A's ability to come back from the dead, and I have done it with Model "T" Ford engines, but I always took those apart and overhauled them before returning them to service, as I really hate surprises (like a blown engine on the highway in the middle of nowhere)!
Good luck in any case, you were very lucky to find a relatively unmolested M38A!

N.B. Where is Memphis,TX? If you are near Clarksville, TX, Curtis Weemes who runs a large truck garage there is an expert on M35A2's, and would probably be a useful backup for any major repairs on the M38A as he was a motorpool mechanic in the Army in 'Nam and does really great work at a really reasonable price.

I didn't hone the cylinders whatsoever. I just soaked them before turning over the motor.

Memphis, TX is in the south-east tx panhandle. If you draw a line (lets call it US287) from wichita falls to Amarillo, we are right in the middle. In the middle of nowhere.

Maverick1701 · Apr 4, 2015

still going strong on the Jeep. I have flushed my cooling system on and off for about two weeks. The fluid is FINALLY coming out clear-ish vs the green/brown gunk I was seeing at first.

today I put the Jeep up on jack stands and started tearing in to the brake system. I am having a bear of a time getting one two brake drum screws. I am currently soaking in PB blaster and will go at it w/an impact screwdriver once the PB has a chance to soak in. I will report back w/the results.

Maverick1701 · Apr 4, 2015

Just pulled the last drum. the impact screwdriver performed flawlessly and made short work of the rusted drum screws (previously attempts at this project had failed due me trying to use a normal screw driver on these screws. Even after soaking in PB blaster)

the rear two drums came off relatively easily.

the two front drums were much much more obstinate. I just finished pulling the last drum about 10min ago.

The whole process (jacking up jeep, removing tires, pulling drums, etc) took right at 5hrs. It was not as bad as I was expecting. I was planning on several days of PB blaster and hammering...the jeep had been sitting for the past 12 years after all. Thank god for PB blaster and big hammers.

The next step is to replace the brakes. I am going to do pads and springs since I do not know how long ago the springs were changed (if ever), new wheel cylinders, and possibly a new master cylinder (depending on how it looks upon inspection).

clinto · Apr 4, 2015

I think if I was going to do all that, I'd go ahead and go whole hog and do the steel brake lines as well. They're 60+ years old and reasonably cheap. No point in going this far and trying to reuse an ancient steel line and have it split.

You can use a pressure bleeder to do the brakes in the Jeep just like you do in the deuce, so you can share the same fluid as well.

Maverick1701 · Apr 4, 2015

clinto said:
I think if I was going to do all that, I'd go ahead and go whole hog and do the steel brake lines as well. They're 60+ years old and reasonably cheap. No point in going this far and trying to reuse an ancient steel line and have it split.

You can use a pressure bleeder to do the brakes in the Jeep just like you do in the deuce, so you can share the same fluid as well.

thanks for the deuce/jeep tip. That will definitely come in handy!!!

I was on the fence about replacing the steel lines. I have the kit saved on my ebay watch list I just have not pulled the trigger...yet. The kit is fairly cheap at $70-ish bucks. For that price I guess I might as well. You talked me in to it...dang peer pressure hahaha

Maverick1701 · Apr 4, 2015

I noticed the sun setting and realized I only had so much daylight remaining. I ran outside and drained the front diff. The fluid was pretty gross but I did not see any water contamination which was good news. Also all of my gear teeth look to be in super good shape.

I had a little trouble getting the old gasket cleaned off. I ended up using a drill wire brush to get the mating surfaces all clean and pretty. After cleaning I installed the new gasket and buttoned everything back up. Tomorrow I will add fluid.

Amer-team · Apr 5, 2015

another tip if you haven't done it already, the wheel cylinders. Think they are 1 inch on front and 3/4 on the rear. Put 1 inch front and back. When it comes to a jeep with stock brakes, every little bit helps. Also if you are doing a complete teardown of the brake system, it might be time to put Silicone brake fluid in it rather than DOT 3. There are several threads on this issue. The silicone brake fluid seems to be better for vehicles that sit around more than normal. It is more expensive, but you have less of a moisture issue. Roll the rubbers back on your existing wheel cylinders and inspect for darkness or rust.

DeetFreek · Apr 5, 2015

I did an entire brake overhaul about a year ago on my '53. Wheel cylinders, shoes, flex lines, master cylinder, shoes and hardware. I was initially going to leave the soft lines alone but noticed that there was some splitting in the hoses and figured I'm under there so I may as well replace them. And as for sitting as long as it had, I had no trouble at all with any of the line connections. Could not believe it, didn't have to soak any of them. I had more fun figuring out why I couldn't get the drivers side wheels off.....the old brain wasn't even thinking about left hand threads! I feel the pain on the drum screws as well, I had a couple that were stubborn too.

This was my worst drum! Guess they were trying to get their moneys worth out of it!

Maverick1701 · Apr 5, 2015

Amer-team said:
another tip if you haven't done it already, the wheel cylinders. Think they are 1 inch on front and 3/4 on the rear. Put 1 inch front and back. When it comes to a jeep with stock brakes, every little bit helps. Also if you are doing a complete teardown of the brake system, it might be time to put Silicone brake fluid in it rather than DOT 3. There are several threads on this issue. The silicone brake fluid seems to be better for vehicles that sit around more than normal. It is more expensive, but you have less of a moisture issue. Roll the rubbers back on your existing wheel cylinders and inspect for darkness or rust.

thanks for the tip. I enjoy driving my jeep but I REALLY enjoy stopping my Jeep hahaha. Just to clarify...just order 4 front 1in wheel cylinders, right?
I will check out the DOT5 (I am still quite a ways from adding fluid but I will keep it in the back of my mind. I won't EVER turn down free advice.

DeetFreek said:
I did an entire brake overhaul about a year ago on my '53. Wheel cylinders, shoes, flex lines, master cylinder, shoes and hardware. I was initially going to leave the soft lines alone but noticed that there was some splitting in the hoses and figured I'm under there so I may as well replace them. And as for sitting as long as it had, I had no trouble at all with any of the line connections. Could not believe it, didn't have to soak any of them. I had more fun figuring out why I couldn't get the drivers side wheels off.....the old brain wasn't even thinking about left hand threads! I feel the pain on the drum screws as well, I had a couple that were stubborn too.

This was my worst drum! Guess they were trying to get their moneys worth out of it!

WOW that drum is looking a little worse for wear. Mine had a little wear but I am hoping they are machine-able *fingers crossed*.
I am glad to hear you overhaul went easily... I am hoping for similar results.

Maverick1701 · Apr 5, 2015

So far today I drained the rear diff and x-fer case. I have the motor oil draining now. I already replaced the motor oil from the original oil that came w/the Jeep. This oil I added seafoam to thin out the oil in an attempt to deal w/a sticky valve. This is that oil. After all the oil drains I am going to drain the T90.

I knew my jeep had a PTO but never knew much more than that. I cleaned off enough dirt/gunk to read some info. It's an old Koenig PTO. I wish I could say it was an original Ramsey 105A PTO....I would have been SUPER excited!!! When I bought my jeep it came w/a home-made winch plate which leads me to believe that the PO used the PTO w/a PTO winch. But the output shaft drops out right behind the exhaust pipe...so I have no idea how they ran the PTO shaft from pto -> winch.

Anyway I do not know if I am going to keep the PTO or what. I still have not decided.

Maverick1701 · Apr 5, 2015

I drained the transmission earlier and had a nice frosty chocolate milkshake...ugh! Good thing I got all that crap out of there.

Filled the front and rear diffs. Pulled the top of the transmission so I can add fluid and also inspect the innards (Yes I realize there is a fill plug on the side). At this time I realized I bought the wrong fluid. I have to get the right fluid tomorrow when NAPA opens.

Tomorrow I am going to have the local mechanic mic my rotors and see about turning them (if they need it). I do not have any micrometers...so I fail.

Maverick1701 · Apr 5, 2015

Question for all for the T90 experts out there. On my old Ford F350 w/ZF5 trans, you could pull the shifter and add another qt of fluid through the top of the trans. This extra qt really helped quiet the fly-wheel noise (if you had a single mass flywheel) along with several other pros.

Will adding extra fluid in this manner to my T90 have any benefits or just be a waste of fluid? I ask because I am not filling through the side fill plug so I do not know the exact amount for the transmission to be "full" (also I can not see the plug from the top of the transmission to know when to stop filling). I am basing my expected fill amount from M38A1s tabulated data on T90 fluid capacity.

Just purchased my 2nd MV...M38A1

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