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Thread: What have you done to your JEEP today

  1. #361
    Colonel Bravo2Uniform's Avatar
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    Absolutely - my father told me his first canteen, issued to him at Parris Island in 1947 - was made in WWI!
    "Ahh, Bach!"

    ďOh, fine then, if nobody does we donít have to, but make sure we do, just in case we donít.Ē - Colonel Henry Blake, R.I.P.


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  3. #362
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    M38A1-before.pngThis is the before. I just got her last month. Markings are all wrong. Invasion stars on a 1954? Today I pulled the seats, all the brackets, battery trays, instrument panel, dashboard, steering column & gearbox, fenders, hood, grill, all removable floor plates and fuel tank. Unfortunately a previous owner remover/replaced the data plates. There is no serial number on the chassis and the spot above the water pump has no engine number engraved. So, I can not trace her lineage. Therefor she is getting desert tan with black markings and my unit's makings, for my time at Ft. Bliss, TX.

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  5. #363
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    Why cant I see any images when a post says that an image is attached?

  6. #364
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    Today I installed the dash board instrument panel, fuel tank and steering assembly, but I removed the drag link to clean paint and repack. It was missing the dust shields so I bought a rebuild for $18 from www.kaiserwillys.com as long as I was ordering parts the upper seal and bearing on the steering column was also missing. This all started because I wanted new paint and I began removing things to paint. In my shed are the fenders, hood, grill, windshield, seats, and all the little removable plates loops, mounts, etc.

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  8. #365
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    I started today with a m38A1 that would start but idled bad and no power. All 4 spark plug leads sparked 1/4 inch from block only one spark plug would spark. oil and carbon fouled. Dry compression test was 90, 89, 90, 90 psi. Dipped the heads in mineral spirits used a copper cleaning brush from my gun cleaning tools. took 400 grit sand paper to the electrodes, used a propane torch to dry and clean of the film, regaped them at 0.030 inch. All four plugs now developed a spark. Ran the engine until hot then checked the head bolt torque using the pattern in TM 9-8014 pp 115. #4 inside the carburetor throat, 1,2 and 3 are under the rocker assembly. I took off the rocker assembly only to discover that they were the only three with the correct 63 ftlbs of torque (60-65). Got them all torqued. replaced the rocker assembly and set the correct 30 ftlbs of torque then set the valve clearance to 0.018 inch, not one was even close. The carb. gasket was in bad shape. Went to three parts stores. They never heard of a Carter YS. Got back home and was going to try to cut my own. My wive stopped me took the old gasket and my gasket paper and disappeared. Meanwhile I did a wet compression test. Probably should have redone the dry test after setting the value clearance and torquing the head. Squirted oil in each cylinder ran the starter for a while then tested the compression 110, 115, 110, 120 psi. She came back with two perfect gaskets. She scanned the old gasket, put the paper in her computer stencil cutter and made the gaskets. They fit perfect. Put everything back together and started the engine. Idled fast but smooth. Stopped the engine and installed the adapter on #1 plug. Started her up and checked the timing. Could not really see the mark. My wife gave me her florescent orange nail polish and I painted over the mark. This time it stood out like a charm. Mark was a good inch and a half past the #5 line. Loosened the distributor and turned it as far as it would go clockwise. Can not get it to line up with the #5 line but it is only a quarter of an inch south. Engine runs considerably better now. I have new plugs on order. Not perfect but at least the jeep is back on the road.

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  10. #366
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    Not familiar with your engine.
    However, here is standard procedure when you cannot rotate housing enough to adjust timing.
    Remove cap and position out of way.
    Mark where rotor is positioned.
    Mark where body is positioned on block.
    Remove distributor clamp & bolt.
    Lift distributor up until gears disengage.
    Turning rotor 1 tooth against direction of rotation will retard timing.
    Turning rotor 1 tooth in direction of rotation will advance timing.

    Using your marks, you can see how much rotor has moved.
    Turn distributor housing same amount so timing is close to what it was.

    Reassemble and reset timing to specification.

    The octane calculations are different than they were back then.
    Today's 87 gasoline has higher octane than yesteryear's regular.
    Once you have it on the road, and verify the cooling system is in good shape,
    you can advance timing a few degrees past spec, for a bit better fuel economy
    and slightly more power.

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